i am looking at a skunk2, will this bolt right on to my b18a?
also, what type of gains could i expect from this? i only have a CAI.
any help appreciated, thanks.
i’m pretty sure that skunk2 makes 3 different intake manifolds:
-one for the b18c1
-one for the b18a/b
-one for the pr3 head (b18c5, b16a, and b17a heads)
so, as long as you get the right one then you should be fine.
Don’t expect huge gains though. Personally i’d get other things first. Like cams, and raise compression.
always, always always, do intake header and exhaust first. this will open up your airflow and basically, give you more balls. (kid tested mother approved) but seriously, the more air you open up the more power you will feel with each mod. first do i/h/e/, then plan on where you want your power. do you want a torque machine or high end? are you planning on nos/ super/turbo/ or NA (real men! j/k amerikan) after that, maybe look into a good set of cams. then your intake manifold woudl seem feesible. be sure to note yer gonna WANT (not nead) a new throttle body that is bored out so you dont restrict airflow, you can get it done by RC or JG or someone, or just go buy a new one. not sure what the specs are on the skunk2, but maybe an itr woudl would suit your needs. let me know if you have any other questions im in the middle of a type r swap on my b17a. feel free to PM or keep postin
ps. i hope i helped. later.
pps. expect headaches throughout this install.
I ALMOST FORGOT; i read an article about mating a type r IM to an LS (which isn’t fun, get the skunk…same thing but bolts right up)
here is a link that mated a type r IM to an LS…kinda cool, BUT WHATS REALLY COOL IS THE DYNO THEY DID AT THE BOTTOM…up 6 or so horses and 2 torque but loss of torque in midrange…if you plan on revving 8 or higher, than this is the ticket…btw it loves lumpy cams so im toldhttp://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=85
personally my opionion differs greatly from redstargsr’s. I think that i/h/e shouldn’t necessarily come first.
I feel that intake is a good place to start. but after that cams are your best bet. Then maybe a header, and raised compression, and then exhaust.
In truth the stock exhaust really isn’t that bad. you’ll only gain a hp or two from the upgrade (more once you get more serious mods). The 90-91 exhaust manifold does suck, but the 92-93 piece isn’t all that bad.
Personally for a b18a buildup here is what i’d do:
-intake
-crower 403 cams and accompanying valvetrain upgrades
-header
-rebuild bottom end to handle higher revs
-ecu
-fpr
-cam gears
-exhaust
-port/polish…etc…etc…etc…
dodus-
you shouldn’t get cams before you have header and exhaust. why? well cams are just gonna open up the valves longer and be pushing more air in, and making more power, but if yer pushign em through the stock .5inch exhaust yer not gonna make nearly as much power as you would with an exhaust. true buildling the bottom end is nice, but without proper airflow you are wasting your $$$. just do i/h/e, then pick up where 91integs left off…just ask g2guru…later
i never said NOT to get i/h/e. I just think that personally they aren’t the best first mods.
I think that its best to perform the mods in such a way that for each mod you put on you will be getting the best bang for the buck at that moment. Think about it. YOu are gonna spend $500, and want as much power as possible. Your choices are a header, and exhaust, or cams. Cams will clearly make more power. Then i continue like that. Just list the optional mods, choose the one that will yield the best gains at your current stage, and add that mod. And so on and so on. You will reach a point where header and exhaust will actually yeild some good hp/$ gains. Whereas if you added them first it would do virtually nothing.
You said: “true buildling the bottom end is nice, but without proper airflow you are wasting your $$$”
not to be an asshole, but you should’ve thought before you spoke. What you said can be directly turned around on you to prove the opposite point. Now quote me: true i/h/e are nice, but without cams and other more major mods you are wasting your $$$" Do you see what I mean? I/H/E make almost no gains until you add more serious mods (like cams, raised compression…)
I know a lot of people out there who want more power out of their car. So they go spend $1000+ on i/h/e. Then they quit, more serious mods scare them too much because they are under educated and because “bolt on” stuff is so readily available and is pushed on them by local shops.
Now, if i was going to spend $1000 on my car to add hp (and after that $1000 stop like most people stop after i/h/e) I would add crower 403 cams, custom cai, and a 92+ intake manifold. In the end i would have spent the same amount of $$ but my car would kick the crap outta theirs. Who would be happier? I think we would all agree I would be.
sorry for such a long post. I just get irritated when people say that i/h/e have to be the first things. And i’m not saying that cams should be, but i’m just saying that if you want the best bang for the buck at the moment then get cams or somethign more serious than an exhaust. Buying and exhaust first is just $500 put into prepping your car for real mods. Why not spend that $500 on something that will actually make power now, and even more power once you do add the things like i/h/e. But, thats just my viewpoint, there is NO CORRECT way to do it.
ok- i see where yer coming from. if $$$ is an issue now…at least a major one… i was referring to ‘4evawize’ is probobly going to have his car for a longer duration. yes. i/h/e is prepping yer car into what you have for the future. in a sense, if your gonna get everything eventually, then it doesn’t matter what order youre going to get them in. if we are talking about the most power for the money screw all this and just go buy some nos.
also 91IntegGS said: "YOu are gonna spend $500, and want as much power as possible. Your choices are a header, and exhaust, or cams. " - well- cams are $379 for those crowers then $185 for valvesrings and another $150 i think for retainers. then u gotta worry about install and dyno time, dont forget a good set of cam gears another $250…not sure what dyno time but it’s important as well.
x4eva-----do whatever you want with your money. cams will yield more power, but yer only restricting power by using the stock exhaust manifold and exhaust. this is getting away from the originial post. good luck with your project.
