I have been researching with playing around with custom enclosures for speakers and doing some fancy things with fiberglass. I figured I would share the research I had done with my fellow G2ers if any of you had need for it.
I did not write any of these articles nor am I very good at it at all. Today was my 1st attempt! Have fun and please add any sites that you have found with good links to tutorials…you can never have to many references to pull from!
Mods please move this if I have it in the wrong forum, I wasn’t sure if there was a better place for resources such as this.
Dude awesome thread… i just went out and bought a bunch of tools and materials… hahah thank god for the sears card… but i mad my mold and then i laid my fabic and placed my resin on today… hope fully tom i will have pictures for everyone to see.
matt you might as well forget your spair tire if you want to have any kind of system back there. now if your looking just for a simple setup then its a matter of making a mold to fit over the spair tire and then building around that. I knew that I wouldnt be satisfied with something like that so heres what I did.
and here is it finished with everything but the lids on the amps
If you want some more information on fiberglassing or general car audio feel free to ask, as you have to start somewhere. With everything finished it hits in the mid - high 140s, and by building the box slightly on the large side I have room to upgrade to a dd 9512 or 10 when I get tired of the 3510
full sized spare face down, with a 12" sub sitting in a sealed box in it is what im going to attempt…
kind of like how the acura rsx is setup with the optional subwoofer in the rear…
and i’ve seen it done before here somewhere, it just looks like a big upside down cone with a speaker at the end, pretty much looks like a tapered bass tube…
Just remember that you need to think about t/s parameters when you go to make this box, and that limits both the drivers and the enclosure you can use. The dd 3500 require at least around 1.3f^3 up to 2f^3 after displacement and there was no way I could make that and retain the spair tire. It just depends on how big you want to go. I remember the one your talking about, and it is a pretty interesting design, but it would be nothing near what I personally was expecting. I like when you can feel the hair on your head stand up. Post up some pictures when your dont as I am sure there are many interested in something similar.
I have 1.8f^3 after displacement. It is raised 3 inches, and I would have also flush mounted the aeroport, but it wasnt quite deep enough. Depending on what you have in mind there should be plenty of room for a single driver setup.
You can have a sub in the tire well & keep the spare there are a cpl ways . I have a JL12W6 in my Teg & the spare is easy to get out. i’ll take a pic & post it later today
It depends on what you plan to do, and what all equiptment. You are going to want 3-5 cf for a ported l5. That is before displacement, and you are going also have to find room for your amp racks. You would be pretty hard press to have a steath install with something requiring that much room, not to mention the weight. I would recommend going with something small has better power handling and linear excursion to make the most of your space.
I started out by first choosing my equiptment and finding out what kind of space I would need, and then setting up a general layout. I then double checked the volume I had available and made sure it was adequite for the driver of choice. After that I masked off the wheel well and layed down two coats of fiberglass. When that setup I poped it out and added another 6 layers to it. When that had setup I put it back in the car and cut and scribed the sides. I then screwed the sides together and screwed onto the mold (like I said I scribed the sides to the contour of the floor so that everything was strong and level) I then glassed the seams with 3 layers of fiberglass, and then cut the top, and amp racks. When everything was finished I sprayed them with bedliner and then secured everything to the frame of the car. This is a project that I worked on almost every weekend from october to december as I had time.
im currently running the amp, crossover, a cap all bolted around the 10" sub box for now…
im deciding how i want to setup my system now… i had two 12" on a custom facing up box, but i didnt like that because it didnt allow me to keep my spare, so now i want a spare, but i want good sound too… and right now, i have the box under my rear strut bar, and angled up using a jack, and i have a spare tire on the side…
so im trying to think of someway to have one 12" or one 10" facing the back of the car, in a custom clean setup, but allowing me to have a full sized spare…
has anyone done that?
i’ve had bad sound experience with my two 12"s facing upwards… like it wasnt reflecting well…
My setup is an eclipse 8053 hu, eclipse 2212 amp on the highs, us amps md2 for my sub (about 2k rms @ 1ohm), alpine type-s up front (still debating on what to do with my fronstage), and a dd 3510d. Well and and other $500 in sound deadening materials if you want to count that.
How about a single 8 or 10 in a fg enclosure in the one of the back corners? You would still have to find a place for your amp rack, but It would allow you to keep your spair. Something like a eclipse 10, infinity reference, or maybe jl w6 of your looking to conserve space and plan to have a sealed enclosure accordingly
hahaha yea… when i had my two 12" infinity kappas in a sealed box facing back, with a 900 watt amp, crossover & cap, that was uber bass… but it took all the room in the trunk…
i had a single 10 in a spare tire box that fit inside the tire. I ha d the 10 inch sub two ppi amps and twoaudio control croosovers in my teg and you would of never knew it
now i’m doing a box for two 10 inch subs and flush mounting my amp and ditching the spare tire this time but still have the old box to toss in for long trips. i’ll take more pics with progress. Any questions about anything feel free to ask.
Looks good, interesting on how you used wood on the bottom. The main reason I chose to ditch the spair was that I had to sacrafice somewhere, and it helped to keep the weight down at the same time.
hey i just started fiberglassing last week and i was wondering what kind of material i should lay down first? i’m kinda lost on the steps… so any help would be apprecitated…
