alright, so here it is…
this started thursday, i drove my car once that day for about 30 minutes. Parked it in the garage and left it overnight, tried to use it the next day and the CEL stays on(tried retrieving the code but stayed at zero). flicked the MFR a few times and it didnt do anything(always worked before,it clicked once at the ON position).
It’ll click once but the fuel pump doesnt turn on or prime.
anyways, this is what i did so far with some extensive research and i kind of have an idea of what it can be, but any other ideas would be of good help.
-re-soldered the original mfr(still same problem, CEL stays on, no fuel pump priming)
-got 2 MFR’s from the junkyard today and tried both of them. still the same thing as above.
-checked all fuses, ECU, grounds for the ecu, etc. all checked in fine.
-bypassed the MFR connector(pins 1-battery, 7-fuel pump, 3-ECU/injectors) still same problem as above. BUT fuel pump turns on and stays on due to bypass. CEL still at ZERO code(constantly on) car wont start. i can smell fuel in the engine bay so i know the injectors are getting fuel but no start when trying to crank.
so im concluding that my ECU is dead/bad.
because i bypassed pins 1,7,3 and fuel pump kicks in but car doesnt start when i crank it and the cel is on constantly. When i try to retrieve the code it doesnt blink, just stays on.(most likely bad ecu)
anyone else have a similar problem to mine and can chime in on it?
anyother reasons why the ecu would show a zero code?
WOW. You have me scratching my head right now. Umm,it might just be the ECU but did you check the spark at all? Just a long shot. But id go get a used ECU and test it. Or unplug the battery and let it set and see if it will reset itself.:shrug:
I had the same problem when i did my build on the obd1 car same thing then i found out it was the ecu i didnt have the money so i went obd0 as i had it all just sitting there switch the ecu an you should be ok my was
yah, ive been scratching mine too… lol
took my ecu out and took it apart… looked at the pins within the ecu and there is some black gooey/gunky stuff around it… is that a sign the ecu can be bad?
if the ecu is throwing a zero code, wouldnt that make the car not get any spark?
just curious, or can it have something to do with the distributor?
because i did some research and read that a zero code = bad ecu… -.-
ughh…
that being said, if the ECU is bad, then the 2nd click on the MFR wouldnt go on right? since the relay isnt recieving the signal from the ecu.
[QUOTE=iRockTheDA9;2177356]yah, ive been scratching mine too… lol
took my ecu out and took it apart… looked at the pins within the ecu and there is some black gooey/gunky stuff around it… is that a sign the ecu can be bad?
if the ecu is throwing a zero code, wouldnt that make the car not get any spark?
just curious, or can it have something to do with the distributor?
because i did some research and read that a zero code = bad ecu… -.-
ughh…
that being said, if the ECU is bad, then the 2nd click on the MFR wouldnt go on right? since the relay isnt recieving the signal from the ecu.[/QUOTE]
Like i said. IDFK lol. It sounds like the ECU but the car ran good the day before so. The black stuff can be from the solder residue getting hot. Is the car leaking at all on that side? I no my car dose and i had to rap the ECU tell i could fix it.
yah, its leaked water there before but never got on the ecu.
has carpet over plus the metal cover pluss a floor matt.
for the past 4 years ive had this car, the ecu has never gotten wet.
what are the common problems of an ecu going bad?
age is all i can think of.
so quick question. now im pretty confident its my ecu,
my question is, having too much current going to the ecu can blow it, but before that can happen the ecu fuse in the engine bay will go out before it reaches the ecu correct?
might be a dumb question but just making sure.
ive checked my ecu fuse a few times and its good. so im sure my ecu didnt go bad due to having too much current.
oh, by the way. i tried what you said.
disconnected the battery and took the ecu fuse out for a couple minutes… more like 10 minutes.
put everything back in and samething. :[
1 click on the relay, no prime, check light stays on. no start.
gay.
[QUOTE=iRockTheDA9;2177371]so quick question. now im pretty confident its my ecu,
my question is, having too much current going to the ecu can blow it, but before that can happen the ecu fuse in the engine bay will go out before it reaches the ecu correct?
might be a dumb question but just making sure.
ive checked my ecu fuse a few times and its good. so im sure my ecu didnt go bad due to having too much current.[/QUOTE]
Depend. You might have a bigger fuse in its spot or something in the ECU just didn’t have the strength to power it back on and fried.
its obd1, i dont know anyone around my area with an integra. lol
my friend has an ej1, i can try and plug my ecu in his car to see if it atleast primes and maybe try and start the car. if that doesnt work then im sure my ecu is done.
no, i have the jdm b18b.
but pretty much the same shit.
and no, i dont have a jumper harness…
just really hoping to find someone with an obd1 car that i can try mine on vise versa. before i take my ecu in to get fixed.
i found a local shop that can fix the ecu for me.
i did some research online and i found that the common part that goes out in the ecu is the capacitor on the computer board(c14).
the guy said he can change it and put a new one in for 7 bucks.
and im going to get it chipped for 20 bucks with a custom basemap… might aswell since my ecu is going to be opend up and worked on… lol
If the injectors do not get power the CEL will stay on and will not go off. Are you sure you are getting power to the injectors? Why are you smelling fuel in the engine bay from the car just priming? I have never smelled that much fuel from just keeping my car at the on position. Do you have a Fuel pressure regulator?
what your misunderstanding is that i bypassed the mfr connector so that the fuel pump constantly stays on without needing the ecu to tell it to.
so when i bypassed it, the pump kept pumping and i tried to start the car and there was no start, but the engine kept turning. apparently i was getting no spark, i smelled fuel in the engine bay due to the fact that the fuel pump was constantly on even if the engine wasnt turning(bypass). but the car didnt start and the CEL didnt go away.
Today i took my ecu in to get it repaired and the guy replaced the capacitor and the CEL still stayed on like nothing happend. When the guy told me he put it on the simulator after he fixed it, it still showed as a bad ecu. He told me he can go try and start replacing a bunch of stuff but it’d be too time consuming and money when i can just go get another one for like 50 bucks.
in question to your statement, if the injectors werent getting power, would that cause my relay to just click once at the “ON” position? or the injectors have nothing to do with my MFR.
alright, so i solved this whole problem.
i bought another ecu obd1 pr4(auto)
car starts and works fine now with the exception of the CEL going on after 5 min of driving due to the ecu being for an automatic. Other then that, the car runs great. im going to get the ecu chipped for manual soon.
before i went and bought this ecu, i tested my ecu on another 92-93 integra and it didnt start.
so for anyone having similar problems as what i went through, this is something to look into.