How to pass SMOG TESTING!

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/local/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=100&TopicID=79026&PagePosition=1&state=CA

Originally posted by shorto85 on Feb/15/04
Ok I see people asking about various things that have to do with smogging their car. I found some great links to help everyone out!

Aftermarket, Performance, and Add-On Parts Regulations - Replacement Parts Guidelines

http://165.235.17.9/STDPAGE.ASP?BODY=/GENINFO/PUBLICATIONS/ENGINE_CHANGE_GUIDELINES-JAN_1994.HTM&LB=NO

CARB Execcutive Number Lookup

CA Referee on a motor swap.

Stories of cars required to be Refereed

Thank you to Cory for the following information:

California Automotive Emission Information

As of August 2002

  1. What does it take to have combustion? (what goes into the combustion chamber)
    a) 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen, 1%Other
    b) Fuel (aka HC)
    c) Ignition (spark)
    d) Compression

  2. What is the Combustion Process Objective?
    Burn ALL of the Fuel (Hydrocarbon or HC) while using up ALL the Oxygen (O).

  3. Five reasons for IMCOMPLETE combustion:
    a) Quench areas due to combustion chamber design
    b) Variations in air/fuel ratio
    c) High combustion temperatures due to engine load
    d) Carbon build up
    e) Engine design

  4. What causes smog to form?
    [HC + Nox + Sunlight] = Smog

  5. Carbon monoxide (CO)
    a) Carbon monoxide is one carbon atom and one oxygen atom
    b) It is measured in percentage (%)
    c) CO forms when there is a SHORTAGE of oxygen
    d) The Higher the CO % the RICHER the mixture
    e) The Lower the CO % the LEANER the mixture

  6. When you get your smog results:
    CO is a good indicator if the system is too RICH but is a poor indicator if the mixture is too LEAN

  7. HYDROCARBONS: (HC)
    a) HC are unburned fuel that passed through the combustion chamber (incomplete combustion)
    b) They are measured in parts per million (PPM)

  8. Oxides of Nitrogen: (NOx)
    a) Oxides of Nitrogen are One Nitrogen atom and a varying oxygen atom
    b) We measure NOx using Parts Per Million (PPM)
    c) NOx is produced at a temperature of 2500 degrees

  9. NOx is controlled by use of:
    a) low compression ratios
    b) camshaft timing
    c) Ignition timing
    d) EGR Systems (not present on an Integra/Civic)
    e) 3-Way converters

  10. Carbon Dioxide: (CO2)
    a) Carbon Dioxide is formed when one Carbon Atom (from HC) bonds with two atoms of oxygen (from O2)
    b) We measure it in percentage (%)
    c) CO2 is produced in two places:
    Low at rich mixtures
    low at lean mixtures
    higest at optimum combustion a/f ratio (14.7:1, stoichiometric)

  11. Oxygen: (O2) a) self explanatory, it is measured in percentage (%)

  12. What is a lean misfire?
    a) It is when there is too much AIR and not enough FUEL present to support combustion!
    b) Little fuel passes through unburnt = High HC
    c) Lowest at rich mixtures, slightly higher at stoichiometric (14.7:1) and highest at lean mixtures

  13. What is a rich mixfire?
    a) When there is to much fuel and not enough oxygen present to support combustion, (will give you high HC and CO from test results)

General Rules that are good to know!

  1. O2, CO, & CO2 Relationships:
    a) High O2, low CO & low CO2 = lean
    b) Low O2, high CO & low CO2 = rich
    c) Low 02, low CO & high CO2 = OK (good)

  2. If the mixture is STOICHIOMETRIC, then the O2, and CO should be very low and about equal

  3. If CO exceeds O2 than the A/F ratio is richer than ideal

  4. If O2 exceeds CO than the A/F ratio is leaner than ideal

  5. When the air/fuel mixture is either rich or lean, the levels of oxygen and carbon monoxide will be opposite one another.

