Alright, so it’s 2AM I can’t sleep and I’ve been in the process of detailing my DA for the last couple of days. I am on a few other boards that have detailing info, but this is where I think we lack here. I know there are a few other members here that are into detailing (one just started his own business) so feel free to chime in. This is going to be a very long, and detailed post, if you don’t understand something feel free to ask. If there is a broken, or wrong link, please let me know. I am going to leave this first post for page references and product links.
I will be posting these detailing items in the order which I usually detail my vehicles (and the vehicles other people have me detail) I use meguiars because that’s what works for me. I order from ADS because they have a “sampler program” where you can order items in small quantities (saving you money, letting you try the product for less inital cost, and getting you the dispenser bottles) always get my orders out the same day, and they have the hands down best customer service I have received from any business anywhere.
Note: I use mostly meguiars products, however if you understand what the product is, or do a very minute amount of research, you can equate these products to the ones you wish to use with your specific brand. I am neither associated with meguiars and/or ADS nor do I get any compensation from them it is just what works best for me, and my methods.
Product List - The Bold Wording/Lettering is how I will refer to the item
I detailed this neon back when my DA was hit. I rented the car from enterprise and they told me “this was the only car they had” after I declined all that extra BS they try to add on. Worst condition ever, hadn’t been washed, had bird poop all over, dusty windows, and dirty interior. I wasn’t doing anything while I had this rental car, so I decided I should show them how the car should really be rented out.
Notes:
You can substitute SuperD for APC+,
you can substitute HD for WBD.
HD 1:1 shiny - 2:1 Less shiny - 3:1 almost looks like 4:1 - 4:1 OEM just bought it
WBD 100% Shiny - 1:1 OEM just bought it
Alright so you are most likely going to start with something like this
Start by warming the car up. 5 mins should do just fine. While the car is warming get all of your tools out, and put your gloves on if you need them.
Take your H2O and spray it liberally around the engine. This the the main reason why I used a spray bottle instead of going for the hose. The method I use, I have never had any problems, and I don’t cover any electronics.
Get your SuperD in a foaming bottle (foaming seems to work best for me) and spray that liberally around the engine compartment. Make sure to get close to target some of the lower hoses, and other engine items.
Take your misc. brushes out. I usually start left to right. Agitate the SuperD. I use the paintbrush for easy to reach areas, and the wheelbrush for the lower harder to reach areas. Finally I use the ADS MF to get anything that seems to be really stubborn. Take your time on this step, your really want to loosen all the dirt you can. Reach down and get your tranny, lower hoses, and anything you can reach down there. If needed, spray more SuperD where needed. If you will not be polishing/waxing after this step, then take extra precautions not to get any SuperD on your fenders other body parts.
Rinse the bay using your H2O in a bottle. Make sure to rinse twice so you don’t leave any degreaser behind to hard the painted areas.
Dry the engine bay, some people do this by turning the engine back on , and then just wiping up any sitting water. For me, it’s easiest to just wipe the whole thing down with my ADS MF.
Liberally spray your HD around the engine compartment make sure to get your lower hoses. Let this set for about 5-10mins, while you are letting this set in wipe down any areas covered by the hood when closed.
Wipe any excess HD off with an ADS MF. (unfortunately I don’t have pictures of the finished neon engine., but here is still what the outcome will be.)
On my washes I start with the wheels/tires and then when I wash the car, I go from the top down, rewashing the wheels/tires.
NOTES:
You can use either Super D or APC+. Super D is stronger so if you feel your wheels are dirtier, then stick to that.
You can substitute HD with WBD, to me WBD 1:1 gives the same results as HD 4:1, I don’t use any shiny dilutions, so I am not sure how HD compares to WBD 100%
Here is what your dirty wheel is going to look like
Start by liberally spraying your wheel well with SuperD, this will give it time to work into the dirt that is stuck up there while you take care of the wheels & tires.
Spray your SuperD in a foaming bottle all over the wheel
Agitate the face, spokes and back of the wheel with your BHWB to loosen dirt. Be creative, use a toothbrush to get hard to reach areas. A wheelbrush will be very helpful here to get to the back of the wheel.
Spray SuperD on the tire to release any dirt within the sidewalls. (As you can see, it’s working)
Agitate the sidewalls with your Tire Brush. once finished rinse the tires and wheels (not the wheel wells) There may still be some browning in the tires, don’t worry.
Re-spray the wheels wells with SuperD and agitate them. Try to reach any suspension parts as well. Long handled brushes work best since they can reach all the way to the back, but fear not, I have a step just before you dress your tires & wheel wells that will give everything a final cleaning.
Rinse your wheel wells with a decently high pressure from your water system to help remove all the dirt (you will see it all dropping from the wheel wells) Give your wheels and tires a second rinse.
