How To: Rewire Fogs in an RS (more involved than LS, GS, GSR)

INFORMATION Articles / Teg Tips
1

So i asked around about how to properly rewire an RS a week ago…I decided to do it the more involved way by removing the instrument panel as well for easy access.

well today i went around collecting the necessary parts:

  1. 10mm socket wrench
  2. flat head screwdriver
  3. Phillips screwdriver
  4. Quick Splice connectors (18-22G)
  5. Spindle of wire (i used 18G)
  6. Crimp connector (had these lying around from crimping my HU harness)
  7. Crimp/Stripping tool
  8. Pliers

How to:

Before you begin- use the socket wrench to disconnect the negative terminal on battery.

  1. Remove driver side kick board (3 screws, one of which is in the coin tray and requires removal of coin tray to get to)

  2. Remove screws for instrument panel (download acura service manual from hondahookup.com found here: http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/ Registration needed.) Carefully remove the instrument panel and do not try to use too much force.

Instrument Panel semi-Removed (wires attached to switches)

you will need to disconnect the harness from the switches to fully remove the instrument panel.

instrument panel fully removed.

  1. After disconnecting the harnesses from the switches and removing the instrument panel, you will see something like this:

    The fog light has 5 wires.
    the instrument panel light adjustment is next to it (RS only).

This is the Defogger’s socket

  1. As per Teg Tip, cut the red/yellow wire a few inches away from the socket, strip it and then crimp it, leaving the other side open.

  2. Run the wire down and look for a good way to route it. I routed mine under the steering wheel behind this curved metal thing. I moved my steering wheel up and down to check for pinching.

Wire routed to other side:

  1. use the quick splice to splice the wire with the black/yellow wire. use pliers to press down on the blade.
    edit: No need to strip, which is the purpose of the QS connector.

Wires spliced.

  1. Cut, strip, and crimp the other end of the wire to the fog light wire.

  2. Put the instrument panel back and wire up the switches. Dont forget the coin box screw.

Success!

2

whoops i realized i put it in the general forum.

if mods could please move it to the electrical forum. thanks. :up:

3

i was just gonna get started on you, but i seen your last post…haha

4

good job on the write up but whats the point? Theres already a huge thread on this in teg tips, if you would’ve taken a couple minutes to look at it you would’ve seen that it’s a better idea to run it to your fuse box anyway:bang:

5

haha my bad…i guess i got too bored. So i went a little further.

edit: took a look at the thread and it isnt the same as an RS at least on the first page…this is for the RS folks.

i guess the benefit of doing it this way is that…its hidden? haha no random wires sticking out of the fuse box…

6

Do it to the fuse box. And you made it much more complicated than it really is, no need to remove the entire bezel. I’ve done two GSs and a RS, all to the fuse box and it takes a whole five to ten minutes. And I feel safer not drawing power from my other switches.

7

I just rewired the fogs when installing the 1-pieces… but this is the better way, nice work.

8

thanks guys.

like i said, this is my interpretation of the Teg Tip method for the RS. If the Teg Tip instructions are no longer valid, then i suggest replacing it with the fuse box method.

9

nice pictures, canon?

10

haha yep. Rebel XT…I believe the exif data is still intact. awesome camera despite some auto-focus issues in low light, the strobe flash focus assist isnt very effective. Took me a few tries to get that under steering wheel shot.

i need a new lens…still using the kit lens.

11

If the Teg Tip instructions are no longer valid, then i suggest replacing it with the fuse box method.

Its all part of the thread, theres like 4 pages of how and why to wire it to the fuse box, you just have to read past the first page of the thread:read:

12

archivethis

13

ah but what if one were to just click on the teg tip link on the top? There’s no link to the thread there. :shrug:

14

After studying the electrical diagrams from the service manual, the red/yellow is used to switch the relay and power the indicator light. no high power draw. According to the diagram its .91 W. Unfortunately i cannot post the picture of the manual due to forum rules.

edit: further studying the diagrams, the Black/Yellow wire for the defogger is also solely used for the relay aspect. This is drawn from a 7.5A black/yellow line called “No. 17”

i think the wire is capable of handling an almost 2 watt power draw.

edit 2: converting .91 watts to amps (assuming 12 volts) = .076 Amps. well within the 7.5 A line.
Since both relays are activated at the same time constantly, we can say (0.91 x 2)/12 (volts) = .152 A.

i’m not saying i’m an electrician…i’m just doing the #s. Anyone with electrical background, by all means, chime in. These wires are not used to power the actual fogs or defogger.

15

its just fine going to the switch.
ive rewired countless fogs, never any problems. very minimal draw as stated

16

You know… Not ONLY RS’ have that set up.

Every G2 without a sunroof has the switches on the opposite side.

All you do is get a piece of wire and run across to the other side of the steering wheel.

17

good to know Dark. at least my how-to will help more people now. :up:

The other picture thread in the Teg Tip forum also did not do a quality job. the OP states it himself (no offense intended). I believe this is a more thorough and clean looking method as opposed to the twist-n-tape method in the Teg Tip thread.

also i read stories of people breaking their switches by prying them from the outside instead of pushing from the back.

18

[QUOTE=00Z71;1695317]its just fine going to the switch.
ive rewired countless fogs, never any problems. very minimal draw as stated[/QUOTE]

BUT not only is it safer, you get the option of when you can turn on your fogs, making them an accessory or a constant. It’s easier anyway I think.

19

the safer argument is moot. The extra power draw is so small its negligible. maybe if you do a crappy twist and tape job where things are exposed then you will have problems, but then there is a fuse.

i’d say the benefit of doing it my/teg-tip way:

  1. no wires out of the fuse box that could look out of place
  2. clean and hidden
  3. prevention of switch breaking (if prying from the outside)

fuse box method:

  1. easier
  2. faster

You could wire it to the hazards instead of the defogger with my method if you want constant.

20

I do give you credit for doing a clean job and a nice write up, I just think its safer and easier to go to the fuse box. but hey it’s your car, do it how you like im sure theres something on everbody’s car that not everyone else will agree on but that’s why its your car and not someone elses.