  6. What is Lambda?
    a) ideal a/f = 1.0 lambda
    b) rich a/f = lower numbers (.9 and lower)
    c) lean a/f = higher numbers (1.1 and higher)

  7. What is ideal operating A/F?
    a) ideal = 14.7:1 = stoichiometric = lambda
    b) richer = 13.5:1
    c) lean = 15.5:1

  8. How to check for an internal vacum leak!

    Watch HC, CO and O2 while adding propane to the crankcase. If HC and O2 go down and CO goes up, then you have an internal manifold leak.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

  1. Introduced in CA in 1961 and federally in 1971

  2. Crankcase emissions are responsible for 20% of total emissions!!!

  3. PCV systems reduce and control HC emissions

  4. There are only two types of systems used on today’s cars:
    a) Type 3: Sealed System
    non vented fill cap
    tube to air cleaner
    does not have a PCV valve
    b) Type 4
    non vented filler cap
    PCV Valve (may or may not have)
    tube from air cleaner to valve cover

  5. Operational Modes (ie. On/off, open closed etc etc)
    a) Min. flow: (high engine vacum)
    It is in this state when in idle, low speed and deceleration
    b) Max. flow:
    It is in this mode while cruising
    c) Off/Closed: (“0” engine vacum)
    It is in this mode while Cranking, Starting, WOT and Intake Backfire

  6. Blowby is the gases that escape past piston rings into the crankcase.

  7. If system is failing to operate properly operator will complain of:
    a) If PCV valve stick in the Max. flow position: Will result in Hard starting an rough idle, the engine will be running to lean
    b) If PCV valve sticks in the Off/Closed position:
    Poor fuel mileage and oil in the air cleaner or intake manifold, engine running to rich

  8. On a regular tune up it does not hurt to replace the PCV valve and the PCV inlet filter if applicable (they are only a few dollars in most cases)

  9. To test for excessive fuel in the crankcase resulting from blowby:
    Allow the PCV valve to pull fresh air. If CO decreses by more than 1.0% the crankcase is contaminated with fuel. The owner should change the oil before performing a smog inspection.

  10. If the PCV valve is plugged off the idle rpm should drop 50 rpm if the system was working properly

  11. Will not pass visual if PCV system lines are replaced with heater hose!

  12. Bad things without it working properly:
    a) low engine temps
    b) oil can thicken and sludge prematurely

  13. Breathers: you will not pass visual with one of those pep boys air breathers…I know there is a common topic on it but they do not serve a good pupose and only create a hole in the pcv system and you will not be putting the air back into the car to recycle it…ie you might not even pass the actual test with one on there! And if you do it would not be by much!

I jus had my smog check done and failed, I’m a gross polluter!!! I have stock intake and cat, dc headers and a hks cat back. My timing was 16 degrees BTDC

This is the result:
HC (PPM)
MAX-121 GP-296 MEAS-203 --FAIL

CO (%)
MAX-.76 GP-2.26 MEAS-2.31 --FAIL
This is why I’m gross polluter

NO (PPM)
MAX-807 GP-2014 MEAS-486 --PASS

Couple questions

  1. Do u think the 3 bottles of heet will work for me in dropping the numbers in the CO especially?

  2. do I have to go to a gross polluter station to have them check it out and make it pass for me?

what do this HEET fuel line antifreeze look like??

heet.jpg

ok coo thanx

Wow, 3 bottles of HEET? The directions say one bottle treats 10 gallons. We sure this much is ok? Anyone in CA use this stuff and get through the smog test without causing damage to the car?

I’m about to try 2 bottles in a couple days I failed the NOx by almost 400 so we’ll see if these 2 bottles of heet will work for the NOx.

that stuff never worked for me. i tired rubbing alcohol, heet, retarded timing, all clean fluids, virgin ECU, new cat, new filters. i eventually had to find a guy i could just pay to pass it. i dont know why i fail :dunno:

I just took in my integra with b18 in a 1990 body. HC was reading 78 and 66 is limit. CO% was 0.38 and limit is 0.37, NO ppm was 1917 and limit is 757. I never took the car for any long drives, its been sitting for a couple years and the engine only has around 50,000km on it, high compression on all cylinders like 170-180. Can anyone give me some help here like should I drive it for a bit or something but I got no insurance on it yet cause I need to pass the etest. >_< plz email me at andythengzone@hotmail.com I need some major help on this.

If it’s been sitting for a couple of years, i’d go through the normal maintanance stuff for it. i.e. tune up, oil change and two years is a long time for gasoline to sit in a tank so try to burn it off some and refill the tank.

Wow for me passing emmisions was nothing. i failed due to AEM cam gears. the guy i went to get tested was an ass he opened my valve cover without me looking and saw em and failed me on visual.

Also i dint kno you could fail a smog test by not having a CEL on. mine doesnt even come on when i turn the key to ON positiion maybe dead bulb?
not trying to change this thread i will continue search. but any advice any1?

