you can buy cable at your local car audio store. It’s easiest to buy it at a high-end store where you can pull it off the reel and pay /ft.
You can also get it at a welding supply store, better cable at 1/2 the price.:idea:94
I have one question? How would you put a ground on your battery if it is located in the trunk? where would the ground wires go or should go? I also am having problems with dimming and low idle.
A good place to attach the batt. ground would be a seat-belt bolt or at one of the studs on the rear shock tower, or make your own grounding stud by drilling a hole in the floor-pan and mounting a bolt, with washer from underneath and lock-washer and nut from the top, bingo grounding stud, ground cable should be the same gauge as power lead, [4ga min.]
I would also replace the stock, under hood, batt. to chassis to transmission ground with a 4ga, [or thicker] chassis to transmission ground.:idea:94
my fogs go out after a little while as well. i have jdm one-pieces and have gone thru three sets so far. the fogs wil work for a little while then one will stop and the other will follow. the bulbs are fine. i figured it was a grounding issue. i will check the grounding points and cables as soon as i get outside but i recently soldered the wires for the one pieces. i was wondering if i could have messed up the wires for the fogs? i have a multimeter but have no idea how to use it. thanks
wires were burnt… ugrading to bigger battery wires.
[QUOTE=quattroman;1329275]- Press the break everything dims, and the temp needle goes up.
[/QUOTE]
I’m having this problem right now as well.
On random days, when I press my brake pedal, my radio will cut our for about 2 seconds and turn back on (just turns off, doesn’t reset).
I also have random problems with dimming headlights and interior lights. Just yesterday, I noticed that my temperature and fuel gauges are acting strange as well. When I push the brake pedal my teperature gauge rises (goes back down when I let off of the brake) and my fuel gauge would go all the way down to empty when I turn off my car. I just filled my tank last night and my gauge isn’t reading full. When I turned off my car today at work, my temperature gauge went al the way to HOT instead of all the way to cold. By the time I came back to check on my car, it had gone back to cold.
My battery and my negative terminal were just recently replaced so I know that’s not the problem. I think it might be the engine to chassis ground (covered in power steering fluid) or possibly my alternator.
Can anyone offer me any suggestions… :points in fcm’s general direction:
I would check all the grounds, batt., chassis, motor and your dash harness grounds, when one seemingly unrelated circuit, [brakes] have any kind of an effect on another circuit, [radio, gauges] it is almost always a grounding problem, most common is two circuits sharing the same chassis ground point, either same bolt holding 1 or more ring terminals to the chassis, or more then one ground in 1 ring terminal, where the grounds have good continuity between them but poor continuity to ground.:blah: :blah:94
PS, Sorry if this took a while, I hardly ever check here
[QUOTE=kNOwLedGe420;1734837]I’m having this problem right now as well.
On random days, when I press my brake pedal, my radio will cut our for about 2 seconds and turn back on (just turns off, doesn’t reset).
I also have random problems with dimming headlights and interior lights. Just yesterday, I noticed that my temperature and fuel gauges are acting strange as well. When I push the brake pedal my teperature gauge rises (goes back down when I let off of the brake) and my fuel gauge would go all the way down to empty when I turn off my car. I just filled my tank last night and my gauge isn’t reading full. When I turned off my car today at work, my temperature gauge went al the way to HOT instead of all the way to cold. By the time I came back to check on my car, it had gone back to cold.
My battery and my negative terminal were just recently replaced so I know that’s not the problem. I think it might be the engine to chassis ground (covered in power steering fluid) or possibly my alternator.
Can anyone offer me any suggestions… :points in fcm’s general direction:[/QUOTE]
hey, definitley try to replace the valve cover to rad support ground. either make your own or just get some new ones from the dealer. this ground affects alot of the electrical sensors on the engine, such as the water temp sending unit and the other sensors on the engine. that is one of your most important grounds.
oh yea?
I had the same problems, my car started when it wanted to, my idle would jump up and down, my temperature guage was going crazy, stereo cutting off and my lights were dimming. I replaced the gound wire because the old one was in bad shape at the engine ground and it didn’t fix it. So i added an extra ground to the ground point above the starter and it fixed all my problems.
ever since i got my car it always had the ELD cel 20 code, i really didn’t mind since i don’t drive it too much, but now im getting around to it. I was wondering if an ELD cel would cause the alternator to regulate a lower voltage. My car doesn’t seem to make over 13 volts and have to jump it every so often. Just wanted to narrow it down before i actually get a new alternator and down time on the car. With headlights on at night it hovers around 12.6-13 and this is off a autometer voltmeter i have hooked up.
/\ little update, i decided to pick up a digital multimeter today since my autometer volt meter is analog and it doesnt get down to the exact voltage.
with the car off my autometer normally says about 10.5-11 volts, with the car ion the line is around 12.5-13 volts.
now with my new multimeter.
car off at battery: 12.4ish volts
car on at battery: 14.3-4ish
@ alternator on- 14.2ish
@ wires my voltmeter was hooked up to- 14.2ish, i also tested with headlights on, pressing the brake down, leaving the hazards on and other accessories. it dipped to 13.8ish
so i assume my alternator is putting out the voltage.
there must be something drawing current when my car is off and sucking all the juice out. looks like it time to do something hunting over the weekend…
Delete.
That should be easy now that you have a multimeter, check what the current draw is when everything is supposed to be off.:hmm:94
something wrong with my car too.
recently my car wasn’t starting so i decided to clean the terminals, that made it turn on but now when i try turning it on it makes a weird noise ( not clicking over noise more of a loud short kind of noise) so when it does that i have to pop the hood and unscrew the power wire from the battery and screw it back on and hope it starts.
but… now the stereo doesnt work, the defroster button doesnt turn on, and my overhead lights dont turn on either.
what could be my problem?
Connection problems, either the main grounds or dash harness grounds or main power connections, including batt., batt. to engine bay fuse box and main fuses un the engine bay fuse box.
I would also check all plugs to both the fuse boxes, unplug them, inspect for corrosion of the terminals and replug. 94
my interior lights dim when i turn on my headlights at night. anything?
What do you mean by “interior lights” ? 94
FYI, i recently put in some LED bulbs in my car. Break lights (third break light too), reverse lights, turn signals, and side markers. I noticed a difference when breaking, my lights don’t dim, but i see my rpm drop a little, but not as much as before. I’m guessing LEDs do help, so right now I’m planning on putting LEDs on my interior lights such as dome, and clusters too.