So i’ve been meaning to keep updating, so here is a whole lot of progress all at once.
This is what the stock suspension and brakes looked like when i took them off
I started taking out the motor, and got it out.
I got all of the suspension off.
One of the bolts that goes through the trailing arm, to the rear lower control arm broke when I was trying to get it out, I had to end up taking the trailing arm out, and in order to do that had to cut the right parking brake cable because the bracket was rusted onto the cable, If anyone knows where I can get new parts like parking brake cables ect for a good price please let me know. I’m going to end up replacing both parking brake cables.
Here is a picture of the trailing arm,
Ended up having to air chizel the fixed nut off in order to get the rest of that bolt out.
This is what the steering knuckels and A arms look like. they’re all sandblasted and ready for paint.
I’m going to rebuild my calipers, I had to sand blast them first, they were horrible. I think I am going to end up powder coating the calipers, not to sure, I am up for suggestions!
i’m gonna have to see how they look when I take a trip out to the junk yard. i have my whole energy suspension bushing kit on the way.
I’m trying to decide on the camber kit. Spoolin Performance has a kit on their website for $200 front and back. But i know that the Skunk2 ones will be a good buy so I’m not sure which to go with.
Also, does the full race traction bar fully replace the whole subframe?
By looking at it and talking to skunk2, Skunk2 camber kit is the way! ahah you wont bottom out like those cheap ebay kit do.i know cuz i have them LOL. But i do plan on getting skunk2’s later on…N yeah the Full race traction bars replace the whole subframe and its a little bit lighter.
^^ thats awesome, I want the full race traction bar bad!
But yeah skunk2 is lookin like the way to go, I saw that spoolin performance makes their own camber kits for 200 for the set of front and rear, not to sure how they are though, I know that their turbo products are awesome.
I decided to go turbo instead of an all motor b16
So i think i’ll be getting a JDM B18a1 and put on the y1 transmission.
I want to get about 250whp for my daily on a nice turbo set up
Just a little update since I haven’t in forever.
I got all the suspension powder coated either black silver or red. I’m painting my calipers a chrome color.
I have my energy suspension kit I’m about to install, and the energy suspension trailing arm kit.
I should have all te suspension done by next week.
I ended up sourcing out a b18c1 and that’s what will be making it’s way into my gs soon!
I’m about to order the avid racing traction bar and small parts I need to prep the engine to drop it in the car!
I’ll post pictures soon!
sick bro the gsr is way better than a b16… good luck with it… hope to see a sick DA soon. just wait till u feel the power difference, night and day difference… try and replace as much on the motor as you can before it goes in… if you have the knowledge and resources rebuild it and youll be extra cherry… micropolish crank new bearings cylinder hone new piston rings. bottom end gaskets and top end gaskets… wish i did that before i put my b18c1 in… now i gotta tear it out within next year and do what i shoulda did before i put it in…
That’s badass man! I can’t wait to feel the difference, I don’t really have the money right now to start a rebuild though, but I do have plans for it within the summer of 2013 though, I’m gonna replace gaskets, water pump, adjust the valves, new timing belt, thermostat, rebuild the power steering pump, and new spark plugs and wires,
I still need to purchase the back hubs and bearings as well as get new parking brake cables, and bottom ball joints to finish my suspension and brakes. I want tiger my interior and exterior nice and clean for
My daily before I build the motor, hopefully have another daily by then so I can have this one out of commission again for a while.
This DA will be clean and hopefully street and track ready!
I need some opinion, I still have my old ls tranny and am wondering what you guys think about Bolting that up to the b18c1. I had first thought to throw a b16 cable tranny on for the shorter gears, but i’ve been reading that rpm is pretty high on the highway, I don’t want to have my car reved crazy high while I’m on the highway. And I was wondering how much power loss I could get if I bolted my ls tranny to the b18c1?
Don’t bother with the LS trans, the gearing is WAY too long for a vtec engine. With GSR YS1 or ITR gearing freeway driving isn’t bad at all. At 4k rpm my speed is about 72mph, and if you don’t want to get speeding tickets then that’s pretty much as fast as you’ll be going on the freeway (freeway speed limits are 65mph in most areas near me). And even when the speed limit is 70mph and you may be cruising at 80mph I’m still under 4.5k rpm. Nothing wrong with seeing extended periods of driving at those engine speeds. I wouldn’t start to worry until I got up to where my vtec engagement point was, and at that point my concern would be how annoying it would be, not that it’d be dangerous to the engine.
Oh alright, that Sounds good. I’ll source one out then. I thought it would effect the motor reving like that for a long period of time, but the more I think about it, the more it makes sense that it won’t hurt the engine, and yeah the vtec would be annoying for a good fee hours.
I put an LS 5th gear in my GSR YS1. helps out with fuel economy on the highway and its annoying to listen to the car at anything over 3k rpm for extended periods of time
oh alright, I’m still lookin for the gsr tranny, but hopefully I will find one soon.
I have a quick question, the OBD0 pr3 ecu cannot have the hondata s300,
but i don’t have the cash to get the car running for the b18c1 ecu plus hasport adapter,
is there any sort of chip I will be needing for the pr3?
i’m pretty sure that the pr3 should run the car just fine, at least till I get the money for the hasport setup.