Could be an old stored code from a previous problem. Try resetting the ECU. As far as the cam gears, wow, i didn’t know those would fail you and i never knew they pulled the valve cover as part of the test. Wild.

I just had my 'teg smogged (they call it IM up here) and it passed even with a wicked bad exhaust leak. Yeah, they’re not very strict up here. I pulled it in and tech asked me if i was getting it IMed, i said yes, then he asked me if i wanted to sell my car. lol.

I’m suprised they opened your valve cover. If your check engine light isn’t working you will fail. it probably isn’t plugged in. or the light is bad.

yea thanks guys. i guess the dude was curious since i had a body kit or watever and the valve cover i got from a junkyard just to hide it, so it doesnt look like it was OE lol. Well thats stilll dumb but next time illl watch and not let him cuz i doubt thats part of smog to open up valve cover even though smog in Cali is a BTH. maybe the last owner had the CEL on all the time and wanted to take it out or maybe the bulb died. so yea if im lucky replacing the bulb will be the easy fix right? THANKs guys

So I just failed my smog… my NO was over like 300 something. I was told by a friend a need a new Cat.

Also, am I supposed to pour in 3 bottles of HEET? Seems like alot since the directions says 1 bottle per 10 gallons. Please help…

WARNING ! A lot of incorrect info with original post !

I’m a smog tech in cali, and I know for a FACT that alcohol does not help that much on a smog ! Let me give you some background.
Back in the 90’s, The EPA came back to Cali, and found that our air quality, in some areas of the state, still did not federal air quality standards. Even after 10 years of smog testing. Now the EPA required Cali do do what is called loaded mode testing, to be able to measure Nox emissions. Wtih the old test we only measured HC & CO directly, and did a EGR Functional. To the state that was good enough to limit Nox emissions. Well they were wrong. With loaded mode testing the vehicle is run on a dyno and loaded like it is climbing a hill. Nox is not really produced if the vehicle is not loaded. So now they can directly measure Nox emissions. O.K. Nox and alcohol. Nox is a gas that is produced under high pressure and high temperature during combustion. Nox is a acronym for Nitrogen OXides. Nitrogen gas, is one the most stable gas in our atmosphere, it comprises approx. 78% of the air you breathe, with oxygen being 21%, and the rest rare gases. To oxidize Nitrogen (combine it with oxygen) takes temps over 2500 deg. and 2500psi.
So you ask how does alcohol fit into all this ? Alcohol burns at a lower temp than gasoline, so it lowers combustion temp overall. When we started doing dyno testing in Cali, the state didn’t really know how high Nox emissions, from vehicles, were going to be. So they set the max levels (or cutpoints, as they call them) high. As they went through a few more years of smog testing they started lowering the cutpoints as they got more and more vehicles tested so they now could get an average. Well some automotive chemical companies got the bright idea if they sold a product that contained alcohol in it, it could lower the combustion temps and produce less Nox. That was great when the Nox cutpoints were still high, it could and very often did work. But now that nearly another 10 years of smog testing have gone by alcohol doesn’t really work that well anymore. Alcohol can lower combustion temps to lower Nox emission, but at the sacrifice of the other gases particularily HC. Lower combustion temps can cause an increase in HC because in lazy combustion chamber design engines (Wedge, Rotaries, valve in block) the fuel will not get heated enough to fully burn. when it doesn’t burn it goes out the ex. valve andhopefully gets reduced in the cat.If not well you fail.
If you look back at the original post’s test results ALL gases went down on the retest, that usually shows a smog tech that preheats the vehicle before the smog test. If it was the alcohol, then just the Nox would be lower. That is a trick a lot of shady smog techs use to make money in repairs. Run a vehicle cold, or barely warm, it fails. Charge the customer $300.00 in repairs, then superheat the cat by revving the engine to 3000 RPM for a few minutes. Then the vehicle passes, with no diagnosis or repairs being done.
The best way to insure you pass is to make sure you do SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE ! With Hondas being so well engineered in the first place there really shouldn’t be any really repairs needed, if you do the maintenance. I get Accord, Civics, and Integras in all the time with 300k on the odo, that pass with no probs. Also if you are doing bolt on mods (CAI, header, exhaust, slight cam timing adj.) don’t be tempted to use anything but the NGK or ND plugs. Platinum, Iridium, multiple electrode, Splitfire, are just marketing ploys. If an engine is not designed with those plugs OEM, a lot of times it can actually cause misfires. If you start bossting it, or running NOS regulary, or have a custom engine build, then run what the manufactuer or builder recommends.
Anyone out there in cali who fails a smog with there Integra for Nox, you were probably sent to a Test Only center. California has a Repair Assistance Program now, that will up to $500.00 in repairs, if you pay a $100.00 copay.
The smog test station should have given a brochure or application for it if you failed. If not you can go to www.autorepair.com or www.smogcheck.ca.gov to get an application. And anyone who has to go to a Test Only Center, if your vehicle fails, and the smog tech tells you to " just go down the street and see my friend he’ll fix it for you." DON’T GO ! IT IS A SCAM ! This guy fails your car (which probably wouldn’t), you go to his friend who charges a buttload of money(for repairs it probably doesn’t need), and the original guy gets a kick back for that referral. Now do you think that original tech really wants your car to pass ? Also, by state law, a tech at a Test Only station cannot refer you to a specific shop for repair.
If anyone wants more info about the repair assistance or repairs to get your car to pass you can email and I’ll get back to you within a couple of days. I own a Test only Station and sometimes I get pretty busy. Good Luck !

