whats up guys im going to do a swap this month and planning on the jdm b20b low comp from attarco for 450 shipped. i want to hear peoples opinions on the low comp b20b who are running it whats your set up and is it still better than the ls motor also its going in my 91 da wit 335k. when i do this swap im planning on a ebay catback, 4-1 headers, short ram intake, aftermarket manifold with 68mm tb. so let me know what you guys think of your low comp b20b. thanks for looking
Compression isn’t the end-all be-all when it comes to making good power.
Half a point of compression (8.8:1 of the low-comp B20 compared to 9.2:1 of the B18A) is not enough to make you say “God this feels like it has low compression”
With the difference in torque curve it should feel ‘sportier’ in the bottom end, but it wont rev as high so it might feel like its struggling as it approaches redline.
My tuner said the difference in power between a mid-compression NA build and a high-compression NA build (Given everything else is identical), you’d see maybe a 2% increase. Its nothing to go crazy over.
Just get the b20z. I hear alot of good reviews. But I have not experienced it…$650 picked up in LA…146 hp…
i have a b20b in my 92, feels basically the same
are you planning on upgrading anything else? otherwise manifold and tb might be overkill
I have heard that the b20b intake manifolds are a little restrictive compared to our b18 ls intake manifolds. Not too sure if theres some truth to that but it seems logical.
But there shouldnt really be much of a difference until you actually get a b20z which comes with some more kick to it.
im planning on doing crower stage 2 cams to it later on also
when i first did the swap (low comp p75 b20) i didnt really notice much of a diff… ran a consistant 15.8 at the track
after changing the IM/TB over to a B18B, and throwing on a header i ran a consistant 15.2… i have since got it chipped with maps from a local tuner and i think that made the big difference… havn’t run it at the track with the chip though…
if you check my youtube (username rayzian) i’ve got vids of doing a 0-160kph pulls of the b20 after i did the swap and after i got a header + chip… there is a noticeable difference in how it pulls… i also raced a JSRC d15b vtec @ 11psi and took him no problem and stayed about a car length or two behind a 2.0t genesis (both vids up on my youtube aswell)
all in all i paid 500 for my b20 and i love it
if you do end up getting a low comp b20 you can swap b18b (96+ integ) cams for a little gain and match it up with the b18b IM/TB (96+) to get it to breathe a little better over the b18a IM/TB although a p8r high comp b20/b20z would be the best choice
there are also dynos here on g2ic of a b20b with I/H/E and a tune making roughly 150whp, thats close to a GSR’ powers with more torque
thanks bro like the vids and nice car.
Bro iv seen your videos! Very good. Thanks for the write up! helped me for my upcoming swap. Post some more!! Godbless! [QUOTE=rayzian;2242263]when i first did the swap (low comp p75 b20) i didnt really notice much of a diff… ran a consistant 15.8 at the track
after changing the IM/TB over to a B18B, and throwing on a header i ran a consistant 15.2… i have since got it chipped with maps from a local tuner and i think that made the big difference… havn’t run it at the track with the chip though…
if you check my youtube (username rayzian) i’ve got vids of doing a 0-160kph pulls of the b20 after i did the swap and after i got a header + chip… there is a noticeable difference in how it pulls… i also raced a JSRC d15b vtec @ 11psi and took him no problem and stayed about a car length or two behind a 2.0t genesis (both vids up on my youtube aswell)
all in all i paid 500 for my b20 and i love it
if you do end up getting a low comp b20 you can swap b18b (96+ integ) cams for a little gain and match it up with the b18b IM/TB (96+) to get it to breathe a little better over the b18a IM/TB although a p8r high comp b20/b20z would be the best choice
there are also dynos here on g2ic of a b20b with I/H/E and a tune making roughly 150whp, thats close to a GSR’ powers with more torque[/QUOTE]
I think crower stage 2 cams require you to have a minimum comp of 11:1
Im going the big boy route and getting a golden eagle stroker kit for a b20v.
My buddy is building rhe same setup all motor nitrus no stroker, parts are going ti run him a lil under $2kto build a 230hp b20v no unit alone.
Im spending about $2k with the same parts in the stroker kit and ill put down 260hp all motor tuned.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2251132]I think crower stage 2 cams require you to have a minimum comp of 11:1
Im going the big boy route and getting a golden eagle stroker kit for a b20v.
