Well I got them in today. When i first turn on the and drive it (even if its warm) it will stutter like crazy, I have to rev it past 5k to actually keep it from stuttering. It cant hold idle either, I have cam gears but don’t know what to set them at. Also when I’m driving the car jerks back and forth kinda like when u let off the clutch to fast and not enough gas.
any ideas?
are they “new” regrinds? or did u buy them used? we had the same problem with the 303’s in a buddies LS as well. thebase circle was worn down so much, we ended up changing it out for another set of 303’s and doing a valve adjustment to, putting back in the stock cams. :mad: u do a valve adjustement? but when it comes to the 303’s they idle worth SH!T anyways. and your powerband isn’t worth the damn till after 4K. also check your fuel pressure if u can… they like gas. hate to say it but it will NEVER idle to your liking. IMO JG can SUCK balls…
from what i understand JG makes good honda/acura products. do u have a air/fuel controller?? it is extremely possible that you are just running too rich for your ecu. with just the cam gears it’ll help out but it’s not going to cut it without a fmu. i got th crower 403 in my auto teg and at first it runs kinda shitty and i can’t turn the ac on when i’m ideling cause it’lls tall the car out. The guy that works on my car told me it’s running too rich at idle and told me i should get a safc and tha’ts exactly what i did and that is how i lived through the summer. it’s running around - 25 % at idel now.
Originally posted by LODOSS
it’s running around - 25 % at idel now.
can you tell me your settings please? I just got my safc today!
i was running -17% at idle with mine
I’m running %50 idle… i think… its -50% at 1000rpm… thats why keeps it alive.
well i have auto so might be a lil diff but if you have similar set upt as mine the it might be help ful.
running about 45 psi
low throttle
1000 - 26
2000 - 7000 dont matter below what the current setting is to save some fuel.
<above 30% rhottle>
1000 -7
2000 -4
3000 -3
3500 -1
4000 +2
5000 +4
6000 +5
6500 +6
cams -2, -2
good low end tq and once hit above 3500 u can feel major power.
i choose thaese points because in the 403’s between 3500 - 4000 is when the cams starts to kick in so i want to fine tune it to make a smooth curve which i did and it was shown on the dyno result that i had a while back.
LODOSS, that 45 psi, is that your fuel pressure ?
Just Garbage
I’m not going to bash JG about the products that they make, but, the 303’s are str8t up sh*tty. my boy has had those same cams for what seems like 8 years now (dealing with idling problems, valve chatter and the most narrow powerband known to man, makes 4 years feel like 8). i know that JG make very good products, but those cams have basically steered me away from buying anything that they make. i had a set of reground Gude cams in my LS, but, dealing with the idle problems, valve chatter and fuel consuption wasn’t as bad because that cam pulled like a blunt from 4000-8000rpm. if you want big top-end power, i would travel down different avenues with b18a/b, possibly ls/vtec. peace
well i hate to just on the hate JG bandwagon , but trust me they suck…I had them in my LS for a while and i regret putting them in my b20…After i took them out my engine is fine and has been trouble free…I know for a fact that JG used to make very nice race cams and i had allot of friends back in the days that used to run there stuff , but i don’t respect them at all anymore…I know now that they merge with Edelbrock there are supposed to be allot better product , but i still would not put there cams in any car of mine anymore…
leeo
JG cams are crap. Plain and simple.
For your cam gears, set them at 0 to see if that helps the idle or hesitation poroblems. If it does help, then go and adjust each cam individually. If you advance the intake cam, that gives you more midrange power. If you retard the exhuast cam, that gives you more top end power. Tuning cams is a tedious process, especially when you don’t have a dyno. You don’t have to be an expert to do it, you just have to know how to wrench on your car a bit. Also, you have to be able to notice the difference when you change something… lots of people can’t do this.
The jerking you refer to sounds like it MAY be your timing to me. If someone removed your distributor and failed to put it back correctly, it could cause hesitation that turns into jerking with the Auto tranny. THESE ARE JUST MY OPINIONS, NOT PROFESSIONAL DIAGNOSING.
I would look at the timing, both distributor and cam, fuel pressure and your idle settings.
Next time, buy Gude cams.
Why?
:burnout:
-Nick
lol yes 45 psi is my fuel pressure… what ut hink i’m running 45 psi boost? =P=P=P=P I WISH
wow i was thinking of buying these for 150… dont even have an safc yet
the JG bored TB sems to be a very good product althogh i have not put it on but looking at it, it looks like it’ll def flow better. 66mm outside and 62 at the butterfly,…