Greetings all. First time poster here but already I’ve found so much useful information on G2IC that I wanted to start by saying thank you.
I don’t know if I will create a build log, but I just picked up a DA9 GS with zero rust, three tiny dents, and a near spotless interior for a steal. I grew up with EKs and G3s and figured this car could be a project for me and my son who is turning 16 next year.
Already started down the path of finding all the little “gotchas” that come with the G2 and I have a list, but I’d love to hear of anything I’ve missed so I can be prepared:
Intermittent wipers not working (ICU?)
Oil light coming on dimly and flickering (ICU?)
Trunk latches only when slammed (washers under the latch?)
Water in the rear hatch area (tail light seals?)
Passenger window barely opens/closes (window motor rebuild?)
Hazards not working
ABS light on after a minute or two of driving, no codes displayed
I’m really looking forward to some interesting problem solving and being able to share insights I’ve gathered that I just couldn’t find online.
ICU hits the hazards too? Good grief. I knew the flickering oil light and a few other things tied to it. Maybe replacement will be a cure all.
I haven’t been able to find one so it looks like I’ll have to send mine out and hope for repair. Brian at nsxe-repair.com still does the service. $120. Is there an interchangeable part or bypass that works or is repair my only option?
I’ve had a few ICUs refurbed through Brian. He’s good people. The ICU repair should fix a lot of issues. I wish there was a company that would rebuild this though because if your traces are bad, the ICU is pretty much shot.
Your passenger window issue is most likely a dirty switch contact. G2IC: Teg Tips
Water in hatch is most likely your taillight gaskets.
With the ICU, will Brian be able to fix it even if the traces are shot? Mine didn’t look terrible on the surface but that doesn’t mean they are functional. I’d be game for de-soldering a shot ICU and ordering some PCB’s with the proper traces, but the components on the board itself I don’t think I could replace. I considered this option a while back looking at pad2pad. I don’t have a source board though and can’t find an ICU for a spare to mess with.
I figured the tail light gasket was the issue for the water in the trunk, it was all but non-existent. I tried some 1/2x1/4" expandable foam tape I had from a rebuild of my in-fridge ice maker but it failed muster. Have some silicone D-form 1/2"x1/2" door seal tape I’m going to try next.
For the body panels I pulled to replace the tail light gasket, many of the tabs were broken off. Any recommendations for those? I tried JB Weld plastic bonder but it didn’t work for squat. I have PlasticWeld I could try, or maybe a soldering iron and actually weld it in place, although I fear causing more damage than good on that front.
Brian stated that one of the ICUs I gave him several years ago was “the worst he had ever seen”. I got it from a junkyard Integra. It worked for a while but failed after a few months. I still kept all of them though. I’m pretty confident he’ll get it working again.
There is someone on eBay that is making replica tailight gaskets. I bought them several years ago though. I’ll try to find that when I get home (it may be posted here too if you run a search for it).
As for the broken tabs, I haven’t found a solution to that. Those tabs are all over the car and many break. I was thinking along of the lines of reusable tape at this point but haven’t tried it yet.
So the d-form door sealant worked like a champ. I dumped over a gallon of water on top of the tail light after letting it sit for about an hour and not a drop ended up in the trunk
I did not use the adhesion promoter for fear it could damage the plastic or be difficult to remove if it didn’t work.
After pulling it off for the pic I noticed some of the adhesive had come free. I reformed it to shape but this seems to have been caused by pulling the strip too tight so I think keeping it as loose as possible I’d the best course of action.
I left the seam on the bottom just above where I think the drain outlets.
Even after pulling the taillight and the adhesion in that one corner diminished a second test after reinstalling the taillight resulted in a dry trunk.
Since the seal is potentially thicker than the gasket, don’t tighten the bolts too much, I could see them breaking off easily
Overall I’m calling this a success but I’ll definitely be watching to see how it works over time
Yes the icu does the hazards. I would get it done by the nsx guy. I replaceded mine from a parts car fixed everything. Now a few months later the defeost disent work so i know its only time.
I sent it out like Friday so hopefully it’s not too shot. It’s really the only component that has caused me any struggle.
Question about the forums… If I find a shadetree mechanic fix for something Posting it in this thread would be silly. Should I post it in Information or Assistance? I’m not sure some of my fixes will last (like the taillights above) so posting in Information might lead people to think something that worked, in fact, did not. Although with the taillights so far so good!
I rigged up a fix to the broken posts/tabs on the interior panels which has worked quite well for some posts but others (like the lower-profile tab on the rear panel) I need a slightly different approach. I’d like to post a write up once I get the rear panel tabs solved.
