The thing about the baffle removal was, how long did it take to remove the remove the baffle and then retest ? You had just had it tested, if it was less than 5 min to remove, then retest, then the test was rerun with the cat already up to operating temp. If your state runs the IM240 test, that gives the cat 4 min. to warm up, and it has been shown that sometimes it superheats a cat. When a cat gets superheated it will be able to reduce emissions more than it will be at normal oper. temp. Also when you remove restrictions from the exhaust, you move more air through the engine. More air means more fuel. More fuel, more heat, and more Nox.
What I meant with band aid fixes is this: If someone has a basically stock engine, with bolt on mods, and those parts were designed correctly, it should not affect the emissions that much. The ECM should be able to retrim the fuel to handle the extra air moving through the motor. If you fail an I/M test with a stock motor, that is a sign that something is not working correctly. Sure it could be just the cat is bad, but if a B series motor is failing for Nox, that is usually a lean condition. Also if the cat is bad, and the vehicle has 150k miles or less, why did the cat go bad ? As I have stated before, I get Hondas in with 300k on the odo with the stock cat. Something has caused that cat to go bad. So it is in your best interest to diagnose it to see what caused the cat go bad. If not only to pass emissions, but to get the best performance from the motor.
Honda engines also use a “Speed Density” type of fuel injection system. With that type, the ECM does not directly measure the volume of air moving through the motor. It uses a MAP sensor to measure plenum pressure. Dependant upon RPM and Absolute pressure, it has a look up table that has a base value Honda engineers have determined is the correct value for volume. FOR A STOCK ENGINE ! Then there are modifiers to that base value to trim the fuel like ambient Baro(air density & altitude),engine temp, air temp, throttle postion and delta(rate of change). When the engine warms up and the O2 is providing a valid signal, the engine goes into closed loop and uses the O2 signal to trim the fuel. This trim, the Long Term Fuel Trim is the most important for people who modify their motors. With this, the ECM is able to compensate for more air moving through the engine. But when people start doing more than bolt on mods (cam changes, porting, valve size chenges), the ECM might not be able to retrim the fuel. That is where a software change is required. You could a throw an adjustable FPR, but that modifies fuel volume indiscrimently across the RPM band. The ECM is only able to retrim the fuel + or - 35%(OBD1 and earler, if I remember right!). If it trims the fuel to it’s limits, and it cannot get the O2 signal back to where it’s programmed to be then it’s supposed to turn on the check engine light for a lean O2 code. Now I have gotten many of cars in for repairs that are tier 0 or OBD1 with a Nox failure. The check engine light was not on, but the O2 signal was fixed at .1-.2v, showing that the engine was running lean. The computer had tried to retrim the fuel, reached the limit, but did not turn on the light. This is were diagnosis is so important.
I have also never heard of any advantage to having a leaky intake valve guide seal. If you pull oil into the intake, it gets burned in the cylinder and you don’t have liquid oil, or atomized oil to lube the ex. valve stem. Older American V8s with low compression, their inherently low airflow velocities through the head, low charge turbulence, and weak secondary voltages, could pass unburned oil through the cylinder at idle and low rpms. But that usually left you with deposits when the unburned oil got heated up and carbonized in the valve pocket and downstream. Carbon deposits are the last thing you want in your engine. It can also get deposited on the O2 and the cat “insulating” them from being exposed to the exhaust. We’re also talking about Honda’s here, these motors are so well engineered in the first place, they don’t need any extra things to keep them reliable.
when adding the HEET fuel line anti freeze where would that be put in? i want to try this.
in the tailpipe along with the muffler bearings 
Yep.
That’s what she said.
Nah, but, what I use to pass smog was just pay the MTF “The MAN” $100. extra aside from the cost.
I’d then just head on over to DMV and pay for the TAGS.
This can still been done if you know someone?
Good luck…dude
my friend said useing heet ruins your car. but on the bottle it says it wont.
As a lane inspector in Colorado, which is not as strict as CA, I can tell you that it can be kinda annoying if someone tries this and then yells at us like we did our jobs wrong.
Sigh
I’ll say this once. If your car fails emissions badly, it means something is SERIOUSLY wrong with the car, the cat, or the any other emission control system. On an pre-1996 car in CO, we pop the hood and check for O2 sensors, catalytic converters, air systems (which Integras don’t have), and whether the engine light is on. Here’s a tip or two as an inspector.
1: If the engine light is on, check it immediately. It may be nothing, but it might be everything. This is NOT a pass or fail item like the O2 Sensors and Catalytic Converters, but it is an indication of what is wrong.
2: Keep the engine burning clean. If a car smokes, it’s our job to fail a vehicle, even if it’s just on startup and just for a bit, or if the car passes the gasses portion of the test.
3: keep your alignment in check. We will usually attempt to drive a vehicle, but sometimes the alignment is too bad to do so. Also, it helps us be able to put the power down more smoothly.
4: Arrive with the car at operating temperature.
5: Hold off on altering the original condition until AFTER the test. In CO, you get 2 years to dial it in perfectly.
6: Make sure you retain the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors.
- If it’s possible, try going through a roadside emissions station (I.E. van with remote sensing.) They don’t check under the hood that way.
8.Injector cleaner, heet, and other products do work for certain things, but don’t expect miracles. Instead, try keeping the engine warm and come in at non-busy times to make sure it stays that way.
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REGULAR MAINTENANCE.
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Know a reliable mechanic. There’s a list in the booklets we give you in CO that has reliable mechanics. If you need a new cat, make sure it passes regulations.
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NEVER hollow a cat and expect it to pass emissions. It just doesn’t work.
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Raise your “slammed” car up. We aren’t liable for any damage incurred 'cuz your car is too low, but most of the time, we’ll just refuse to test it.
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A good attitude helps. Remember, we do this for our JOB, don’t take it personally. Our job is to test cars. It’s the government’s job to make up the rules.
4 year old post???
X2 haha. But good info.
Hey, now. I assume that anything in Teg Tips is pretty much fair game to comment on, as people actually READ these posts.
I fail Smog and did this to my car. The car still fail Smog. I went by XDEep house and he is not home. I wonder if he home now.