Hello all,
I am in the process of buying this engine set up https://honda-tech.com/forums/sale-10/ca-b18a1-high-comp-longblock-w-lsd-transmission-overhauled-3k-daily-driven-3287173/
What I will be receiving is the engine to include intake manifold, header, clutch/PP, ecu and all fuel/ign components. This will be dropped into my 91 RS and I will be pulling my OEM engine that just hit 222,000 miles. Car is my DD for the most part, I have a truck for the harsh winters up here in Montana. I will be installing my freshly rebuilt LS 5 speed transmission(maybe a B16 S1 later down the road) onto the engine. Previous owner is a GREAT guy and has helped answer some of my questions but I figured this site would help with more specific DA chassis questions.
I already searched and I now know I am going to require a OBD0 to OBD1 harness adapter (Rywire.com one looks nice), 4 wire 02 sensor(may use a innovative wideband to supply the narrowband signal IF I have him put the tune in closed loop), distributer wire conversion (I have to confirm that the engine does not already have an OBD1 unit on it).
The owner has told me it is running TSX injectors SO I read that I have to remove the injector resistor box and solder all the “red” wires together. This correct?
The header it comes with is nice but I think I will have to notch the crossmember quite a bit. Has anyone here successfully installed the CLS V1 tri-y header in a DA?
The previous owner had an OBD1 harness running the engine in his civic.
Once I determine what ecu he is running and call David at Import Auto Pros about the current tune, I will most likely get a chip burner and fine tune it with crome (if it needs it, I read that David is pretty damn good). OR should I do away with the ROM burner nonsense and just send my ecu to hondata to upgrade to a s300?
I have plenty of experience with N/A tuning; I built and swapped my FC RX-7 with an LS1 and did all the tuning with HPTuners(just google my username with LS1 FC3S and you will see it). My FC is my hotrod but I have had it finished for some time now and cant help but tinker with this DA I picked up for cheap back in March. I miss my 2nd Gen prelude and have always loved the driving experience with early 90’s Honda’s.
If any of you could point me in the right direction pertaining to some possible hiccups or modifications I am going to encounter with this engine swap it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Hey there, For your question on the harness and injectors, go back to rywires site and to the obd0-1 harness, and click on the installation PDF, it will describe to you step by step which wires to pin and reuse, and what to do If you are going to remove the resistor box and use non odb0 injecotrs
I installed a 1320 Toda power REP header on my 91 , and it would have not cleared the crossmember , being a 1 piece design. I removed the crossmember entirely (you cannot and should not drive the vehicle
without this ) and in turn , replaced with a Ktuned Traction bar.
For your future plans to swap transmissions, the 91 should be a cable actuated trans. keep that in mind with your transmission selection, you would have to either stick with a cable system, or consider modifying you factory pedal assembly to accommodate the Hush Performance cable to hydro conversion ( I don’t believe you can retain heat to the left drivers vent , and it is rated by the company as a more difficult rated install, other companies like hasport make a conversion on the trans that just uses a lever assembly to convert the cable movement to the hydraulic fork. and innovative makes a kit that bolts to the front core support and routes the cable to a lever and its own reservoir with cylinder to the slave on the hydraulic assembly.
best of luck
Thank you for the reply. I finished the swap in late August of last year. Purchased an innovate traction bar. Modified the resistor box. Used Crome Pro to tune it…old school program but it is all relative. Wide band and data logging works the same.
It runs great, been a fun engine through this winter. Can’t wait to have traction again at full throttle lol.
A friend of mine is using Crome to tune his CRVtec turbo hatchback, he mentioned something about DEMON software that allows him to modify via Bluetooth , which seems cool.
I’m planning to do an obd1 conversion on my 91 with an LS vtec . Piecing things together over this winter. What did you do for wideband?
i’ll more than likely have a shop I know , tune my car, but I’m sure they’d like to see wideband installed for simplicity, and its a helpful monitor i’d like to have
I originally went with the innovative mtl-x but it went to shit in less then 45 days. I guess it is pretty common with the lsu 4.9 sensor since their controller is sub par. So then I installed a plx multigage in November. It has served me very well.
If you are going to tune the wideband is crucial. All my past vehicles I always have a wideband installed (because in all my past rides I have ecu tuning capability).
Honda’s engines are strange. They seem to like a bit leaner AFR’s then engines I have experience tuning(LSx, 13bt’s). Shoot for 15:1-15.5 for cruise and 13:0-13.2 for WOT. That is where my datalogs show the most power increase and quicker acceleration times for the same atmospheric conditions that day while tuning. Timing is using a b18c5 map with 1 to 2 degrees of more timing(granted I am at 11.5:1 & have BC 022 cams)
Obviously turbo engines are different. 11.5:1 AFR is very safe. Don’t push it unless you understand the correlation between dynamic & static compression ratio with proper AFR and ignition timing.