I’m fairly new to the tuner scene (about 6 months in), let alone the car scene. I really enjoy it and I’d like to learn more. I have a 1992 GS-R, stock B17A1, YS1 B17 tranny, DC Sport headers with a cat delete and 2 1/4 Borla test pipe dropped 2.5" on stock suspension with the cheapo coilovers (VegasSpeed). I have a complete boost kit just chillen for my car and I wanna make about 300-350 WHP with the boost dropped in it. I guess my question is what and how much WHP can I achieve being all motor before I boost? Also factoring in reliability and gas mileage? This car is not my DD but I would still like it to be able to handle stop and go traffic during the rediculous Vegas heat and be able to drive to and from Cali without problems. Please help me out with what parts I can get and how much it will be, no swaps please. I’ve come to learn the B17 isn’t the best motor but it’s a diamond in the rough. All comments appreciated!
NOTE: The engine and tranny just got rebuilt about 100 miles ago. Gaskets, seals, reconditioned rods, valve job, and some Type R upgrade that gave me higher compression. I know I should know what it was but i really don’t.
If it was me I would take care of all the suspension items such as bushing, new struts, as many aftermarket upgrades as posible. Sounds like you have a good solid car with the engine but get everything possible upgraded then work on boost, I know everyone else is going to be like its fine just boost it but you want a car that you can jump in and go and have the power but you can’t have all of that with stock parts and boost. take your time! Pics would be awesome to see
A freshly rebuilt B17 can handle nearly 400whp if you boost it. Youre not going to get much over 200whp all motor unless you sleeve it and have it bored out to a higher displacement.
Just got done ordering Function and Form type 2’s. I read up ad found those were pretty decent for the price :] It already has ingalls camber kit all around and the controls arms so I think I’m good with those. Ill post up a few photos.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2279155]if done right a 100-150 shoot of nitrus can put you in that range and more.
you have to tune your car for it or you’ll just detonate and blow.[/QUOTE]
I kinda want to be all motor, maybe NOS just for 1/4 mile times and show later on but I want it to be street. Thanks though!
8 lbs? Meaning 8 lbs of boost? Sorry i’m still new to the car scene. I was hoping around 200-220 WHP being all motor if thats even possible. My goal is about 300 WHP with boost, but still being able to DD if I ever needed to. I’ll take that E85 tune into consideration. I heard it does wonders lol. Do you know if M1 or RP oil is better?
id suggest reading older posts and talking to tuners just to help you out some. theres even some good books on building horsepower thatll really help with your questions.
If you wanna shoot for 200-220 NA then add boost you better find a good tuner.
You will have to have a pretty high CR for those numbers. Nothing wrong with that at all, haha. Just some tuners try to stay away from that around here.
Idk how that would be as a dd but it would be a damn good weekend car lol, in for pics.
[QUOTE=dlo253;2279261]If you wanna shoot for 200-220 NA then add boost you better find a good tuner.
You will have to have a pretty high CR for those numbers. Nothing wrong with that at all, haha. Just some tuners try to stay away from that around here.
Idk how that would be as a dd but it would be a damn good weekend car lol, in for pics.[/QUOTE]
Pics should be coming soon, since the rebuild i’ve tracked it once. 14.6 on the quarter mile isn’t too shabby? Right now it has about 165-175 WHP. I’m taking a complete shot in the dark, CR means Compression Ratio? If i’m right then the compression is higher than stock. Lol, sorry i’m new.
Internals are camshaft, pistons, connecting-rods, etc… And yes, they increase power, as long as you buy parts that all work together.
Yes, CR means compression ratio… You change this by getting different pistons, valves, or changing the bore of the cylinders…
Pistons have a Dome… the size of the dome will either raise or lower compression.
These are all pretty basic concepts… you should brush up on engine theory as to get a better understanding how the internals of your motor work together.
Just out of curiosity, do you happen to have dyno results to post from after the B17A1 was rebuilt? It would be interesting to see what that engine is capable of with the higher compression.
It might also be a good idea to know that (what the compression is now), before you bolt the turbo on, and take it to a tuner, unless its the same shop that rebuilt the engine in the first place, (chuckle).
I think I have seen that, but did not read it in detail, there is a lot, and most of it is quite old. I was curious what was done to take a n/a engine with 160 crank HP (and alreadly almost 10:1), and make it 165-175 wheel hp. I will read a few more posts in that thread when I get a chance.
Since your in vegas… go to IFO this weekend for the pro import races. only 15 to watch and ur bound to learn a thing or two… start buying honda tuning magazines. read the build parts list then do a price check on stuff you want and see whats most affordable.
theres some great faq threads and info threads on here and on h-t
my buddy is going out there this weekend.
hese running a fully built b20v that puts down 255hp all motor and 375hp on a 100 shoot.
in a fully track ready eg shell, 5 lug, full slicks and skinnies in the back