do not bash or laugh too hard-just where in the hell is the igniter in the distributor? code 15-ran erractically, cap was in bad shape. replaced. ran a while. started dying again-now wont start. no spark.
been through 2 distributors already(second given under warranty)-no prob slappin the whole unit in, but i do not know where the igniter is. not buying a nother distributor $250-$300. thanks.
The ignitor is the little brown or black box inside the distributor with 4 terminals coming off of it.
250-300? distributor king from ebay is like, 150-160, and guarantees theirs for life.
how sure are you that its the ignitor? theres the ignition coil as well that can go bad and give a cel15.
test both parts to see if they are within spec.
and both parts are inside the distributor.
thanks for the replies. i will yank it off tomorrow eve after work and check out the coil. my understanding is that the igniter itself cannot be tested. you start with the coil and then the connections and if all else checks out, helms advises to replace igniter. i am pretty sure the coil IS fried-the small spring pin that goes into the hole in the coil to the cap was in REAL bad shape-almost busted off. but have also seen that it is usually a good idea to do em both at the same time and i just want to be prepared to possibly do so.
one other thing. i see igniter modules (set) and just igniters from parts places. one is quite a bit more than the other. the cheaper ones say they do not have a “heat sink”. can the old one be used if the part needs replace? better off getting the whole unit with the heat sink? thanks.
when replacing the ignitor it is always a good idea to slap a small amount of hightemp grease on the areas it contacts anything cause the dizzys on hondas get hot and with all that garbage stufed into a small package things ae bound to fail… I went through three and idk if its luck or what but after i smalled a small bit of that junk on all the areas that contact the case it seems to be fine
the ignition coil is like a fatty black box inside the dist. with 2 wires going to it… the ingitor is a smaller brown or black box with 4 terminals going to it.
YES the ignitor can be tested. take a look in the helms manual. u should get voltage readings going in and out of they ignitor (this has to be done with key on egine off, and the dist hooked up to the car no dist cap). an ignitor cost too much to be replaced with out knowing if its bad or not.
peace
DISTRIBUTOR
Top End Inspection
1.Check for rough or pitted rotor and cap terminals.
2.Scrape or file off carbon deposits. Smooth rotor terminal with an oil stone or No. 600 sandpaper, if rough.
3.Check distributor cap for cracks, wear and damages. If necessary, clean or replace it.
IGNITER
Input Test
The PGM-FI ECU and tachometer should be normal. When the self diagnostic indicator blinks, perform self diagnostic checks on the fuel system. Perform an input test for the igniter unit after completing test on the ignition and fuel systems.
1.Remove the distributor cap, rotor and leak cover.
2.Turn the ignition switch ON check for battery voltage between the positive terminal and ground. Voltage should be present. If voltage is not present, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire or a disconnected terminal.
3. If voltage is present, disconnect the BLK/YEL wire from the igniter. Check for battery voltage between the BLK/YEL positive wire and ground. If voltage is not present, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition coil and the igniter.
4. If voltage is present, disconnect the WHT/BLU wire from the igniter. Check for battery voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. Voltage should be present. If voltage is not present, check for an open in the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the igniter or a disconnected terminal.
5. If voltage is present, check for continuity between the igniter body and distributor housing.
6. If all tests check good and the system still fails to function, replace the igniter.
IGNITION COIL
Testing
1.With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the 2 screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL front terminal A and WHT/BLU from terminal B of the coil.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals. Replace coil if resistance is not within specification. Resistance will vary with coil temperature. Specifications are at 70°F (20°C).
4. Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is 0.6-0.8 ohms.
5. Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower is 9760-14640 ohms.
6. Replace coil if the resistance is not within specifications.
listen to mike he helped me with my dizzy problems and it works like a charm
testing the ignitor and the ignition coil
I followed spikymikes instructions on troubleshooting the internal parts on the distributor, and here are the results :
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My teg had no leak cover in the distributor.
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My wire colors are not the same. I have a Black/Yellow (+) and a Yellow/Green (-) coming off the terminals on the coil.
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“If all tests check good and the system still fails to function, replace the ignitor”. Why do all of the tests when you know that the system is not functioning and that if your tests are fine you are going to replace it anyway… why go through the hassle of doing the tests ? Kinda lost me there…
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There are no terminals marked A and B. They are (+) and (-). So when it is described to check the winding resistance between terminals and A and the “coil tower” That is (+) and the coil tower or (-) and the coil tower, or should it matter? I got 14.8k ohms from my coil. This is outside the tolerance level according to this document. Meaning I should replace the coil? Or is it possible that it might be just fine. I am an electronics tech not a mechanic.
If anyone else had had these issues please let me know. Would not Start and no spark at the Distributor.
Thanks