I need peoples suggestions… I have a 90 Teg and just swaped in a “rebuilt” engine. after a long install and several side task the car is running well. I’ve put about 30 miles on it so far. only issues were a single stall out and an engine code 15, upon checking and reconnecting the ignition wires in the §§§§§ and area the car runs fine.
at the moment it’s leaking oil, from what looks like more than one area. I didn’t RTV the oil pan gasket and it appears to be leaking from there for one area. The other leak seems to be coming from the head gasket area. The car runs at the right temp and I don’t see oil in the radiator fluid, but am not sure about water in the oil though the radiator fluid level stays steady. There’s no smoke coming out my exhaust, white or grey.
I’m worried because a cracked head gasket blew my last engine. How bad would it be to drive the car with an oil leak from the head gasket area? I’ve only had it a day so it’s hard to say how much is leaking. the oil spots on the concrete below the car range from about 3 by 5 inches to 6 by 9 inches, and aren’t saturated.
I hope that all made sense… thanks for the help in advance.
do u have any pics??? if its rebuilt then honestly it shouldnt be leaking unless u put the motor together urself… but i would start doing some troubleshooting. check the headbolts and make sure there tq to the right amout. then i would tighten that oil pan up alil more. and see if that dosnt help… but post some pics for some better responses.
On the oil pan I think there is one or two bolts that are different than the other. My friend had a Type R and hit something on the freeway which ripped a hole in his oil pan. After we replaced the oil pan, it was still leaking. We could not figure out what the problem was. After talking with a friend that works for a dealership, he had said that one or two of the bolts are different and if not placed in the right hole the pan will leak. Did that and it fixed the problem.
wtf r u serious about the oil pan bolts… how would I know which were the special ones and where they go? I’ll check the book. I have to inspect the engine much better to be sure about where it’s coming from. Right now that’s the least of my problems.
I took the car out today to take my cat to the Vet. When I pull into the Vets parking lot the car died. I tried to start it again and it threw a ecu code 15. The same code it through the other day when it wouldn’t start for me. i let the car sit and did my business at the Docs. When i return to the car it started right up. About 30 seconds down the road it died again, the rpm’s just instantly dropped from 3500 to 0. I pulled to the side and it wouldn’t start again. I ended up walking home with my cat in hand.
I have an outboard accel coil. I’m going to ride my bicycle back to it later when it’s cool and try it again. When it stalled out on me the other day it was hot out. Maybe the coil is over heating? or the ICM? It almost seems like a MFR problem, not working when it’s hot out.
ECU code 15 I hate you!!
Road my bike to the car, about 3 miles… cleared the engine code, started right up. Drove about 5 blocks and it died at about 40 mph, tach just drops right out, usually when shifting. Pulled over, swaped in old oem coil in place of my accel, cleared engine code, started right up. got it home and into my parking space as fas as possible. As it was idling in the parking stall the car died out again.
Tomorrow I’m going out to buy a timing light and a volt meter so i can more thoroughly check into this. I’m broke as a joke but need to fix this problem, someone please help. Anyone have any experience with Code 15 or Ignition Output Signal issues? I’ve searched google and g2ic forums.
My car recently threw a Code 15 and would die down and start at random tries. Replaced the coil and the ignition module and reset the ECU. No problems since then.
How long ago ws that?
I just thought of something else… If there is bad compression, can this cause the issue? My head bolts might not be torqued right, the engine was build by a nub, hence the leaking oil thread.
Are you sure that the head gasket leak is not actually a leak from the valve cover that is running down and appearing to leak from the head?
good question… I partially RTV’d the head cover gasket and am noticing less oil. However, I’m worried that the head bolts weren’t torqued because the cam bolts weren’t torued at all when i picked up the engine. I know it’s a pain to check the head bolts but it’ll be peice of mind, then I can RTV the whole head cover gasket, the outer cam fasteners, disty, and the blank black cover. I’m off to buy a timing light and a volt/ohm meter. what a pain this swap has been.
IMO: It’s worth spending the extra $$$ on a imported JDM or USDM stock engine from a shop than buying a private party “rebuild” and go through all the shiat I’ve gone through. Maybe it’s my luck or maybe the guy i bought the engine from was a tweaker… who knows.
a common leak is the oil pan. I have it, and probably a lot of other members here do. Its not too bad (after 1k miles, its still at the high mark) I hear you’re NOT supposed to use a sealant, hondabond, or anything of that nature. otw it will leak like a siv. It is meant to go on dry. Just torque the bolts down in the criss-cross method and the gasket should seat correctly. by the way i’m talking about the oil pan gasket, not the headgasket.
well crizap… I took the ICM and Coil to autozone, had them test each, and they said both are fine. I checked the resistances of the coil, primary and secondary, they’re 1.0 and 11.1k respectively. I checked the car for voltage at the coil and igniter, both have it. The manual says when everything checks out and there’s still issues to replace the ignitor.
In your opinions could compression, timing, or Master Fuel Relay be the issue behind this? I don’t have the money to replace things that aren’t broken. I’m not sure about the compression or timing, I’ll check the MFR next. I have a similar issue with a civic and it was the MFR.
Thanks to everyone for all the help.
MFR looked like crap, I resoldered about 8 pins, 2 with clearly visible cracks in them. I’m gonna put that back in, check over everything again, rebuild the distributor, and then see if anything helped. If it still fails I’ll just buy a new ignitor I guess.