Let this air dry, you will be washing the car next, no need to hand dry this yet.
Do not dress the tires yet, we will be dressing them later on.
You may be starting out with something as filthy as this, but don’t fret, there is a solution for you.
Start by pre-treating any tar, sap, bird droppings etc, with your pre-teat. If N/A move to step #2
Next, hose your car down. Do not let the metal tip of the water hose touch your car.
**Note: Some people cut off the tip of the hose, so they don’t have to worry about scratching the car with the metal tip.
Fill one of your buckets with just plain water. Fill the other with the appropriate dilution of soap and water. (Insert Grit Guards, Optional)
[Optional] Fill your foaming gun with the correct dilution of soap/water, spray the foaming soap liberally over the car.
Get your Mitt and 2BM and wash the car. Wash horizontal panels front to back, and vertical panels top to bottom. Start from the top, and work your way to the bottom of the vehicle. After each panel (or when needed) rinse your mitt in the water only bucket, then return he the soap & water bucket for more suds.
**Note, some people use a separate mitt for the upper and lower halves of the vehicle. Do not use the same mitt you use on the body of the car for the underbody, engine, or wheels/tires
After you have finished washing all of the body panels, take your BHWB and dip it in the soap bucket, and give your wheels and tires a final wash. Feel freeto use as much soap and water as needed, you won’t be using this bucket on your car anymore.
Once you feel you have washed every area of the vehicle, rinse your car, once again do not let the metal tip of the hose touch the car.
Inspect for any missed areas. Return to step #4 & #5 if you have missed any wash areas.
Dry the car with your WW. Just as you did in washing start from the top of the vehicle down, wringing the WW as needed to extract excess water.
Use your ADS MF to dry the wheels, and door, hood, trunk, and gas cap crevices. Make sure to use a different MF for the wheels than the door/hood trunk area.
Now you have completed your wash, sit back and enjoy. Here are some before and afters of what just a wash can do.
hey willum,
let me get your number so we can chill whenever im down in la puente.
I was just at boca del rio the other night after work, was looking for people to chill with, lol.
Nice work. Have you tried any of the chemical guys products? I used to use meguiars stuff back in the day. Went from their regular stuff, to the professional/details stuff. Then I came across chemical guys stuff and haven’t looked back.
I have heard of them, but never tried anything. I know there are a ton of great companies out there, but I just seem to be able to use meguiars the easiest, plus I found a supplier in AZ that is great on prices, so no taxes, and I get everything next day.
Make sure that the surface of the paint is clean, if not wash it now. You do not want to clay a dirty car. Also please note that if you drop your clay bar on the floor, or anywhere other than the paint throw it away. Plenty of people have learned this the hard way, don’t be the next person.
Work one panel at a time. Spray your LTD 1:1 over the area you will be working. Make sure to soak the panel you will want plenty of lube for this job.
Open your clay bar package. I usually start with 1/2 of a 50gram bar. And make it into a pancake type shape (make sure it is still about as thick as it came in the package, just slightly skinnier.)
With straight front to back motions move your clay along the paint. At first it may feel like your are claying against sandpaper, but slowly you will feel the paint start to become more smooth. Move to a new part of the panel once you feel it is smooth. This is about half of my hood that I clayed. It is possible to see a brighter color in the paint from this process, however it does not always happen.
Tip by JDM1nt2B - On the hood & trunk lids you go front to back. On the sides of the car you up & down (top & bottom) not front to back. It has to do with the angle that the suns rays hit the paint and reflect off of it.
Once you see about as much dirty coloring in your clay as shown about, kneed the clay and start on the new panel, or part of the panel.
When you are done with a certain section of the panel wipe off the excess LTD with your ADS MF.
After you have completed the whole panel, give that panel a quick spray with LTD 1:1 and give it a final wipe down, then move to your next panel.
You want to clean it, or clean it and protect it? Is there some kind of spill or something wrong, or is this just a normal cleaning? If you just purchased the vehicle, or if the dash is dirty, I would go with a 2 step process, if this is just a normal cleaning I would use an all-in-one cleaner and protectant. Do you want your dash to look glossy or just a natural look to it?
2 Step
APC+ 10:1
Followed by Poorboys Natural Look, or Leather Stuff both found here
AIO Here is what I usually use for my brush-up details. Not Greasy or glossy, just natural look to it.
Tip on the clay bar process. On the hood & trunk lids you go front to back as DA Jellie stated. On the sides of the car you up & down (top & bottom) not front to back. I was told this by a friend that used to sponsor me products (Adam Pitale owner of Adam’s Polishes) It has to do with the angle that the suns rays hit the paint and reflect off of it.
