I’m not putting the factory crossmember in. I’ve got a traction bar coming this week. But I will tell you that the head WILL NOT fit without modifying the factory crossmember. You’ll have to notch it.
mine is already notched for a dc sports 4-1 header. im just trying to see if i would have to cut it more. or have to get a aftermarket crossmember so it will fit.
question iceman, are you still running the a/c in your car? can’t tell from the pic if the a/c compressor is still there.
id love to see a pic of ground clearance
any updates on this? im just waiting for the pictures in order to go buy mine!!! c’mon synsei or iceman, shed some light into this!
Haha. Alright guys. I’ll take a picture when I get off work tonight…unless somebody beats me to it.
clearance is the same as a JDM ITR Header for the most part. i’ll throw some pics up.
ok clearance understood, now how about the “general fitment issues” that you mentioned before, do we get to keep the AC, Power Steering, stuff like it, you know…gott stay comfort, yet powerful jejeje:angel:
Well yeah of course. Most headers generally keep those components, it’s turbo manifolds that oftentimes do not. There are a few very high end expensive headers that may take up more room, but im not totally familiar on that.
I’ll have some pics up tonite, I’ve been staying at my dad’s place last few days so I’ll be home later on and I’ll throw some up. There were a few fitament issues but for the most part they were fairly easy to fix.
k, boys. i think i’m settled on the big tube version. where’s the best place i can get em?? i found a guy on honda-tech for $450 shipped. “hondapartsales” i think was his name…
kteller’s $400 version is the regular-diameter, meant for 1.6-1.8 liter applications.
For overbored engines (1.9L or bigger), the big tube (which kteller doesn’t have in a chinese sweatshop knockoff version) is more appropriate.
thanks guys, im going to switch to a JG/BP Header now, anyways im already suscribed here so keep me posted on the fitment issues pictures because i have a friend on another DA in the same position, waiting for this post to show the pictures in order to buy his header, hes going for a big tube version
Some more pics for comparison can be found here:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/2267244
The adage about getting what one pays for certainly applies.
Ok so here is the issue . . .
that’s my friend nick finishing up the headache. see the nice red exhaust bandage protecting the pipe from the u clamp? here’s the scoop. the head flange was tilted so that when bolted to the head, the collector was angled downward nearly 2 inches, meaning it wasn’t gonna line up without help. after much deliberation here was the solution. using the separate mounting bracket that came with the header, we welded on the ubolt flange and secured it to the existing stock mounting bracket (if you have installed a header before you know what i’m talking about. then we used exhaust bandage to “pad” the area where the ubolt would hold the header in place, and using a jack we “coaxed” the header into place. once it was where we wanted it, we bolted everything together and went on with our business. that was the ONLY hangup. to be honest it wasn’t that big a deal, we just were trying to find the simplest solution possible.
as you can see, it fits very much like a JDM ITR header, albiet the formation of the secondaries and collector is slightly different, the primaries being so long, make it clear about the same.
Here was my ITR one . . .
and here is how the car sits currently . . . i’ve never posted it up i don’t think but this was the most recent picture . . . this was taken before the traction bars and header were installed but you can’t tell that anyway . . .
Which makes me glad I’m getting a real hytech. 
long as it does what it’s supposed to i’m happy.
wouldn’t lining up properly be included in “does what it’s supposed to”? 
even the highest quality parts sometiems don’t fit. if it performs as it should, ill be content, and frankly glad i paid less than half price.
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at that point, they cease to be the highest quality parts, and
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the highest quality parts also have the highest quality of customer service backing them up–part of that “total package” idea of highest quality parts. if there’s a problem, they make it right.
if it performs as it should, ill be content, and frankly glad i paid less than half price.
again, performing as it should, while a subjective term, includes proper fitment without modification. if it doesn’t fit properly, it can’t perform as it should.
