i came in the dyno shop with 162whp 121 torque and left with 185whp/132 @8200 rpms! those are corrected numbers, un corrected is 192whp. i expected more, i was hoping for 195-200whp but i’m satisfied with my result… the motor feels very strong and after the dyno it feelt even stronger… vtec is soooo smooth it litterally pushes me back into my seat from 3k rpms and up! i would defintally hit my goal if i raised my rev limiter to 9k rpms those skunk stage 2 cams are pretty powerful, when vtec opens its so loud it makes my skin crawl lol hopefully i’ll get to post my dynosheet later, i dont have a scanner but i do have digicam… thanks to every1 that helped me built this beast
I have an ls/vtec what did u tune in to make it stronger? I have a vafc I would love to know ur fuel settings and everything. Also I am running into a problem with my plugs getting fouled out I think I have to my much gas (fuel /air gauge is returned because didnt work will have one soon ) but when I turn the vafc wide -1 throatal and low throatal -+ to a -1 or any neg the car doesnt feel strong or really want to hit vtec good. i have a b16a head on a b18b1 block with b16a pistons msd ignation and had bosch platinum plugs in it(the 1.99 ones). Did you have the problem? I would appreciate some help man.
Hey gTintegra, nice dyno session! Where did you go to get it dynoed? And what did you use to tune it?
Do you need to have a fuel controller like the v-afc or can you just get a custom chip burned?
I would like to see your dyno plot- interested to see as well your previous dyno to see how your torque curve was affected by your increase in horsepower as well as where your peak power was moved to in the rpm range
by the way what pistons do u have in ur lsvtec and what plugs re u running? I need a stronger spark in mine even though i have an msd ignation, because my plugs are fouling out because either I have way to much fuel or not enough spark
I’m dying for gtintegra to respond; they’re some pretty interesting question on this thread, I would like to hear you answer gTintegra??? But for now I’m going for a :drive:
sorry for the late replys-
killateg- are you throwing any check engine codes other than the knock sensor? i was running rich like you where when for the first couple of days because of a mapsensor (ecu was throwing a mapsensor code)… if your not throwing any other codes besides the knock, i’ll give suggest setting on your vafc… also do you have a fuel pressure regulator?
cdogg- thanks, i went to drt in queens, i have a vafc with a b&m fuel presser regulator to tune… my ecu is a b16a stock ecu, if your car is odb1 i highly reccomend a chipped p28 dohc program with hondadata while the vafc was a very helpful tool, a hondata is much more precise- it is a must for a ls/vtec!!
gen2/lsvtec - i tried taking picture of my dyno plot but it came out blurry, my cousin has a scanner though when if i see him tomorrow i will post it!
as for my set up its built in every way possible i doubt i can do anything to make it faster… for the modz vs power its kind of low to me, but i will give it 1 more shot at the dyno after i convert to odb1 ecu for hondadata which wont be for a couple of months…
my set up:
b18a bottom end balanced
ls oil pump/water pump
shot peened ls rods with usdm type r pistons
b16a head ported and polished/ milled 0.040
skunk2 intake manifold ported for a70mm throttle body/ portmatch to the head
str 70mm throttle body
jdm dcsports 4-1 header cc
skunk stage 2 cams/spring and retainers
skunk2 camgears set +2+2
aem fuel rail
rc fuel injectors 320cc
b&m fuel pressure regulator set at 38 psi
apexi- vafc
ngk copper spark plugs part # BKR6E-11
thats all i can think off in terms of engine modz
compression is like 12:1
thanks for the compliments if you have any other questions let me know
I see you chose to use ITR pistons and shotpeened LS rods. That is what I’m planning to do but I was looking around to see if there were any aftermarket forged rods that would work with the ITR pistons. Did you happen to find any that worked through all the research you did?
If you are using ls rods, dont forget to get a set of ARP rod bolts, and head studs;) Oh, another thing, get avtec oil pump gTintegra!! I have one from an ITR, vtec needs it!
