same here they never worked, my door/headlight buzzer worked for like 2 weeks after i bought my teg then it quit but magically about 1 year ago they started working again, but quit after a week
i nned to replace the stupid ICU but it is on the bottom of my list of priorities right now, but if you guys get an exchange/repair thing going i would be first in the door 
yes
so if your defroster is having a problem that might be why your fogs dont work
thanks… I think
I was hoping that someone else might have had a similar situation. I wish that I would have wired it to the fuse box instead of tapping into the defrost.
did that solder your own shit thing work? whats the update on that project?
[SIZE=7]holla![/SIZE]
sending out one to my first victim on monday. If it works then i’m going to start selling them with 30 day warranties.
You are god. I believe us G2 members were looking for this fix years ago. 
when i get out of my car a few minutes later my foglights come one by them self with the ac control lights and mine is also taped into the rear defrost.
you guys rock. im gonna go pull mine out and see if that doesnt fix it. i was wondering if i could repair it with simple electronics, now this seals the deal.
when i opened mine up, i noticed a lot of different things going on with the board. the capacitors were fine (no bulging, discoloring, or fluid emissions). i did notice some other things though. On D1 (the diode circled in red in the attached picture), the black insulation was broken off and causing it not to be insulated and flow current in both directions. luckily i had a spare ECU i have been using for parts (i chip ecus for obd1 hondas), and i desoldered a small diode of the same value to replace it. this fixed my problem with the oil pressure light coming on. it now only comes on before i start the car like it should. there was also another thing i noticed, the area around the three transistors (Q1,Q2, and Q3 i believe) was burnt and i could see a discharge around the base of the one i have circled in green. i desoldered this component in an attempt to replace it, however it has overheated and destroyed the writing on the back of it. i noticed there were two different transistors around it, one being a 1020, and the other i believe was a 2353? i put it back in since i didn’t know which one to use, however i would like to replace it since my rear defroster, headlight buzzer, and seatbelt indicator still do not function. if anybody could tell me what transistor i need to use for this piece it would make my life a lot easier. thanks!
I gotta try this with my faulty ICU 
Another ICU question
Can I remove the ICU and still drive my car? I was unable to clearly define the burned track by my cap, I want to take it to work to repair it. My TEG is a daily driver.
Thank God somebody on here knows how to work with circuit boards!
This is my next project!
can i get an ICU somewhere? my defroster sometime wont come on, and i keep hearing that open door sound randomly while im driving… :wtf:
I did the fix. dont know if it works yet, waiting for a new motor
has this worked yet? please update this thread!!
it works. it all depends on how badly the cap corroded the paths. my defroster would mess around a lot prior to this and my intermittent wipers didnt work. The defroster problem was fixed but the intermittent wipers still dont work. i believe its cause of the broken paths.
now i can fix it instead of getting a new one
how do you take the icu out?
i dont have any leakage under that capacitor thats posted in the pic, i have leakage and corrosion under the one labeled C8 i believe. its in the top right corner if you’re looking at that 1st pic in the thread.
any thoughts? i do have symptoms, such as no int. wipers, seatbelt beebs, sometimes oil light comes on but its dim…