Redstargsr: yeah, i think you’re a bit more on my wavelength now. But still i have a couple things i’ve got to mention.
First:
in a sense, if your gonna get everything eventually, then it doesn’t matter what order youre going to get them in
You couldn’t be more correct!!! so why not put them in such an order that each time you add a mod you get the best hp/$ ?? Just my personal opinion on the way which you’ll be happiest.
Second:
if we are talking about the most power for the money screw all this and just go buy some nos.
hehe, that is very true. But i’m an allmotor guy. So, i pretty much disregard turbo/SC/Nos whenever i’m talking–i can’t help it.
Third:
also 91IntegGS said: "YOu are gonna spend $500, and want as much power as possible. Your choices are a header, and exhaust, or cams. " - well- cams are $379 for those crowers then $185 for valvesrings and another $150 i think for retainers. then u gotta worry about install and dyno time, dont forget a good set of cam gears another $250…not sure what dyno time but it’s important as well.
-ok, now i’m not saying that you are wrong, only that we are talking about two completely different situations. First let me say that you really only need the upgraded valvetrain if you plan on reving higher than the stock redline. The beefed up valvetrain (stiffer springs) are there to make sure that you don’t get valve float. Even with the 403’s you’re not going to experience valve float until you get past the stock redline.
-so, my point is. $450 for a greddy exhaust vs $379 for crower 403’s (we will forget about the valvetrain because you won’t be reving higher, you can easily install cams yourself, and to keep costs below $500 we’ll forget about cam gears (which by the way you are getting ripped off if you’re paying $250!!), and forget about the dyno tuning too). Even simply comparing just exhaust to just cams—the cams are going to make more power.
And if you do raise your rev limiter, and redline (per valvesprings), and spend the money on cam gears and tuning there is even more power to be extracted from the cams!
Also, please be aware that i’m not fighting with you. If i’m coming off as being rude or anything like that it is purely by mistake. I think that this kind of conversation is really good for the boards. It gives people not only suggestions and opinions, but also information to base their own opinions/decisions on.
…you really only need the upgraded valvetrain if you plan on reving higher than the stock redline. The beefed up valvetrain (stiffer springs) are there to make sure that you don’t get valve float. Even with the 403’s you’re not going to experience valve float until you get past the stock redline.
So you don’t need new aftermarket valve springs if you install 403’s?? If that’s the case, then I’ll be MORE than glad to get the cams before buying an exhaust system. But when I looked around for cams, I was told to buy all that other $#@!! along with the cams, which adds up to a few hundred extra $$, so I said NO THANKS!
I always thought the stock valves and springs couldn’t handle the extra thrust of the Crower cams??!? Won’t it wear down the stock valves & springs after a while?
And if you don’t tune yur car, won’t it all go to waste anyways?
Somebody please clear this up for me …
thanks for all the responses!
so i guess crower 403s is the way to go…
i should buy these new, right? if so, where can i get the best price for the cams?
how’s the install, what would i have to do?
and finally… can i sell my old cams to get some extra cash?
thanks, and i look forward to your response.
btw i have 88k miles, do i need to upgrade my valvetrain anytime?
I will say this. If you do cams before I/H/E you will be choking your motor. The motor stock is already choking, Honda made it that way to keep it quiet. But with performance cams, it’s a good idea for your motor to breathe (IN & OUT). So in my opinion, I/H/E should come first. You can do just cams, you just won’t see near the gains on a stock motor as with I/H/E. The mods help achieve overall hp, and let the cams do their job better. More “colder” air in, & nice unrestrictive flow out. Another good thing to do before doing cams is a fuel pressure regulator. Different cams require a different amount of fuel.
With all of that said, the intake manifold should be done after I/H/E but can be done before or after cams. You’ll see maybe a couple hp from it. But the more power you put through the motor, the more it will help. Please e-mail me if you have any questions.
wow, i guess the guru kinda put me in my place, lol.
But i still think i’d opt for intake and cams before i/h/e. I guess we’ll put my theory to the test when i swap in a motor without h/e.
91integGS-----see?
the only reason i’d personally do cams before header /exhaust is for sleeper purposes. but i’d rather be fast than sleeper. my 2 c. good luck with yer projects guys.