anyone here done the 96 spec itr 4x114 brake conversion?
what’s all involved?
do i just press the hub/bearing into my original knuckle/ trailing arms?
are the bearings the same size?
hmm. but then the caliper placement would be off, no?
thanks, g2ic
NM. got it all sorted out. bearings are same size. caliper location is same. rotor is same size.
srv rotors and 98 itr calipers FTW!
k, well i’m getting mixed info on the rear spindles and front hub.
anyone who has done this conversion please let me know if the hub fits into the da knuckle. or if the 96 itr knuckle is the same as da, or can be used and offset with a camber kit. or whether the caster will be messed.
also, is the rear spindle on the DA too short for this conversion? will i need to use the 96 itr spindles?
as always, much appreciated
well, best way that i seem to have heard it explained would be to use the inner part of the bearing of the 96 itr hub and the outer from my da. the bearing should come apart with 2 cups as the inner, ball and cage, then an outer bearing. pretty sure i recall taking one apart before.
looks like i’m just rallying back and forth to myself in this thread. lol
I don’t know anything about this swap, but doing a quick search shows that a few places have actual bearing measurements in the product description. So first you’ll have to assume that the bearing used on a 96 ITR is the same on other integras. That particular site doesn’t list dimentions for DA replacement bearings, but you should be able to find them by calling around or browsing around.
So what that will do is tell you if this is feasible in the way that you want to do it. Then, just order a bearing that is the proper width (whatever you decide that should be) has the outer diameter of an OEM DA bearing and the inner diameter of a ITR bearing.
Hopefully that at least helps your brainstorming,
Robin
:search:
if you cant do that then ill spoon feed you
4lug same as 5lug
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/how-to/5lug.ef-da/
your welcome
awwww shit. i remember what i did now. i actually had this swap before on one of my da’s back in the day. i used the 96 knuckles and maxed out my camber kit. was so long ago i’d forgotten.
thanks for the info though. i do appreciate it. and i did actually search. quite extensively, i might add. but was searching the 96 4x114 swap threads, as they differ from the 98+ 5x114. specifically the knuckles curvature, like he was saying. that’s why i was able to use the 96’s in my da.
thanks, homies. will let you know how things turn out, if anybody cares
bump!
would like to know how it turns out.
Planning to go on 4x114.3 conversion due to the insanely cheap 4x114.3 rims =)
turned out great, bro. you’ll need a front camber kit that allows for negative camber adjustment though, as the itr knuckles will give you positive camber. they also sit a little taller, so you dump the hell out of it without hammering your strut towers. i’ve got about a 1 finger gap with 50 series tires and my control arms don’t really hit the towers, unless i hit some hard dips, of course.
the trailing arms were a straight bolt in
scored a set of prelude sr-v calipers and rotors for 20$, so those are going in pretty soon
Did you do an alignment afterwards? I’m really curious about your alignment specs for the front. I’ve read that using the front ITR knuckles will really mess up the geometry of you front suspension. If this can be corrected with just a camber kit, then that would be alot easier than having to machine the ITR hub to fit the DA knuckle. If you do an alignment, can you please post the results? Camber, caster, toe and all?
yea, car took an alignment just fine. don’t have the sheets here with me, but i remember the spec i had it set at. this was with the skunk2 UCA
front: -1* camber, 3* caster, 0* toe
used the spc rear UCA and spec was set at pretty much the same as the front, aside from caster.
if you don’t use a front camber kit, it will throw off the camber and make it positive. the skunk2 UCA’s are notoriously garbage, specifically the ball joint/boot (had to replace mine before i took it in), but the replacement UBJ is fairly cheap. it also provided the most negative adjustment of any camber kits i could find. spc also makes an adjustable UBJ that would suit the needs as well, but the adjusting nut at the top of the joint tends to dig into the strut tower if you go relatively low. i actually ended up massaging my towers with an air chisel and blunt bit, then spraying with some undercoating. it did help a bit.
remember though, this is for the 4x114 96 spec knuckles. 5 lug knuckles are different, and i don’t think they can be fitted in this manner