does anyone know where i can find a itr 5 lug swap for sale
answer=search
Well it will have to be modded to fit on the da either way. So if you want to be 36mm just go grab some crv/prelude front hubs and have the milled down. Then throw on some prelude rear hubs and get all the rest of the matching pieces to get it all to work. There are like 4-5 sets of itr 5 lug suspensions up for sale in Houston. Cheaper to piece it together yourself.
Got it from this website: http://www.highaltitudeimports.com/threads/76037-HOW-TO-5-Lug-ITR-swap-to-EF-and-DA
WHY?
The Integra Type R 5 lug brake conversion is popular amongst EG, DC, and EK owners, whether it be for the OEM quality bolt-on brake upgrade or to fit the 5x114 bolt-pattern variety of wheels on their cars. The conversion offers 282mm diameter rotors up front and 260mm rotors in the rear. This is roughly 1" more all around than a stock Integra. Not only that, but the front calipers are significantly larger (although still the single-piston sliding type). The reason you don’t see this conversion on DA’s and EF’s very often is because it is not a true bolt-on procedure. But it’s not painful. I’ll show you how to do it. Read on for installation procedures.
The Three-Line Explanation :
- The rear bolts up.
- Machine the itr hubs to fit the DA/EF bearings.
- If you have an EF, use civic EX (4 door) or Si-R knuckles.
Not good enough? Then keep reading...
PARTS LIST FOR DA AND EF
DAEFEntire 5 lug conversion from a wrecked ITR (you don't need the control arms, but they're nice to have).Entire 5 lug conversion from a wrecked ITR (you don't need the control arms, but they're nice to have).Set of 5x114 wheelsSet of 5x114 wheelsNew DA front wheel bearingsNew 90-91 EX wheel bearingsFront knuckles from 90-91 EX or EF Si-R 4040 proportioning valve from DA
OR
DA
EFComplete rear ITR trailing armsComplete rear ITR trailing armsFront ITR hubsFront ITR hubsFront ITR/Accord Wagon/Prelude calipers and rotorsFront ITR/Accord Wagon/Prelude calipers and rotorsSet of 5x114 wheelsSet of 5x114 wheelsNew DA front wheel bearingsNew 90-91 EX wheel bearingsFront knuckles from 90-91 EX or EF Si-R 4040 proportioning valve from DA
NOTE: Stock ITR wheels are 15x6 +50 offset, while GS-R wheels are 15x6 +45 offset. This is because the ITR hubs push the track out 5mm on all four corners. If you're not using the stock ITR wheels, make sure the spokes will clear the front calipers. Lower offset doesn't necessarily mean it will clear (spoke design is a much bigger factor). Prices on used car parts vary dramatically. EF owners... figure out whatever axle spline issues you're going to have before you get started.
PICS OF EVERYTHING YOU NEED CAN BE FOUND AT THE LINK
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...es2fh2TApV1_zw#
1_rotors1.jpg1_calipers1.jpg1_pads.jpg1_parts.jpg1_rotors2.jpg
NOTE: Although the ITR caliper is still a single-piston design, the caliper and the piston are much bigger than the stock DA. Also, the front brake pads are very similar in size, but when measured, the ITR pad has more surface area.
INSTALATION OF REAR COMPONETS
This part of the install is quite literally a bolt on process. The e-brake cables from the Type R are unnecessary if you have a DA. If you have an EF with drums in the rear, you will need some form of Integra cables. When you switch over the trailing arms, just undo the cables and reattach to the new arms. If you look under your trailing arms on the car, there are two bolts underneath the arm on each side holding it to the chassis. There is also another bolt that holds the compensator arm to the chassis. After undoing these, only the rear upper and lower control arms and the brake lines are holding it onto the car. It's still questionable whether or not you can use your stock brake lines on all four corners... if you can, make sure your 5 lug comes with the brake lines. The ITR ones work fine (great, even). After comparing, the ITR rear upper control arms appeared to be the exact same dimensions as the DA one. If your setup came with the ITR ones, use them. Newer bushings are good.
Special Note: I've probably been asked this same question more than a dozen times... "Don't I HAVE to use the ITR springs/shocks and control arms?" NO! For the love of poo, just use your current springs, shocks and rear LCA's! They bolt onto the ITR trailing arm just fine! Please don't ask this question anymore!
Extra Note: The geometry of the actual physical ITR trailing arm does differ from the DA one slightly, but ultimately, all the bolt holes line up perfectly with the chassis and after the much needed wheel alignment that follows this conversion, the geometry difference will not be an issue.
**well since i can only do five attachments per post evrything elese will be links to my picasa album**
so when you done installing the rear it should look like this http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
MACHINE SHOP TIME!
