I had that problem too! When I bought my car I had a friend that worked at honda put it on the lift and we noticed the cv boots were all cracked. So I knew that they needed repalcing. So I replaced both of them. And like 4-6 months later…click click click…Damn! And I’m not even lowered:mad:
Yes they do have the lifetime warranty…and the good thing bout it is that they’ll put your name in the comp so you dont need the reciept when you exchange…and no it does not void the warranty if you car is mod…they wont even ask why you mess it up…and its like 70 bucks or sumthing plus core which is refundable…i used to work there thats why i kinda know…
ohhh smallville chick, damn that’s the only reason why i watch that show…i think it has a plot in there somewhere
I’m starting to feel like I’m on the Nestle Tollhouse discussion board.
Anyway, just curious, is replacing a worn axle difficult for an amateur or is something only a pro should attempt?
Mark, what do you consider excessive and seriously detrimental to axle life. About how many inches is your car lowered for daily use? For auto-x?
Leif
no one sells some better quality boots? i know theres a place that sells axles with new parts, but what about the boot. i wonder if theres a way to reinforce it (duct tape again?). youd think something that gets so much wear would be made tougher. having to change the entire axle just cuz the rubber boot cracks is suck
Originally posted by XDEep
no one sells some better quality boots? i know theres a place that sells axles with new parts, but what about the boot. i wonder if theres a way to reinforce it (duct tape again?). youd think something that gets so much wear would be made tougher. having to change the entire axle just cuz the rubber boot cracks is suck
Originally posted by leifintegra
Anyway, just curious, is replacing a worn axle difficult for an amateur or is something only a pro should attempt?
I did my driver’s side axle, with no problems (reman axle) … and I am not that experienced … was my biggest job so far 
It’s just removing a few bolts, pulling the lower joint apart, and prying the old axle out (C-clip). Passenger side is a little tougher, because you have to drain the tranny fluid. (this is for manual tranny)
thanks Ive. hm now does anyone sell axles with the duraboots already on… or if not, anyone know where to get the next best thing in orange county?
Hey Leif, I did it myself aswell and I didnt know how to do it at first, if u have the rights tools it should be no probs, I had to call Shea a couple times to get some pointers though…
Originally posted by XDEep
thanks Ive. hm now does anyone sell axles with the duraboots already on… or if not, anyone know where to get the next best thing in orange county?
Yes.
Stage 1
Stage 2
Louis had a group buy on them a couple months ago that is unfortunately over, but you can still inquire about them. They do use Duraboots on Stage 2 axels, but I’m not positive if they do on Stage 1 axels.
Archivethis
Originally posted by redlineintegra
Passenger side is a little tougher, because you have to drain the tranny fluid. (this is for manual tranny)
Not true at all. If you jack up that side of your car, and only that side of your car is will shift the fluid to the other side of the tranny so you dont have to drain it or spill any fluid.
Later,
BR
hm if the stage1 doesnt have duraboots, you think its still worth 150? i basically have a stock gs so theres no threat there…
now if hte autozone one lasts a year or so for 70 , and the stage1 lasts 5 years or more, id rather fork up the 150 now…
Not true at all. If you jack up that side of your car, and only that side of your car is will shift the fluid to the other side of the tranny so you dont have to drain it or spill any fluid.
Damn straight Jason. I found that out by accident;) Hella good tip!
Oh really? hmm … will have to remember that one … 