Something to note, if you are high on NOx, make sure any restrictors in your tailpipe are removed. I failed nox in my civic last year, and retarded the timing alot, tested again and failed but a little less. Went outside, removed the restriction from my tailpipe (it was an insert in the end of a megan tailpipe to lessen the sound) and it passed.

Actually exhaust restrictions will act as a kinda EGR system by not letting the exhaust fully scavenge from the cylinder. It will leave more exhaust in the cylinder and when a fresh charge comes in some of that charge will be displaced by the exhaust left in the cylinder. That was a trick some manufactuers used in the 70’s when they were trying to figure out how to reduce emissions. Most of the Nox reduction the last poster got was from retarding the timing. Advanced ignition timing will increase Nox because the charge’s flame front will still be expanding as the piston is moving up to TDC, adding to cylinder pressure, because volume is decreasing. Remember best power is actually made when max cylinder pressure occurs approximately 10-12 deg ATDC because of the rod angle. Older, inefficient wedge chamber engines, and early hemis too, had to use a lot of advance to get good power. The reason why is those designs burned the charge slowly, due to lack of charge turbulence. To make sure that max cyl. press. happened at approx 10-12 deg ATDC, you had to start it off really early. Modern 4 valve, pentroof chambers keep their charges very turbulent. The fuel will burn really quickly. When you retard the timing on an engine, cylinder pressure will max out ATDC when the piston is going down, and the volume is going up, so the max cyl. pres. will actually be a lot lower. There are some other physics involved as well, but I won’t get into that.
My point is, instead of band aid fixes to get your car to pass smog, diagnose it and figure out why it’s not passing. It’s not that I’m a green freak, but especially with Hondas, an emission failure is a sign that the engine is not running right. Because early '90 MY B series engines do not have EGR systems (except atuos) a Nox failure is usually lean condition related. Lean means detonation, and @ WFO you can’t hear the little hammers banging on you pistons. It also means you are not getting the best performance either.

Cerberus,
Your post is very informed, but I believe that restrictions at the tailpipe have an effect that differs from what you are describing happening at the cylinder. The numbers pretty much proved it. It didn’t sit well with me either, until I saw the nox go down and I passed. I tested after retarding the timing, and then tested again after removing the baffles from the tailpipe/muffler. Retarding the timing was definitely necessary to improve my score, but removal of the baffles was also of significant help. Band aid fixes are what this thread is all about. We are talking about passing e-check or smog, not what should be done normally. I certainly wouldn’t drive around with my timing completely retarded. Things aren’t always as they first seem. My teg blows smoke when I start it, due to some bad valve seals. Some people might immediately fix that problem. Fact is, I’m keeping it that way, 'cuz I don’t mind a little oil getting into the exhaust guide to cool it off. Not really relevant I know but an example of how having things wrong can be right sometimes.

Let me make that clearer. In other words, yes, you are right, that is why it worked, but it seemed to work a lot more than it should, at least for the 95 1.6 civic, which I believe also did not have an EGR. Perhaps the restriction at the far end of the pipe had a greater effect on the pressure wave and therefore had a greater effect on the scavenging.