comió mi dedo del pie e hizo girar una vez mis neumáticos.
he/she ate your toe and you rotated your finger?
stop using spanish translators n00b
you linked me to it.
sabatos
holy crap this has gone way off topic.
so how bout those b16’s aye?
Virgins
Take
Easy
Chicks
<–Virgin
thats all i could think of with those odd letters. :giggle:
Vow
To
Ejaculate
Chiropractors?
Very
Toxic
Expired
Cheese
viagra
totally
enlarged
cock?
u listening to any music?
yea…
no.
y not? i got that sublime playin…
I GOT DAT BONG NAH!!!
my name is tap sum bong!
If I go all motor, then I am doing a B16A. I drive like a granny, and that is plenty of power for when you are on public roads. At the track, you just feather the clutch while on the edge of breaking the tires loose in 1st, and when you go to redline and shift, you drop to about 5500. Even though you drop this much, you still never drop in the power band so much as to the LS has more power at that RPM. The B16A (r/s for high RPMS, oil pump, cams ect)is IMO opinion a good track motor, and the B18A ( r/s not bad, but not as good as the B16’s, oil pump not as beefy) is IMO a good daily driver motor.
But in the end, I am doing a B16A swap. Then I am going to rebuild my LS block, with .25 over rings on Pr3, berrings, ARP bolts all around, spoon oil pump, Mugen oil pan, micro polished crank, balanced, and OEM honda gaskets and t-belt kit. After that, when It comes time to do work (I.E clutch, t-belt, blown motor, ect), then I am going to swap the blocks and use either turbo edit or Apex V-AFC to tune it.
i think this post needs to be closed. its kind getting off topic and now i know not to ask questions like this, sorry but this was almsot a month ago when i was 100% n00b. im still a n00b now, id say prolly 50%. lol
No
One
Needs
Variable Lift,
Timing or
Electronic
Control
just displacement