Hello everyone! as of now the replacement is complete This install involves the Tokico Advanced Handling Kit (Part # ILK204)
Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. You may encounter rusted/seized bolts that may break when torqued. I am not responsible for personal injury/death resulting from this DIY. Thank you.
tools needed:
-Metric ratchet set (14mm, 17mm) - you should have a complete set anyway…not just a few sockets.
-Crescent wrench set " "
-torque wrench with 40, 36, 47 ft/lbs in range
-a pipe for a breaker bar.
-spring compressors
-Pliers
-Hammer or mallet (to either hit bolts out w/ a punch after it is out of the threads but still in the bushing, or tap the front shock fork off or on)
-a set of allen wrenches (hex wrench)
REAR
Loosen lug nuts and raise the car and remove wheel.
unbolt the upper mounting bolts (2x) from inside the rear dash panel:
Unbolt the main bolt that goes through the strut body and Lower Control Arm, you may need to use some pliers to rotate it out of the bushing.
WARNING: Be EXTREMELY careful, the strut is still under pressure after unbolting that main bolt. Please apply weight to the LCA assembly by pressing down on the hub before trying to move or handle the strut.
Optional/Recommended: Remove the bolt closest to you on the upper control arm. (this is the same arm where you do the washer trick). Removal of this bolt GREATLY aids installation.
slide out the strut assembly and put the spring compressors on. If the compressors dont seem to fit, try prying at the spring with something strong and slim enough to fit between the coils. I used the handle of an old wrench.
Dont be afraid of compressing the hell out of it, you’re not using the spring after anyway.
Use a hex-wrench (Allen wrench) to keep the rod from turning as you remove the top bolt. After you get the top assembly off remove the spring+compressors from the strut as well as the misc washers and dust cover.
Remove top assembly and
Reuse: not applicable for full coilover setup
-any part that does not come new with your struts/springs.
Spring Mounting Rubber (thick and black, sandwiched between mounting plate and spring)
Dust Cover (metal cylinder piece)
Dust Cover Washer (on top of Dust cover)
Wedge shaped Washer (underneath dust cover)
Mounting Base (where the 2 mounting bolts go)
For me (may not be for your application) my kit came with
2 mounting rubbers/bushing with sleeve
Top assembly locking-nut
Top assembly washer
install is the reverse, make sure to read the special directions supplied with your setup. the outside LCA and camber bolt are torqued to 40 ft/lbs.
when all is said and done, it’ll look like this:
if a skinny guy weighing 145 lbs can do it, you can too!
i knew it, i ran into a seized bolt and broke off the right LCA head. :down: The left strut has been successfully installed.
most likely we’re going to take it to a shop to get it fixed and most likely the front 2 installed by them :owned:
this will be the : How to change the Rear left strut.
i am super frustrated right now.:mad:
update: called the shop and we’ll decide if he’ll just do that one strut. I may do the fronts, we’ll have to see.
update2: took it to the shop and he’ll do the right rear for me. He told my dad it was good to learn how to do it haha.
update3: shop has installed the strut. It was a little pricey for my taste, but he checked my install and installed the new LCA bushing (bolt was seized inside), and broke loose the front suspension bolts i would be dealing with. Continuation and hopefully completion coming this weekend!
FRONTS
I actually found the fronts to be easier than the rears, provided that the bolts you’re going to work with are pliable and not seized. just get the strut fork off and you’re golden. You may or may not need a 2nd person to apply weight to the hub bearing. For some reason my drivers side was easy enough to allow me to lean on it. The passenger side i was unable to do the same and had my friend stand on it (two feet on the hub).
Loosen lug nuts, raise front of the car and remove wheel.
Remove 2 bolts from brake line bracket on shock.
Loosen strut tower nuts (2). Do not remove nuts yet.
Remove strut fork pinch bolt at base of strut.
Remove lower control arm bolt. (17mm). There is a 17mm nut on the opposing side. You will need two wrenches for this part.
Pull down on strut fork to release shock. Use hammer if necessary.
NOW remove the upper mount bolts and pull the shock from under the car.
Use spring compressors to compress the spring. (Follow the proper methods. Consult Rear installation)
Piece together new strut. Refer to Rear Installation.
Slide the new strut assembly through the top first, use the two mounting nuts to hold the assembly in the car.
Now slide the collar of the shock fork onto the shock. Make sure to line up the alignment tabs on the inner side and that it slides into the little space in the collar. If you have a tab on the outside facing you, you have the wrong side shock installed.
