I’m running a LS/VTEC with USDM Type R pistons and a GSR head with a modified Type R intake manifold. I’m running 270cc RC injectors and MSD6A w/ss coil. I have noticed that my car when cold it’s ok, but when it warms up it tend to get a little too hot! (Cylinder Head Temp around 205 to 215 degrees). I don’t have a oil cooler but I think that there’s something that came be done for now other than that. The car when get this hot starts to knock and I have to retard the ignition on the PMS EFI if I don’t want it to get to nasty. I did a compression test on it and it reads around 230 on three cylinders and 240 on one. I looked at the specs for a GSR and it is 270 maximum so I don’t think that it is a overcompression. Then again, the maximum for an LS is 189 which I’m way beyond. I also notice that the distribuitor is leaking a little oil and the distributor is brand new. The ecu is an LS with an XS chip on it, but I’m running the EFI to fine tune it. Other thing is that when I’m trying to set the timing belt, the cam sprocket can’t be aligned (not to mention it has a timing degree of about 7). The only way it works is if the intake is a little advance (since it doesn’t line up). I bought this engine already done so I’m thinking that the head was milled but not for sure. I’m about to retard the ignition and advance the cam gear a few degrees to add up 18 degrees to see if this will fix the problem. With the distribuitor where is at I can’t even add half a degree cause it will start knocking. I also have the GSR water pump and timing belt. I replace the sprocket with adjustable one thinking it was the sprockets but I was wrong. Please help a Brotha out. I’m overseas and the Honda/Acuras are not the most popular cars around here so people don’t know a damn thing about them. I ain’t no ASP technitian, but I can defend myself here and there. It is cases like this one that frustrate the **** out of me!!:rant: Anyways, I’m waiting for a response!
With the efi system you have is it a full engine management? Do you set the fuel curve and timing curve?
What octane gas are you using?
The type r pistons with the lsvtec engine is pushing a high compression ratio with pump gas. If the head has been milled then it depends on how much was milled off to figure what compression ratio you’re running.
Retarding the timing when you’re having detonation is not going to fix the problem if detonation is the problem. If detonation is the problem then you might have some carbon deposits igniting the fuel mixture or the gas your using might not be resistant enough for the high compression ratio.
What fuel ratios are you running right now?
A richer ratio is more resistant to detonation.
These are some just some ideas. Hope this helps.
Peace,
Originally posted by tsarya
With the efi system you have is it a full engine management? Do you set the fuel curve and timing curve?
What octane gas are you using?
The type r pistons with the lsvtec engine is pushing a high compression ratio with pump gas. If the head has been milled then it depends on how much was milled off to figure what compression ratio you’re running.
Retarding the timing when you’re having detonation is not going to fix the problem if detonation is the problem. If detonation is the problem then you might have some carbon deposits igniting the fuel mixture or the gas your using might not be resistant enough for the high compression ratio.
What fuel ratios are you running right now?
A richer ratio is more resistant to detonation.
These are some just some ideas. Hope this helps.
Peace,
On the EFI, yes you can set the timing and fuel curve. So what I do is listen up for whenever I’ll get the knocking and retard the timing 4 degrees on Mid and High from 2000 to 4000 and that will take care of the knocking a little. I thought that the knocking was because of too much fuel that didn’t burn and the heat made it to expontaneous combust. Anywway, I’m in italy right now and I don’t really know the octane of the fuel over herel. It is not like the States that it says. There I always put 93 and almost never knocked. I’m planning to pull the head out to put a crv while I’ll get it cleaned out and new seal on it to see how it goes. I bought this engine already done (assembled) and I don’t know it the head was milled or not, but I’m assuming cause the sprockets doesn’t align. The next thing is the compression is just 230 to 240 psi when a factory GSR maximum is 270 psi. I don’t think I’m pushing it to the limit though. I did see some deposits when I took the head of to put the pistons but I didn’t think it would have matter too much. That’s why I’m taking the head off and have all the valve cleaned or replaced. Let’s see how it goes. Thanks for your advice and please let me know if you have anything else.