(4) NEXT REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS SECURING THE ALTERNATOR IN PLACE. ONE FROM THE TOP AND ONE FROM THE BOTTOM. ONCE REMOVED SPIN THE ALT TOWARDS YOU WHILE UNDER THE CAR AND REMOVE THE GREEN CLIP AND THE OTHER WIRE WHICH IS HELD ON BY A SMALL NUT.
This is the best article on the g2 alternator ive seen, I searched through all the websites before I did mine, I just did this a couple days ago…I just want to add some info so people wont be scared to do this themselves…
I did not remove my oil filter and I think its the same size as homeboys^ , I did dent it a lil bit, but thats better than damaging the oil filter theads banging the alternator against it…
All the tech articles did not say much about what to do with the axle bracket after you unbolted it, but like he said, swing it down, I had to push my axle towards the engine to get the bracket to clear the stuff on the firewall, but it wasnt hard…
Also I had to pull the mid shaft out of the trans somewhat, That helped me move that bracket down and helped me push the whole axle assembly towards the engine… it slips in and out easily, but be careful Im sure fluid can leak out if pulled out far enough, just make sure you get it back in completly when your done or youll be fighting those 3 bolts…
After that, the alt basicly fell out… I havent worked on Hondas much, It took me about 1.5 hours to get it out, and about 25 mins to put it back in.
Good luck and keep your money away from the mechanic shop!!!:gunleft:
Thanks man! Yeah I didnt have to take the axle out, but like you said its not real hard. Do we need more pics anybody?
Hey MOD, should this be a sticky since everyone seems to have problems with the alternator. I heard one guy talking about it and he dreaded like a homicidal dentist!
EDIT: Oh, by the way. You might want to retorque all the bolts after about a week, they tend to loosen slightly. Thats real bad if the belt tension bolt comes loose!!
may have to do this soon…hopefully just a bad ground wire. Battery light keeps coming on at low RPM’S even though I just replaced the battery.:bang: :dance: :dance:
i copped a brand new battery like 3 weeks ago but say im driving then park it for a little and come back it wont start then you let it rest and it starts easy. Do you think my alternator is going?
Here’s another way to take it off. No need to remove the axle, oil filter, or bend the brake lines.
You’re gonna pass the alternator behind the engine to the passenger side and out through an opening you have to make behind the intake manifold by moving some hoses and stuff…
Remove the mounting bolts
Move the alternator toward the engine block so that the belt goes slack
Remove the belt
Pry the alternator out if necessary. Even after the bolts were out, mine didn't want to just slide out, I needed a 3 foot steel bar to pry/wack it out.
Remove the intake manifold support bracket (5 bolts, 2 up top, 2 down below, 1 in the center)
Now make the hole on the passenger side, behind the intake manifold.
Remove the air intake.
Disconnect and move the speedometer cable
Disconnect and move 2 coolant hoses, 1 that comes out from the heater, one that goes from engine block to another part of the engine block, right next to the line from the heater. Some coolant will leak out, especially from the 2nd hose I mentioned so have a bottle ready to catch the coolant.
These hoses are probably stuck to the pipe that they connect to so you have to loosen them up by trying to turn the hose so that it goes around the pipe until you see it moving.
Unmount the fuel filter without disconnecting the lines and move it out of the way.
Remove various small brackets that hold wires and hoses, and move them out of the way.
We now have a hole!
Turn, rotate, and flip the alternator until it fits through the hole. Mine fit when the mounting ears were pointing roughly NW to SE, if u understand what I mean.
My adjusting nut was worn and tight and was a son of a bitch to get off, but I got a new nut and bolt so the next time should be easier.
When i replaced my alternator i took it out from the top. I did this because i needed to bleed the brakes so i took the master cyllinder off. I moved the belts out of the way as well as the power cables going to the engine. i moved a couple of wire mounts and it came right out.
it seems easier this way when you dont have a lift. the only reason to go on the ground is to remove the bottom bolt for the alternator.
Just replaced my alternator, and wanted to say thanks to this guide. It really helped out.
Some things I would add/tweak:
No need to remove the oil filter, that was never what caused any clearance problems for me.
Note how the bottom bolt can be a bit of a bum to get out, I had to knock on it quite a bit to get it moving, and then pry it from the other side to get it all the way out.
Note how you can “pull” the axle bracket to the left once you flip it down to get yourself a bit more clearance to pull out the alternator.
Absolutley grateful for this article and the page on cardomain. I can confirm no need to remove the filter. Just follow the instructions and with the alternator at the right angle as pictured, it drops right out after bending the heat shield back slightly.
As for the bottom bolt, mine wasnt stuck but instead turned too freely. I had to clamp one side with vice grip pliers to get it to stay put. The most annoying part was trying to get that bottom bolt back in.
When I did my alternator, I just pulled aside the brake master cylinder (Un bolted it first ((duh))) and with a little monuvering got it out with ease lol, also had to move a couple misc hoses making sure not to over torque anything. was a pretty simple job.
