The LED is not lit anymore. Can someone show me how to test the thing with a Multimeter? Don’t want to get a new one. Had it for ten years. Here are the specs capabilities:
I have it in bridged mode. Its powering a 10 inch sub.
stereo or bridged mono output
Tri-way capable
75 watts x 2 at 2 ohms
150 watts x 1 in bridged mode
80 Hz selectable low-pass crossover, 18 dB/octave
150 Hz selectable high-pass crossover, 12 dB/ octave
speaker-level inputs
4-way protection circuitry
signal-to-noise ratio 100 dB
dimensions: 9-7/8"W x 2-1/4"H x 9-7/8"D
Set your meter to volts DC 20, place the black probe to a good chassis point ground and place the red probe on the amps pos.(+) terminal, you should get a reading of about 12.5V, now move red probe to the remote terminal, you should get about the same reading.
Try the meter at the batt. posts first to make sure you have the meter set right.
To test for ground set meter to continuity, should be at the very beginning of the ohms settings, meter will beep at you when probes are touched together and the readout should be 000 or close.
again touch black probe to a good chassis point and the red probe to the amps neg.(-) terminal, again reading should be 000 and the meter should beep.
Alright. With the HU on, I’m not getting 12.5v on the remote terminal side. Its reading 0.01. Continuity is ok. So what does this mean? And what do I have to do?
Ohh and another thing, I just found out the fuse on near the bat is burnt. As soon as I put another 20 amp fuse in, it popped and burnt. Then I put another 20 amp fuse. Again that popped imiediatly. So then I placed a higher fuse rate at 25. Is that okay? Why did it keep popping like that?
The fuse blows because there is a short, disconnect the power cable at the amp, make sure the end does not short to anything, replace the fuse, if it does not blow the problem is in the amp, [blown power supply].
Disconnect the remote lead from the amp and retest it, if it still does not test as 12V+ when HU is on, the remote output from HU is blown, it could have happened if the power supply in the amp is blown.:dozing:94
With the theory of things being blown, why does my sound system work at times? Currently its working now. Does it have to do with the higher amperage fuse I put on? (25)
How can I find where the short is? The power cable from the amp looks like its not touching any other exposed copper wires.
OIC.:read:, you had a 20A fuse in the power cable and replaced it with a 25A:bang:
The KAC-629s should have a 25A fuse in it, the fuse that is in the power cable, [by batt.] should be as “big” as the power cable will handle, 4ga= 150A, 8ga= 100A, 10ga= 60A and so on, the fuse in the cable is to protect the cable not the amp.94
If the amp is working, so is the remote lead, [or amp would not turn on], the current draw of your amp is 19A, [when driven to it’s rated RMS output] it is capable of almost twice that, although THD levels will be over 1%, and more then the 19A of current is used, that’s why there is a 25A fuse in the amp.
One of the main reasons I do not like the AGU type fuse, big glass type, [assuming that is what you are using] it will not blow at 21A, [20A fuse] it will just get hot, the more current the hotter it gets, and because music is dynamic the fuse only heats up at to loud passages, when bass hits hard and depending on how loud you have the system cranked, it will get hot enough to melt the solder that connects the fuse filament to the metal end caps until contact is broken, this will start as an intermittent problem getting progressively worse and cutting out at lower and lower volumes.
You have not said what gauge the power cable in.:tapfing:94
just to start I always read your posts when helping members with eletronics, but I read that you say 10ga wire is good for a 60 amp? Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe its 30 amp?
91akira: I believe what fcm has stated that you needed a 25 amp fuse, but if it ran like that with a 20 amp fuse, then there could be more draw being required by the amp, and fcm stated that it could be the power supply on the amp itself is on its way out?
If problem persists, then it is more then likely your amp. NEVER increase your fuse size, you are essentially making your wire a wick, with car sounds systems often large gauge wire is used making it less likely, but do not increase fuse size!
Please listen to fcm in this subject I’m just trying to learn off of this site.
