It would have been fine…i just needed a reassuring “no” cause i figured calipers only become ABS from the computer system that controls them…just wanted know for sure.
THANKS Mr. FERRET :hump:
yep…ABS is just a system of sensors, wires, solenoids, and pumps. the only difference between “abs” axles/hubs and “non-abs” axles/hubs is the ring of ridges that the ABS sensors use to determine speed. you can use the abs items in a non-abs car, but if you put non-abs items in an abs-equipped car, the ABS won’t work correctly. 
Ferret- Did you upgade your brake booster and master cylinder when you did this?
Again, a simple “yes/no” answer will be fine…i’m just curious if you did.
those are hot …i plan on getting the pro race 1.2’s:up:
well i was wondering… since imma do the legend brake upgrade… and i want to upgrade the rotors to Brembos, should I just buy the brembos now and have them re-drilled so they can be ready? or should i just stick with stock?
stock are far far cheaper (can you get the brembos for 20 bucks?). try 'em out first and see if they’ll work for you. i think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. 
well yea i know they’re far far “cheaper” but i was thinkin more of performance wise. gonna do new rotors, pads, and ss lines. would that path be better then the legend brake upgrade?
if you enjoy turning down your rotors every 500-1000 miles, then rush out and get those brembos as quickly as you can. they’re softer material than stock rotors–which gives great initial bite, but rotor life is IMMENSELY shortened because of it. with metal master pads and no harsh conditions at all (just daily driving, maybe one spirited run a week) the blanks were toast (meaning i’d turned them down to the service limit and needed new rotors) in about 3 months. that’s gay. went back to stock rotors, and nobody’s ever going to convince me to switch back to anything but (unless i pick up a wilwood kit, which i doubt i’ll do).
thanks a.ferret appreciate the help.
hopefuly i will get a good deal on the legend brakes or maybe try out the preludes. hmmm… tough decision. but we’ll just see.
sexy. brand spankin new.
:drool:
thats cool i never knew you could change out hte brakes like that…i see why you would have to use different calipers cause of the different diameters…but why exactly do you put the left on the right and the right on the left…if it worked on the original cars why wouldnt it work when you switch it over?
even though this has already been covered numerous times, including in the posts linked to earlier in this thread, i’ll go ahead and spoon-feed yet another murkkan.
the original cars didn’t have the calipers located in the same place. if you go on acuraautomotiveparts.org and select the appropriate vehicle you’ll realize this. the calipers, as i’ve already said time and time again, DO NOT NEED TO BE SWITCHED TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE. People do this to make bleeding easier. with the caliper on the back side of the rotor–toward the rear of the car–the bleeder screw points upward, but if you rotate it around to the front, keeping the pistons in the same configuration, the screw is on the bottom, not allowing for good bleeding. if you switch sides, you run the risk of uneven pad wear, less resistance to fade, and other possible inconveniences due to the pistons not being in their originally-intended configuration. I’m leaving them on the original sides, and will just swallow my pride and use a piece of plywood or something when it comes time to bleed the brakes. it’s not THAT hard.
that makes sense thanks for the info…i read the post on ht thats some good stuff…but if you were to get some legend rotors with some legend calipers why would you need to do any grinding to get them to fit…oh wait…is the carrier bracket the one that the caliper itself bolts to the knuckle?
I think it’s important to say that many people who have been running the brake conversion with the sides switched including the guys at fast brakes say that the uneven pad wear is not an issue. I’ve been running mine for quite a while and pad wear looks even. But to each their own. It works either way.
FYI for anyone swapping out the fronts,
Here’s a rear brake conversion to go from stock 9.4" to 10.3" rotors.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1090780
Basically it’s an EP3 rotor, caliper mount and pads. ITR rotors are the same size, but the EP3 is 4x100. This uses the stock DC calipers. It doesn’t mention that it works on a DA, but as far as I know, the rear brakes are pretty much the same.
Does anyone know if the EP3 front rotors are 11"? Might be an easy alternative to redrilling the ITR/Prelude rotors.
I’m going to try this out when I swap out my fronts.
I don’t have ABS is that gonna make a difference? I’m assuming the legend, accord v6 and ITR all have ABS. i just don’t wanna get screwed all because i don’t have all the fancy stuff like a GS or GSR…
already posted up this same link elsewhere in a thread i had, regarding upgrading rear brakes.
seems to all fit on my DC rear trailing arms just fine. (hint: DC rear trailing arms are a direct bolt-in replacement for DA)