lights dim...

i just recently replaced my alternator with a known good one i got from a friend (tested at parts store, testing fine.)

now when ever I step on the brakes the headlights dim… what should I look into?

Connections, start with the grounds, batt. to chassis, [under batt]and chassis to motor, [came cable].

Check all the screw down connections, [including fuses] in the under hood fuse box.:cross:94

You may find this retarded…IDK im just a Honda technician, but check the voltage of the battery…you can take it to autozone and have it tested or use a multimeter to check voltage…

I’m assuming since the alternator was bad, the car was running on just the battery…seriously, have that checked out and let us know…

Its an Odyssey PC645 (which is in the trunk) so hopefully its not bad… I checked all the connections and grounds and they seemed fine… so I’ll have the battery checked

How is the relocated batt. wired?

What gauge cable have you run from the batt. to the engine bay and where did you connect it?

What type of fuse do you have on the cable?:hmm:94

Believe it’s four gauge. It runs from the battery to the starter then from the starter to the fuse box which is under the dash.

I’ve been thinking of running it to the fuse box, then from the fuse box to the starter kinda like how it was stock but the lights went dim before the tuck, after the tuck. Didnt know if it would make a difference.

I’ve had the same problem ever since i bought my Teg. Relocated battery as well. All my stuff checked out though(Batt. Alt. Ground) Good Luck.

It runs from the battery to the starter then from the starter to the fuse box which is under the dash.

That would be the correct way to do it.

What type of fuse is in the 4ga cable?

You said… “now when ever I step on the brakes the headlights dim” I took that to mean after you installed the alt., but you also say… " the lights went dim before the tuck, after the tuck" I take that to mean you had the problem before the batt. relocation and tuck so the problem is not related to the the tuck and batt. relocation.

How much dimming of the head lights are we talking about?
Does it only happen when you step on the brakes, not when turning on things like blower motor or rear window defog, power windows if you have them?:dozing:94

There is no fuse on the 4ga wire from the battery to the starter. So how I have it wired is correct? Alright, then I wont touch it.

As far as dimming, I dont really know exactly how much but it only does it when I hit the brakes. I’ll double check tonight to see if it does it when I turn the blower etc on.

No fuse on the 4ga???:shock:

You do know that if the 4ga or starter short out the car will burn to the ground and your insurance will not pay.:stare:94

No issues thus far. What size fuse should I run and will it resolved the issues at hand?

It will not resolve your problem, it will prevent the car from burning to the ground if there is a short, size of fuse will depend on gauge of cable, if it is 4ga cable install a 150A fuse, [current capacity of 4ga cable]:whisper:94

Alright I noticed when I turn on the rear defrost the lights do not dim. However if I turn on the blower, the lights do dim.

I know you said you had the alt. tested at a parts store but have you had a proper load test done on the car?

If not, you should, most alt./batt. shops will do load checks for free, only takes a few min. to do.:corn:94

Alright, I’ll take it up there today.

Im running a 100A fuse in line between my battery and the starter using 4 ga cable with no problems using a odyssey thats been relocated to the hatch.

not doubting the elecrical wiz here, but wouldnt a 150A fuse be a little over kill?

Current capacity of 4ga power cable is 150A.

Although not necessary if max load is less then power cable capacity, a fuse that matches cables capacity should be used.:whisper:94