This is where the 5 lug conversion ceases to be a bolt-on procedure, but rest assured, if done properly, your conversion will have OEM fit and quality.
Hydro Presses Are Fun: Ultimately, you will need to wind up with hubless DA/EF(Si-R/EX) knuckles and bare ITR hubs. Take all your junk down to the machine shop and have them press all the hubs and bearings out of whatever knuckles you have. Don't throw anything away quite yet.
NOTE: for DA Owners: If you can, try to get yourself a spare pair of DA knuckles instead of reusing the ones on your car. First of all, people seem to just be giving these away and secondly, you'd be minimizing the amount of downtime your car has. Also, depending on how you do it, you might only need to make one trip to the machine shop.
pics to this can be found threw this link
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
While the hubs and bearings are out of the DA/EF(Si-R/EX) knuckles, now's the time to decide what to do with the dust/splash shields. You can either cut your stock ones, move over the ITR ones (the screw holes line up perfectly), or just leave them off altogether. Any of these are fine. In the second picture, note the offset difference between the two hubs.
SHAVE THOSE HUBS:
Before you do this, it's important to know why you have to do this. The DA/EF(Si-R/EX) wheel bearings have a different inner and outer diameter than the DC/EG/EK (and ITR) wheel bearings, which means the shaft of the hub is of a different diameter as well. This is why you can't just press out the DA/EF(Si-R/EX) hubs and press in the ITR ones.
This is the tried and true method. What I did was bring my old DA hubs, new and old DA bearings, and ITR hubs to the machine shop. They spec'ed the diameter of the shaft of the DA hub and put my ITR hubs on a crank grinder to be machined down to the appropriate size. I can't remember the exact figure, but they took off somewhere around 3mm off the diameter of the shaft of the ITR hubs. Despite what I say, you or the machine shop should measure your bearings/hubs.
A fter this, have the new pair of DA/EF(Si-R/EX) wheel bearings pressed into your DA/EF(Si-R/EX) knuckles. Then have your newly machined ITR hubs pressed into these said bearings. Here's the part number for the DA bearings (trivia: same part number for late 80's Prelude).
photos for this are numbers3-5at this link
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
MOUNTING THE KNUCKLES:
Begin by removing your old knuckles. On each side, remove the axle nut (having an air gun makes this quite a bit easier). After that, undo the brake line from the chassis hardline and catch all the dripping brake fluid. Next, remove the 3 cotter pins and castle nuts to separate the 3 ball joints (one for each control arm and one for the tie rod). The knuckle should then be free from the car.
Installing your new 5 lug knuckles is the exact reverse of removal. Make sure you use your stock DA/EF upper and lower control arms.
Idiot's ask: "Why can't I just use the stock Type R knuckles and avoid all this machining?" The main reason is the difference in the curvature of the steering knuckles as shown: at the link photos 6-7
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
If you use the DC2 knuckles, you'll wind up with some pretty severe alignment issues in the front (massive amounts of negative caster and positive camber).
Anyway, now your 5 lug knuckles should be mounted to your car. Time to see if the machining and pressing was done properly.
RUN-OUT TEST:
If you look at your FSM, you'll see the runout spec for the hubs is 0.002". What this means is that when you spin the hub, the surface of the hub should remain nearly perfectly flat. If your bearing is bad or the machining is off, the surface of the hub will wobble and cause premature wear/warpage of the rotors. What you do is set up a dial gauge and mount it to your knuckle. The needle should not move anymore than 0.002".
pics: 8-9
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
If you're looking for a cheap dial gauge and magnetic base stand, I picked up both at Harbor Freight on sale for $17 total. Made in Chiiina, but gets the job done and can't beat the price!
FINISHING UP THE FRONTS:
Now that your runout is nice and in spec, pop your rotors on and screw them down. Load up your calipers with pads and bolt those on. Finally, attach the brake lines.
pics: 10-11
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
The first picture is a comparison between the fully assembled stock DA knuckle and ITR-spec DA knuckle. The last picture is what it should look like after you're all done.
PROPORTIONING:
EF owners... get yourself a 4040 proportioning valve from a wrecked DA to gain the proper front/rear brake biasing. DA owners... rejoice. You're done! Bleed the hell out of your brake system as specified by the FSM and go for a test drive (go slow... it'd be a shame to find out your brakes don't work when you're driving 55+mph).
here is some pics of what itll look like on a DA
http://picasaweb.google.com/10813540...eat=directlink
hope you like!!!http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1978033
Search my posts in that thread for reference to our chassis. Ive had my setup on for almost a year but its only been driven less then 100 miles.