Well I finally did it. Wasn’t that bad to do, though I had one small leak after everything was installed. It didn’t really do much as for HP #'s which many are lookign for, but makes me feel better.
At first I was going to opt for the Earl’s Plumbing fixture and rubber hose. I was thinking that the steel braided lines would be too expensive. But the parts place I went to had the prices almost as close for rubber hose as to the steel braided. On top for the 8feet of rubber hose that came with the oil relocator kit, I got another 15 feet of hose, but you can probably get about 12 ft becuase I had a few feet left over. As I then figured out what I needed for the plumbing fixtures I almost died becuse just the hose and fixtures cost about 220 dollars. Hell no so I didn’t buy it. Lucky Home Depot has basically the same fixtures and they come in different styles. So instead of about 180 worth of earls plumbing I got it down to 30ish dollars at home depot. I used the brass plumbing fixtures.
Forgive me if this is confusing, lack of sleep in the wee early mornings make the brain a little slow. When tightening fittings use a screwdriver or something similar for added leverage. I tightented then pretty tight when screwing everything.
I bought a 24 Row Tru-Cool oil cooler from racerpartswholesale.com (I I think thats it) for 45 bucks. Then bought the perma cool relocator kit from summit racing. It was 29 dollars and the oil cooler thermostat was another 29 bucks.
I don’t suggest getting anything larger than the 24 row cooler because we all know how cramped the engine bay is. I took the front bumper off and installed the cooler in front of the A/C rad/condensor, but behind the power steering pump metal hoses. You will have to unbolt the one screw that is holding down the being part for the cooler to fit. Cooler won’t fit properly if you don’t undo it. Tighten the brass fixtures on as tight as possible and use teflon tape . Don’t b stingy with the tape too. Position the fixtures in the same direction, but one side (passenger side) to be pointed out a little if using 90 degree fixtures. Use the hose and hose clamps and install onto the brass fittings. I used a lubricant to make it easier to fit the rubber hose over the fitting. Route the hose inside of the engine bay.
Now figure out where your going to put the oil thermostat (if your going to use one). I put mine near my battery. Cut the hose and sintall with hose clamps. Make sure there is enough hose so its not too tight. Slack in the hose is a good thing. Now install the hose to the other side of the thermostat. Route the hoses up to be fitted onto the oil relocator assembly
I put my oil relocator on the firewall above the gas filter. You will have to drill into the firewall to install. You will want to make something to secure onto the firewall better becaus eI was only able to put one screw into it. Use some rubber grommets too so the engine noise and oil pump noise is dampened.
Then route the rest of the hose down to the oil fiter spindle part. Install that onto the engine block. Then your done.
Don’t install the bumper yet and make sure all fittings are tight and clamps are clamped. Check your oil level. Instead of the usual 4 quarts you probably will be using around 5 quarts of oil now. Frequently check your oil level. Start the engine and check for leaks. If you don’t have any, good job! If you do, well tighten it. If everything is going well, reinstall bumper.
Now your done, but for the next couple of weeks constantly check your oil level and wherever you park, check for new oil marks indicating oil leakage. During this you could also add an oil temperature or oil pressure gauge. That will be next on my list. It will also be easier to monitor if you have leaks if you have the oil pressure gauge.
I will try and post some pictures later on. Email me if you need some or want me to hurry up and post the pics. Have fun with the install!