Ok first, it is a 93 RS OBD1 with a B20B swap done a while ago. The car sat for 2 years. I have replaced the fuel by disconnecting the tank to fuel filter line and purging into a gas can and filling with fresh 5 gallons. I have also replaced the oil, coolant, fuel filter, cap and rotor. So far I have spark at all the wires, and after pulling out the whole fuel rail with injectors and turning the car on and over, I can see all four of the injectors spray out. So me being a dumbass decided to put a whole thing of isopropyl alcohol drygas in when the tank was empty and after filling with a fresh 5 gallons put another half one in. So now the gas smells like drygas/Isopropyl alcohol. I know the MFR (main fuel relay) is making 2 audible clicks and I have an extra one that I have swapped in to not avail. My questions are
Will that amount of drygas 1.5 bottles/5 gallons of gas cause the fuel/drygas mixture to not ignite? I know isopropyl is flammable enough, but will that affect the stoich and put it out of whack?
How do I know if my ecu is dead? I realize that that is far fetched but I figure it is a simple enough variable to eliminate. I jumped the green and brown wires in the passenger foot area and didn’t get any flashes etc.
Does anyone else have any variables I have excluded or if I have over simplified some of the prior steps? I have checked the spark plug wire firing order 1-3-4-2 from driver side cylinder being 1 to pass being 4 and proper configurement on the distributor.
I have gotten alot of cars running being scientific about it and eliminating variables, and me and two other smart people are stumped. Thanks for reading this and trying to help.
Ok I will make this simple, how do I check to see if my ECU is dead. This is a simple question, I expect a simple answer. I don’t want to hear anything about swapping out other ECUs. I don’t have access, I want to know how to check the one I have in my car.
If you have spark and fuel the part of the ECU that you need to start the car is working. the car should start make sure that timing is right and the plug wires are in the right order. From the bottom left of the distributor cap should be wired to number one plug going clock wise 3, 4, 2 is the order wires should be in.
Yeah I have that. My car makes this weird humming sound, coming from the fuel rail/intake area, that goes away when I unplug the MFR. I don’t get it. I have replaced the wires, plugs, rotor, cap. I pulled the injectors and fuel rail out and while two friend held it up I watched it squirt from each injector. I know I have spark. You would think that just having residual fuel in the cylinders would at least make it pop. It’s like the laws of physics and chemistry are nmot applying here. I am getting so pissed, I have gone over every variable 3 times and it just won’t even fire. complete bullshit.
oh and you can test your ecu by running the k test
The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector’s reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. “The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist.”–TxGM