I need help with wiring.I’m doing B16a (2nd gen)swap into 90 teggy .I got OBD0-OBD1 adapter and p30 ECU. Vtec , O2 and knock sensors are not wired in yet.The motor does not start up and I’m geting bunch of codes: all of the mentioned above sensors and Electric Load Detector.I searched in Teg Tips and there is no pin out for the Electric Load Detector(there is also no pin out for O2 sensor:werd: )
She should fire up with out above mentioned sensors…:argh:
Electric Load Detector from p30 is going(through OBD0-OBD1 adapter) to pinout B19 on the car wich is P/S oil pressure.
Does the motor even try to crank? Is it making any noises whatsoever when you turn the key? Even if the ECU is not connected at all, the motor will still try to crank. Please explain more on what it is and what it isn’t doing.
If it isn’t cranking at all, check your wiring to the battery and make sure the engine is grounded out to the chasis. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
It the motor is cranking but not starting, use your old PR4 and plug it back in and see if the motor starts up. If it does, then the problem is in your ECU or wiring adapter. If it doesn’t and the motor is still cranking, check to see if you have fuel and if it’s getting to the cylinder. If you don’thave fuel, check to see if your fuel lines are crimped, if your fuel filter is connected correctly and not clogged, and if your fuel pump is working. If it is, check to see if you have a spark. If you don’t have a spark, check to see if your wires are still good. check your rotor and cap. Also check to see if your coil is good and then finally check to see if your igniter is working. Let me know if you want me to tell you just how to check all of these.
I guess I didn’t see thatyou were using a second generation B16a. You probably can’t really plug up the Pr4, but if the connections are still the same, I’d give it a shot.
I’m geting fuel,battary got juce and the motor is cranking.I’m not geting any spark(I used an old sparkplug,pluged it into the spark-wire and grounded the threaded area of the spark-plug).
After cranking the motor with p30 and living keys in the ignition(“on” position) there is a strange noise coming from the engine bay.It sounds some-what like a fuel pump(high pitch) but it’s coming from the engine bay:shrug:.I tryed pr4 ECU, no dice there,but there is no noise ater cranking:think: .
By now I triple checked my wires and all of the connections(except for vtec,O2 and knock sensors)
Can you please tell me how to chek my distributor components(coil,igniter…)Thanks alot.
i really wouldn’t be surprised if it was the ignition coil. pretty much the same exact thing happened to me. I put the motor in the car, wiring everything up and went to crank it… it’d turn over, i got fuel, but no spark. Plugs were new, wires were fine. I replaced the cap and rotor because they were old…still no spark. I followed the helms manual on diagnosing the ignition problem, it was a little ambiguous as to what it meant, but it pretty much said it was most likely the coil. I later talked to dan about it and he couldn’t think of anything else it could be.
i replaced the coil, and wala, it started right up. go through the tests in the helms manual, and unless the coil is giving perefect readings i’d try replacing that.
I’m not sure about that othe code though.
Oh, and yes there are pins on th ecu for the O2 sensor. I wish i was at my house because i could tell you exactly where each wire from the O2 sensor is supposed to be pinned. I know one goes to A6, another goes to D14. But w/o all the papers i have i can’t tell you for sure which go where, the other 2 wires also pin to the ecu. You can download a pinout sheet from here on g2ic as well as look at this one: http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=p30_obd1 Just realize that the wire colors they give are not necessarily correct, some will be, but many won’t be.
I’m a complete idiot when it comes to cars so I didn’t know what was what in a Honda distributor. Every car I’ve ever seen (American cars) has an external coil. So anyway here’s a way to check it out.
Unscrew the screws to the distributor cap and move it out of the way. That big black thing with the two plus and minus wires sticking out of it on the very top, it has four screws holding it in, that’s the coil. You can test for resistance and continuity by using a multimeter (resistance should equal .6 - .8 Ohms) or you can just take the whole thing out and bring it to a parts store and have them test it for you. I didn’t know that they could test that stuff so I ended up buying a whole new one before I found out that that wasn’t the problem. (Um…I have a used one to sell 
) Anyway, if you’re going to get that tested out, you might as well take out the ignitor and have that tested out too. The ignitor is a small brown square shaped item on the bottom radiator side of the distributor. It will probably have the NEC symbol on it if it is stock. To take that out, you will have to unplug all the wires (remember which goes where even though it’s not really a big deal since they really are too short to be wired up incorrectly). The screws to take the ignitor out is located on the underside of the distributor. If you can imagine the square shape of the ignitor, just follow along until you feel two screws, one at each corner. They are awkward to get to. Unscrew both of those an the ignitor will pull out with little effort. If you’re pulling hard and it’s not coming out, you undid the wrong screws (like I did). Take both of them and have them tested. Here’s something to keep in mind when having them both tested: Even though they may test out good, they may still be faulty–especially the ignitor. The store cannot compensate for the environment of your car. The store tested my ignitor as good and my car still wouldn’t start. I went ahead and replaced the ignitor and there hasn’t been a problem since. So, both can have intermittent problems due to car environment. Hopefully this gets your running.
Meng
O.K. I was able to borow OBD1 GSR distributer and she came to life! I also got the instructions on how to check the ignition coil and it give me corect ohm reading. Most likely the igniter is dead. I have MSD external coil(I just need the distributer cap for it) so I’m not wored about that. I looked for the igniter and I found one at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=DEL+SOL&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=2DR+V-TEC+ABS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=DISTRIBUTOR+(TEC) Majestic Honda for $150:whoa:
Is that how much they cost? That sucks…Any advice? Once again,thaks alot for help
Originally posted by vtec it
:for $150:whoa:
Is that how much they cost? That sucks…Any advice? Once again,thaks alot for help
yups… they are.
Or you could just go to a local parts store. They’ll have it for about $100. I bought mine with a Sears discount for $70 so retail should be about $120
Oh sh*t. I already ordered it.Oh well,the lesson is learned:do not rush. The price of the lesson $80.
code 20
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life, but this same exact problem just happened to me yesterday. My car would also make a strange noise in the “on” postion. However when i push start the car it will start but it’ll shut off if let off the gas. Also right before this problem happened, i got a CEL for a code 20 Electric Load Detector. Could my problem also be the distributor? My distributor only has about 20k miles on it