ok heres my problem car doesnt run/start/turnover!
I started it up to go to work and after i was done with work(2hrs later) car didnt start. i was reading on here and it sounded like my ignition switch was to blame. so i checked the continuity of it and it failed so i bought a new one and checked that one and is passed and didnt fix my promblem just got me closer to getting it started. so i just hooked up my batter charger staright to the starter and turned the key over and presto it ran. let it run for 15mins then shut if off and took the charger off and tried to start it again nothing and i mean nothing(no clicking of and sort). checked grounds cleaned them up still nothing swapped batteries nothing check fuses all good. the fuse box under the hood says 70a for the battery and there is a 30a in its spot could the be causing my problems but dont kno y it would come up kno been driving it that way for over a year.
please help
What exactly do you mean by "so i just hooked up my batter charger staright to the starter and turned the key over and presto it ran. "?
To where on the starter motor did you connect the batt. charger?
Did you connect both the batt. charger clamps to the starter motor?
What kind of charger is it, does it have boost capability?
Try a bypass jump, using a jumper lead with one end connected to the batt. pos.(+) terminal, touch the other end to the starter motor solenoid terminal, [unplug the starter lead going to the solenoid to expose the terminal] BE CAREFUL make sure car is not in gear and hand brake is set, engine will crank even if car is in gear and ign. switch is off.
If engine turns over and starts, [ign. key on] then problem is not the starter motor or solenoid, and if you have already replaced the ign. switch the problem is either the CIS, [clutch interlock switch] the starter relay or the ground to the CIS or the wiring between the CIS and the relay or between the relay and the starter solenoid.
If car is an automatic the problem is the A/T Gear Position Switch or the wiring from the ign. switch to the A/T GPS or between the A/T GPS and the starter solenoid.
So two questions…
Does the bypass jump work?
Is the car an auto or 5 speed?94
do you have an aftermarket alarm?
i hooked it up so that the power to the starter was coming from the charger not the battery and i turned over that way but after i took it off and tried to start it again it did not even click
the charger is an apollo portable recharger and no boost cape.
havnt had time to try the bypass yet and it is a 5speed.
where is the ground to the cis located?
nope no alarm at all.
If engine cranked and started using the key, [when charger was connected] then the problem is not the CIS or the starter relay or any of the wiring to the starter solenoid.
Assuming you connected the charger to the starter motor batt. terminal, the larger terminal on the starter motor that the batt. is connected to and not the smaller solenoid terminal, [that would be used in the bypass jump] then the problem is the connection between the batt. and the starter motor, this also assumes the batt. is in good working order and fully charged.
Question… do the head lights and horn work?
When you turn on the ign. switch does the cluster “light up”, [alt. warning light, CEL light] do the gauges work?
If you have the door open, dome light on, and you turn ign. switch to start, does the dome light stay on?:hmm: 94
Alternator? When you got the car started… unhook the ground cable to your battery… does the car die or still run? If it dies then the alternator is not charging your battery… correct me if I’m wrong…
I would also replace that 30A fuse, [if it is a 30A] with the proper 70A fuse. :stare:94
Oh I must have missed the part where you said in your original post about the 30A… yeah replaced that for a 70A… replace the cheaper stuff first then go from there…
i replace the fuse with the 70a and put in my 1month old red top optima battery and turn over and started went to go turn my headlights on and my car shut off wtf!!! this is wierd (headlights do not come on./dome lights shut off when i turn the key to start pos.)
as for my alternator it works have had my neg. cable come off and car still ran.
edit: tried to jump start the battery and got it to turn over for a half a second (didnt start) and only would attempted to turnover after turning the key over pretty hard.
im confused on this i press on the brake pedal(keep in mind this is a 5speed) my oil light, battery light lite up and my temp gauge goes all the way up
there has to be a short or something in the wiring
You have a connection problem, probably a ground, but could be a a power connection.
I would check the grounds first, remove the batt. and the batt. “box” for access to the chassis ground, remove it clean both the terminal and the ground point and reattach, making sure it is tight, do the same at the motor/transmission ground, reinstall batt. “box” and batt. and reconnect the batt. making sure both the batt. posts and the cable clamps are clean, also make sure clamps are open enough that they go all the way to the bottom of the posts before you tighten them.
If that does not solve the problem you will need to do the same with the power side, you have already started by making sure the pos.(+) batt. clamp is on the batt. post properly, [clean and tight], move on to the batt. to starter motor connection, again remove it clean both the ring terminal and the starter motor post and nut.
Next will be the charge line between the alt. and the under hood fuse box and the batt. lead in the under hood fuse box, that’s 3 connections that need to be removed cleaned and reconnected, next are the main fuses, all the fuses that are screwed down need to be removed contact surfaces cleaned and reinstalled making sure the screws are tight.
You should try starting the car after each step so you know where the problem was.
A symptom of a connection problem is things like the dome light going out when you try and crank the motor, the connection is good enough for relatively low current to pass but when the load goes up, [starter motor trying to draw enough current to work] the connection breaks, [opens]
Also, one circuit, [brakes] effecting other unrelated circuits, [oil light, temp. gauge] is a symptom of a grounding problem. 94
ok so far so good ive cleaned up the grounds and got the car to continusly start. i did make sure that i did have to replace my ignition switch and yeah i did car wouldnt start with the old one. hopefully it still starts when i put it all back together.
thanks for all your help.
If nothing works… I believe Kragen or Autozone can do an electrical test for you at no cost… call them and ask… hopefully they’ll be able to tell you what the culprit is.
Like fcm said before… clean all your ground power connections and make sure theyare nice and tight… that’s a very good start…