My buddy is building rhe same setup all motor nitrus no stroker, parts are going ti run him a lil under $2kto build a 230hp b20v no unit alone.
Im spending about $2k with the same parts in the stroker kit and ill put down 260hp all motor tuned.[/QUOTE]
Cool story brAH!
those vids made me happy since i have a bone stock b20b sitting here, guess ill put a few parts into it before installing so i can spray it reliably…
[QUOTE=unified112;2241574]Compression isn’t the end-all be-all when it comes to making good power.
Half a point of compression (8.8:1 of the low-comp B20 compared to 9.2:1 of the B18A) is not enough to make you say “God this feels like it has low compression”
With the difference in torque curve it should feel ‘sportier’ in the bottom end, but it wont rev as high so it might feel like its struggling as it approaches redline.
My tuner said the difference in power between a mid-compression NA build and a high-compression NA build (Given everything else is identical), you’d see maybe a 2% increase. Its nothing to go crazy over.[/QUOTE]
Does it make sense to you that Honda would opt for a lower compression engine to move significantly more weight in the CRV rather than save money and just use their b18 since they already had it? If so, why not put higher compression pistons in it to begin with? given the right combo their purposes would still be solved.
I’ve driven both crvs multiple times. Go drive a 96 crv and then go drive an 01. There’s your all things being equal and compression being the main change between the two. Mind you the 01 is slightly heavier as well. Still think the difference of 2% makes sense? 01 moves a hell of a lot easier than the 96 does.
Also ask any DB2 owner how many EM1s outrun em (just to stir the pot since we’re butt dyno and mag racing lol)
:cloud9:
Just saying.
So from a noob stand point, which of the b20 motor would be best as far as “bang for the buck”
b20z or high compression b20b mated with the b17 or b16 short-gear transmission.
Well if you have the option to find the high compression one then of course you should get it. you’re upgrading from a 1.8l to a 2.0l might as well start high. now if you plan to build it eventually by swapping pistons in anyway, and can save some money now by buying a lower compression one then go that route. it all depends on your overall plans. personally i’d find a cheaper low compression one, and buy even higher compression pistons, but that’s just me.
what do you wanna do overall?
Not necessarily. Are we talking about a daily driver? An autox car? a drag racing car? Each one will be best suited with a different transmission. I wouldnt want to drive a 30+min highway commute with a short geared transmission like the b17 ys1 and listen to 4k drone all day.
[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2252278]Well if you have the option to find the high compression one then of course you should get it. you’re upgrading from a 1.8l to a 2.0l might as well start high. now if you plan to build it eventually by swapping pistons in anyway, and can save some money now by buying a lower compression one then go that route. it all depends on your overall plans. personally i’d find a cheaper low compression one, and buy even higher compression pistons, but that’s just me.
what do you wanna do overall?[/QUOTE]
loving these forums already, only way I’ll look into a swap if I find it cheap enough or my current engine goes out.
and then if I do, ill probably just jump into a high comp b20, dont really have the knowledge to mess with internals.
so a high comp b20 is a b20z? and a low comp a b20???
Daily Driver is key for me. Once again, man am I glad I joined LOL
I drive a 50+ mile commute every day to work, my perfect world would consist of a quiet motor and smooth gearing, dont need to grow a second bicep on my right arm
[QUOTE=Vroomin350;2252292]loving these forums already, only way I’ll look into a swap if I find it cheap enough or my current engine goes out.
and then if I do, ill probably just jump into a high comp b20, dont really have the knowledge to mess with internals.
so a high comp b20 is a b20z? and a low comp a b20???
Daily Driver is key for me. Once again, man am I glad I joined LOL
I drive a 50+ mile commute every day to work, my perfect world would consist of a quiet motor and smooth gearing, dont need to grow a second bicep on my right arm[/QUOTE]
b20z is the jdm one IIRC.
That’s a hell of a commute. For that a high comp b20 and a b18c1 transmission would be a good choice if you don’t want to mess with anything internal at all. if you’re slightly more bold at b16 with a LS fifth gear would make things more managable on the highway of course. Find some guys around town with different combinations and find the right feel for how you drive.