Hmm, I was looking at the Hasport one for 150,
But I was planning on switching the my distributor from my a1 to the b18c1,
So if i use the b18c1 ecu with the adapter, can I use the distributor that’s on the b18c1?
and will that allow me to use the obd0 injectors?
I was going to use the distributor off the a1 so I it would plug right in.
Night bump,
Alright, so I got the ecu from the engine that I got, this engine came from a 2000 GSR. Which I believe is an obd2. Is that an adapter made to make this ecu work with my car?
Theres a couple of different companys that make conversion harness’s. As far as the distributor is concerned. I thought you could just depin and switch the 2 white wires, can someone else confirm that?
[QUOTE=Josh721;2244094]Hmm, I was looking at the Hasport one for 150,
But I was planning on switching the my distributor from my a1 to the b18c1,
So if i use the b18c1 ecu with the adapter, can I use the distributor that’s on the b18c1?
and will that allow me to use the obd0 injectors?
I was going to use the distributor off the a1 so I it would plug right in.[/QUOTE]
if you’re going to use the GSR OBD1 ECU then you’ll need the OBD1 distributor with it.
they have adapter harnesses that’ll switch your obd0 plugs to connect with the obd1 distributor. (that’ll be the simplest way)
i bought the pigtails and made one myself
also i wouldnt go with hasport for the conversion harness… their harnesses are made by locash racing and i bought one previously for the obd0-obd1 and all the wire pinouts were going to the wrong location.
and if you want to keep the stock injectors just leave the resistor box in.
there’s a thread on here also on the obd0-obd1 conversion so look through the pages on that thread too if you need help
What about with the obd2 ecu? Or is the p72 ecu a p72 ecu? The engine I have now is an obd2 engine if I’m not mistaken.
Which adapter harness is reccomended? The rywire?
So I’m going to have to make the pigtales to run the obd2 distributor on my a1 wiring harness that is still in the car?
So I talked to rywire, and I found out that the ecu that I got with the engine is an obd2b and they dont make an adapter harness for that ecu, and I need to find an obd1 ecu or buy one of their chipped Ecu’s which are pretty expensive. So I am wanting to look for an obd1 ecu from a b18c1 1995 and down,
Is there a specific name for that ecu?
[QUOTE=Josh721;2244408]So I talked to rywire, and I found out that the ecu that I got with the engine is an obd2b and they dont make an adapter harness for that ecu, and I need to find an obd1 ecu or buy one of their chipped Ecu’s which are pretty expensive. So I am wanting to look for an obd1 ecu from a b18c1 1995 and down,
Is there a specific name for that ecu?[/QUOTE]
a gsr ecu that is obd1 is still known as a p72 ecu
this might help you identify ecus:
http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html
[QUOTE=tilegend;2244411]a gsr ecu that is obd1 is still known as a p72 ecu
this might help you identify ecus:
http://www.hondata.com/techecuid.html[/QUOTE]
That does help, thank you.
I guess the ecu that came with the engine is an obd2b, and Rywire makes a jumper harness for obd0 to obd2a and not one for be 
but the p72 is also made in obd1 which i can source out but is anywhere from like 150-200 when I can buy a chipped obd1 ecu from rywire that I know will work for 200 and plus the jumper harness, which is what I am going to do.
So here is the progress pictures that I have.
this is the trailing arm before I started taking the bushing out,
What was supposed to happen was the center piece was suppose to pull out and the bushing come along with it. That didn’t happen. the center piece ripped out easily leaving tons of rubber. so I tried to push the rubber out with a hydraulic press and the whole casing came out, and came out the WRONG way because this casing is slightly tapered. So i measured how deep the metal casing is supposed to go in the arm and got it as close to spec as possible and welded it in.
you can see the welding done in that picture.
I did this with both sides, and then got the bushings in.
I recommend using a wire brush when cleaning off the center piece, it makes it so easy and quick. here is before and after
other than that I sandblasted and powdercoated pretty much all of the suspension.
random parts,
steering knuckles this color.
i’m frickin sick of sandblasting.
painted calipers.
rear control arms with energy suspension
front control arms with energy suspension. ( i ran out of black powdercoat so used chrome lol)
I got my Competition clutch stage 2 in!
front camber kit
rear camber kit
the b18c1, really dirty
yesterday I powdercoated the lower control arms to try to match the skunk2 camber kits.
mini fail, but i guess they don’t look to bad.
and i cleaned up and painted the trailing arms
now i just need to clean my fender wells and spay a salt and water damage shield sealant protectant. I can’t remember the name of it off hand right now.
then I can finally do the assembly of everything!
I am so tired of all this prep and rebuild stuff.
hopefullyu it will be worth it in the end
Finally started putting it back together. I sprayed the fender wells with the salt protectant stuff and bolted the trailing arms up. I guess the rust on this car was so bad i stripped the fixed nuts in the trailing arms and am going to have to chizel them off and put a nut on the end and tac weld it.
I should have all the suspension on this week though. hopefully
nice…keep em coming…I too am in the same process except for powder coating…
I powder coated everything but the brakes, the sandblasting took forever on all the suspension, finally got it all back on though, it looks awesome, gonna start putting in the engine like next week I hope!
So here’s a little update, i’m pretty much done, just a few things left to do.
Here was my engine bay before and after,
It took like three hours and a bottle of simple green, but i got it clean.
I got the b18c1 in
Here is it before i dropped it in.
and i picked up some sick wheels last weekend.
They’re the Enkie WRC Tarmac Evo’s
So i figured out and installed the Skunk2 intake manifold.
Here is my awesome wiring, I got most of them pretty 
clean, but ran out of new hose, and had to use the stock one and made it fit.
nice build keep the DA alive…
So I guess I messed up when putting in the throwing bearing. Or something. I went to attach my clutch cable to the backer it connects to on the transmission and there is no pressure at all. sigh gonna see if I can wake up real early and rip it out. See what’s up with it before work tomorrow oh well… Still waiting on some parts anyway I guess…
Would you ever be interested in selling those wheels by chance lol I had a set and loved em then I lost em 
Nice car by the way!
Thanks man! ^^ but nah, i dont wanna sell them, i just got em and love em lol. i’ll let you know if i decide to change my mind
SO I NEED HELP GUYS!!!
I’m just about finished with the swap, I just was stupid and didn’t label a few wires.
These wires look like they need to ground somewhere specific. these two wires come off of what seems to be the positive end of the batter cable. or close to it. If you guys know where to put these. or can get me pictures really close to your battery, post the pictures here for me to see, thanks!