Reapply bolts. Top mount bolt torque depends on your strut. I did about 22 lb/ft. Do NOT follow team-integra.net’s directions in this aspect (using a breaker bar to make everything super tight). You can damage your struts, depending on the type. Please read the supplied special instructions for your setup.
torque specs:
Brake line bolts = 16 ft/lbs
LCA bolt = 47 ft/lbs
Shock pinch bolt = 32 ft/lbs.
Complete:
notes/tips:
-i spent hours (maybe 1:30) trying and prying at the spring to get the compressors in. The fronts are a little harder in that aspect. Ended up having one compressor in and a towel wrapped strut (at your own risk). Worked surprisingly well. For the other front strut i gave up on trying to fit it into the coils. I got one side of the compressor in and used the spring perch for the other. Then I wrapped the top of the strut tight, leaving the nut i would be undoing exposed and stood on the top of the strut. You can also have a friend stand on top of it as well. I should also note the last coil or so of spring on the top of this trouble strut was broken…had been for some time as it was rusted so the pressure under the spring was probably reduced.
-for tough bolts you want to spray something like Liquid Wrench the night prior to your install. It will make things easier and your torque wrench more accurate. (however you shouldnt use oil when torquing bolts on your engine, thats a different story). It actually says in my Craftsman torque wrench manual to lube up the threads to provide a more accurate reading.
random pic of the day:
“its a walk-off everyone…its a walk-off” -Billy zane (Zoolander)
i doubt we need this but good for anyone who hasn’t done this i guess. i can have the whole suspension out an in in like 10 minutes now since i’ve messed with mine so many times now
who is “we”? The entire G2IC? I didnt know everyone thought suspension install was as easy as an oil change…but well we all can learn. This is my first time doing suspension work, and first time undertaking a “major” project. Also i did it cause my parents didnt think i could do it. The reason why this install takes long is:
its my first time
I double, even triple check everything including how i put the strut together off the car.
To take pictures for y’all.
edit: 4. oh and the dumb spring compressors that are too big for the coils.
As of this morning the front strut install has been completed. more Pics for the how-to to come.
update: posted.
Do I think it was worth saving the money from the install by DIY? Not really…but then again it will be used to get an alignment. Be prepared to take an hour to do your strut (if you have to use parts from your old strut) The point for me was to learn how to do it, and should something go wrong, know what went wrong. Plus I paid for this entire project, parts, the labor for the LCA bushing/bolt/rear strut install, camber kit, tires, wheels, mounting/balancing/alignment etc.
going to get an alignment next weekend when the ingalls kit comes in, and i’ll mount new Falken Zeix 512s (195/55-15…getting em today for 260) on them LS Mesh wheels.
get some better tires, everybody with a honda has falken ziex’s, and why are you getting 195/55? that will throw your spedometer off a little bit, so get 205/50 if you have a 15inch wheel
i’m just getting em cause i have a hookup. If i didnt i’d get Potenzas, but those are in the 90s each. 260 for falken ziex 512 comes down to 65 a tire. Thats a good deal IMO. and the 195/55 falken ziex is only available in the V speed rating, and has a softer compound (320 compared to 420).
Speedometer wont be thrown off that much. at 100 mph i’d be going 101…but when am i ever going to go 100? Tickets in so cal are expensive.
195s cause i dont want some unexpected wear pattern with a wider tire with camber issues. And also 55 series is the closest 195 sized tire for 15" to stock.
test drove it, took some fast turns and went onto the freeway. Everything seems fine so far. The ride is a little bumpier, definately noticed less body movement when taking turns.
However i was driving and at one point i heard a noise as if something fell off…i thought it was my hub cap at first, but its still there. It sounded like something heavy, and not light metal…hence the hub cap guess. Checked under the car and everything’s still in place (both LCA bolts, couldnt see the pinch bolt cause of the wheel, but that doesnt really matter due to the weight resting on it)…hopefully i just ran over some debris. :uhoh: Keeping a 14mm ratchet + extension in my trunk for the week…hell i’ll just bring the whole toolset so i dont get stranded in irvine.
one note, my driver side is 1 finger lower than my passenger side (4 fingers to 3 fingers)…hopefully the suspension will settle a little more. If not i’ll check again next weekend when i get an alignment.
As for the drop i’m pretty satisfied. My driveway is a pretty steep incline and i got out to look, i have about 2" clearance at the lowest point so i’m totally fine with 1" drop.
edit: oh yea and i’m running on the number 2 setting on all 4 for the meantime. I might bump it up a notch when i get some new tires/wheels put on.
tokico advanced handling kit (ILK 204) for 90-93 Integras. Got it for 448 shipped + CA Tax.
kit basically consists of Tokico illuminas, mounting hardware, and Tokico springs (read on H-T that these are made by Eibach). lowers 1" all around. 3 finger gap except the passenger side front is 4…minor setback but its not noticeable from just looking at it.
