Hey everyone I am planning an engine build for my newly aquired 92 gsr. I was hoping some people with experience building na motors or track cars could give me some advice. I have a jdm b18c type r block that I was told burns oil. I am mating that to a b16a xsi head from my 90da. The car is going to be used primarily for road race/time attack, but will see some street driving from time to time. My goal is hopefully close to 200whp. Here is my build list so far:
Block: jdm b18c type r
- stock crank
- Brian crower lightweight rods
- JE 81.5mm pistons (12:1 cr)
- ACL race bearings
- new type r oil pump
- moroso race oil pan
Head: jdm b16a obd0
- ARP head studs
- Cometic head gasket
- porting?
- brain crower valvetrain
- brian crower stage 2 or stage 3 cams
- skunk 2 cam gears
- skunk 2 LMA’s
- skunk 2 intake manifold
- skunk 2 alpha series throttle body
- skunk 2 composite fuel rail
- hondata thermal intake gasket
- RDX or Rc injectors
Hondata or AEM standalone?
Thoughts on that combo? Cometic or Oem headgasket? Would I be better of using new itr pistons and reusing the stock rods? I was hoping with the slight overbore and compression increase 200whp might be realistic. I will be using a S1 short geared trans with it and I hope it will be a big step up from the b16 in my 90. Any experienced input is appreciated, thanks in advance.
Thoughts anyone? I’ve done some more reading and decided to go with OEM headgasket. Still not sure if I should use forged pistons or rods? Opinions on stage 2 or 3 cams?
I wouldnt run either of those cams, Pro 2’s are always a good fall back, especially for that c/r
Rebuild bottom end with new stock oem parts they can do the job fine. Omniman built a 200whp b16 with built stock bottom end. Save your self some cash to spend on the head. Get the moroso pan if your going track.
ARP head studs are nice to have.
You can go with a slightly thinner head gasket maybe 0.020 i would suggest maybe flat bottom valve as well, its a easy way to get c.r without risking valve to piston problems.
As whitesihatch said Pro 2s would be ideal with matching valve train. Get the head ported around that profile.
Throttle body anywhere from 64mm to 70 wouldn’t go past that, and skunk2 manifold.
Composite fuel rail if you have extra cash a the end.
Rc disc injectors.
And Hondata.
Try get a copy of Omniman 200whp b16a dvd. Steve does a good job of showing 200whp is possible with stock parts and money put where it counts. All on a engine 200cc less than yours. They actually end up achieving 207whp.
So 200 hp on a b16a, what’s his torque at? I’d like to see the comparison of a b18c itr and his.
Oh and the valves need some love to so how about a 5 angle cut.
The block looks fine to me… while you font “need” rods or pistons, they are a good addition because they free up weight, and the floating wrist-pin can lower friction values, compared to the press-fit pins of the stock setup. I’d throw in ARP main bolts just to be on the safe side though.
However I’d recomend an OE headgasket… the compression gained from a thinner gasket is so miniscule that I wouldn’t even bother with that.
Skunk2 Pro1s would be a great cam setup, and the idle can be dialed in pretty damn well, with a good tuner.
The additional injectors and fuel rail aren’t totally needed… but the stock injectors max out right around 200whp so, I suppose they wouldn’t hurt.
The Omni B16 is awesome, but yes it only throws down ~115tq, and also revs to the moon. Slightly different story when talking about a B18C.
Here is what a 200whp b16 dyno graph looks like:
And a screen-cap of the mod list:
As I said, fun build but most ITRs aren’t going to rev to 9,500 (nor do they have to). With the added displacement, vtec crossover would be a bit sooner and torque would be a lot higher.
But similar mods (with a good tuner) should be very close to 200whp in a B18C.
Honestly OP, you have a good compression ratio thus far. I would invest the money in the Skunk2 ultra Street intake manifold, 70mm tb. RDX injectors, Rc is outdated. At least Pro2 cams. Thats it as far as the motor.
I would really focus my money in this build on the gearing, this will make the most amount of difference. I see you have the s1 trans which is cool, but I would opt for a hybrid gear set with a shorter final drive, say a 4.9… Either way the car is going to pull like a freight train.