So your using skunk2 stage 2’s?? Those are supposedley some wild ass cams. I think you can probably get a little more out of them, but it was still a great session…I’m going to checkout the www.hondata.com site for some prices…
Oh, and gtintegra, what does drt charge for dynotuning per hour??If you don’t mind?
I think only the knock sensor code it comes on sparticaly nothing really sets it off, and if i cut the car off and cut it back on it goes away for awhile, usually it goes off every 40-50 miles. I would love to know u fuel settings
Originally posted by KiLLaTEG
I think only the knock sensor code it comes on sparticaly nothing really sets it off, and if i cut the car off and cut it back on it goes away for awhile, usually it goes off every 40-50 miles. I would love to know u fuel settings
Dude, even if you had the same exact mods, the fuel settings won’t be the same!! Every car is unique! even with the same mods! Don’t think that by dialing his exact fuel settings you are going to get his same numbers…You have to get your car dynoed with its own fuel settings, ya dig? EWvery car behaves and reacts diferrently, same goes with cam gear settings, package, package, not lego-building!
I know but I want to see his fuel curve
whiteyg2RS- as far as i know, no forge rods will fit the itr pistions because of the wristpins, aftermarket pistons are free floating which is supposed to be more effiecent, check out the teg tips -the engine rebuilt guide it explains it in more detail!
C-dogg’slsvtec - i forgot to mention that i am using arp headstuds/rod bolts thanks for reminding me lol i get a consitant 75psi of oil pressure in higher rpms with my ls oilpump, while cruising sometimes i get as high as 90 psi! i dont know why i have such a high oil pressure but for now i’ll leave the 295$ itr oil pump alone 
skunk2 stage 2 cams are good cams but they are hard to tune, at one time i reached up as far as 141 torque but my hp decreased :shrug: , i only spent an hr on the dyno, drt is ok with vafc tunning, but with hondata i dont know anybody around here that can tune better than them. i think they charge around 185$ and hr. i only got in about 15 runs so i paid a lil less… here is there number: 718-397-8586
killateg- my coarse correction is -13 what year is your teg? if its 90-91 its fairly easy to check for a code if its 92-93 you need a paper clip to use as a jumper, the teg tips explains it further…
anymore questions lemme know
i just did a compression test that pretty much contributed to the low hp numbers
180
185
190
210
when i put oil in #1 cylinder it rose to 210 and when i put oil in #4 it rose to 270 damn i just broke this engine in!!.. ****!! nothing ever goes right for me!! :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang: :bang:
gTintegra, did they bore/hone your block with a torque plate? if not… those low compression readings could possibly be a result…
with what you have done, i’d say your HP/TQ numbers are low… but like C-dogg’s said, every motor is different.
look at .J.'s car, he’s getting 204 whp with 145 tq with ITR cams…
makes you wonder.
you might look at finding a used vtec oil pump… you dont need an ITR oil pump… a gsr or b16a oil pump will do… and its not the oil pressure they put out… its the volume of oil they move.
i chose to go with pr3 pistons with my motor… .25 oversize and everything’s balanced… running 11.4:1 cr… hope i can get close to your #'s 
i’d also like to see your dyno chart.
the car is a 91 ls special but the comp is a b16a , I switched the map sensor today Ill see if it helps the fouling problem. I know that its leaking alittle oil as well because their was alittle on the oil pan when i changed the oil today. Im not sure where its coming from. -13 is what ur vafc is running?? I am running 0 mostly and +3-7 in wide throatal 5600rpm up. I will read the teg tips and check out the codes, its not kicken all the time just once in a while.
Where do I go to check the compression?? The number one cylindar is fouling the plug the most.
killateg- you need a compression gauge to check compression you can get it at any autoparts store for like $30 but it wont help your fuel problem it only tells you the condition of your engine
here is my dyno plot - its not the best quality but its still viewable
so u run ur vagc to -13 on everything?
nice dyno plot
killateg, thats some pretty crazy settings…
when i had my LS motor tuned with my Safc, i was at -17 for the wild cams at idle, but then i was like +5 at the rest of the rpm