I recently bought these to replace my worn bushing arms.
When first installed, I could only tighten the ball joint so far, it was as if the ball joint was to long, ran out of threads and wouldn’t tighten anymore.
This causing the wheels to be sloppy along with steering.
I replaced both front lower ball joints with OEM ball joints and I’m having the same issue.
Once the lower nut won’t tighten anymore I have like 1/2" of threads below the nut.
The nut won’t tighten and spins with ball joint.
I’ve tried tightening with the suspension loaded, same issue.
These arms have inserts in the arms at the ball joint but can really go in one way.
Running out of ideas here, anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
It’d be helpful if you posted some pics. I saw some pics online of the metal spacers and it appears that each arm requires 2 spacers. Judging by the pics you’d have to have really long ball joints for this not to work. Perhaps you’re missing half of the spacers?
I do have both washers installed, the bottom one is tapered so it can only go in one way, if not the ball joint wouldn’t go into the arm at all.
I have them installed but ill get a pic showing how far passed the nut the threads sit.
Thanks
Hmm, that seems odd. Definitely take some pics. When you say that the spacer is tapered, do you mean that the outside is tapered or the inside? If the inside is tapered then it seems to me that this should go on the top. The ball joint would insert into the tapered spacer and exit through the non tapered one.
After looking at some pics it looks to me like the spacer with a large hole goes on top (where you insert the ball joint) and the spacer with the small hole goes on the bottom (the nut for the ball joint will tighten up against this spacer).
bit of info, everyone has that issue and just been adding washers to close the gap
but most importantly. aluminum front control arms is a bad idea. that is not a part you want made out of anything other than steel… you are definitely better off throwing those in the trash and putting some new bushings in your stock lca…
It’s been awhile since I’ve installed ball joints but don’t you have to hit them with an impact? Once the nut starts getting tight it just spends the ball joint rather setting into place.
Please correct me if I’m wrong.
[QUOTE=powerofthemonks;2334329]It’s been awhile since I’ve installed ball joints but don’t you have to hit them with an impact? Once the nut starts getting tight it just spends the ball joint rather setting into place.
Please correct me if I’m wrong.[/QUOTE]
You shouldn’t need an impact to tighten them I’ve never used one to do so.
I understand, but I would see if that works before adding washers to fill the gap. Also pictures would definitely be helpful.
It doesn’t sound like he’s having a problem with it tightening and then spinning which isn’t allowing him to tighten it further. He specifically stated that he ran out of threads, so if there are not more threads left then using an impact will not accomplish anything, well, other than potentially damaging and stripping the threads.
Thanks for the input fellas.
An impact gun is not needed, like said I’m just out of threads.
The washer trick possibly would work but didn’t really wanna rig it up like that.
Their video shows no issues and not having this problem and that’s where I’m lost.
Colin, you are probably correct but he did say “as if” he ran out of threads. If there are threads left an impact will help.
Sirtef, do you still have the old ball joints? Have you compared them side to side? are the threads the same distance from the bushing? Is the j2 as thick as oem? If the new ball joint is longer or the J2’s thinner, I would throw a washer the size of the difference in there and if everything matches up I would hit it with the impact (gently) .
Damn and I have a set of these at home waiting to be put on.
[QUOTE=powerofthemonks;2334348]Colin, you are probably correct but he did say “as if” he ran out of threads. If there are threads left an impact will help.
Sirtef, do you still have the old ball joints? Have you compared them side to side? are the threads the same distance from the bushing? Is the j2 as thick as oem? If the new ball joint is longer or the J2’s thinner, I would throw a washer the size of the difference in there and if everything matches up I would hit it with the impact (gently) .[/QUOTE]
They looked a little different but nothing crazy.
I did try the impact but that doesn’t do anything, it is out of threads.
I’m gonna try washers this weekend, if it fixes it then the company needs to know about this issue.
If that pic you just posted is of your car then yeah, it looks like it doesn’t have anything to do with their spacers. The only way the spacer would be screwing this up is if the nut was actually going INTO the hole in the spacer. Sounds like the end of the arm isn’t machined to be the right thickness. I wonder if it’s just a glitch on the file for the DA arms or if it’s on all of the ones they sell.
I did send them pictures hopefully they have an answer. I’ll update
Thanks again guys
Well 2 hours later and I’m convinced these are pieces of shit.
Tried washers, no real change.
I sat and looked at anything to try and nothing other then I just got the wrong arms.
Customer service sucks balls, 1 response on 4 emails with pictures. Wrote the guy who sells them on Honda-tech and amazon where purchased.:mad:
I’m just gonna get some stock arms, re bushing them then throw these away.
230$ loss on my end.
Read this before buying.
[QUOTE=Sirtef9;2334573]Well 2 hours later and I’m convinced these are pieces of shit.
Tried washers, no real change.
I sat and looked at anything to try and nothing other then I just got the wrong arms.
Customer service sucks balls, 1 response on 4 emails with pictures. Wrote the guy who sells them on Honda-tech and amazon where purchased.:mad:
I’m just gonna get some stock arms, re bushing them then throw these away.
230$ loss on my end.
Read this before buying.[/QUOTE]
Damn that sucks. Poor customer service is the worst.
WAO! thank god!! i did not buy these… i was very close to order a set couple weeks back but changed my mind! glad i did .
i kept the stock one and upgrade with Energy suspension bushings.
Yea very bummed I wasted time and money on these just to have my car down.
Oh well, lesson learned.
I’m gonna get some OEM arms and replace those bushings.
Hey guys i was scrolling through and saw your issue.
the answer you are serching for is the Outside diameter of the start of the taper of the ball joint right where the threads stop is larger than the inside diameter of the lower bushing, not allowing the ball joint to pass through the bushing and “lock up”.
a quick fix would be to get a caliper or micrometer and measure the inside diameter of your OEM lower control arm and find the identical size drill bit and bore out the lower bushing J2 engineering provides.
further more, ive noticed the j2 arm is wider than OEM and with the ball joint taper not being long enough to pass all the way through the arm and its poses a problem. ive removed the boot and am able to slide the larger bushing almost all the way up and then the joint has very little movement. curious if OEM honda/ acura lower ball joints are longer than common parts stores?