HI…
I have LMA problem with my stock B16A engine…
The story is below…
Because my engine have some noisy “tick tick tick” sound,
My technician suspect is LMA problem,
So he just change 8 pieces…
Within a week,
Circle area on below picture “noisy” again,
So my technician change the new LMA for me with FOC…
2 day later,
Intake area NO.4 have some crazy noise again…
I so headache about it,
Imposible i so unlucky,right???
HELP PLEASE…
PS:1.I using 15-40 motor oil brand 76 and i check the oil level everyday,alway stand at MAX level…
2.I never REV over than 7500 rpm…
5W-30 is what Honda says to use in the motor… it has nothing to do with weather its a track or street car. Using an oil that is too thick will probably cause extra wear inside your motor.
Are you sure the LMA’s are actually bad? B series valvetrain is notoriously loud even when the valves are adjusted properly - speaking of which, are your valves adjusted properly? It’s really hard to give advice about a noisy valvetrain w/o actually hearing it in person to tell if it’s normal or something you need to be worried about.
You can use thicker oil if needed, shouldn’t cause any problems. However as the others stated, you should be running a 5w30 or 10w30. From what you said, it sounds like you’re leaking or burning a lot of oil when you run a lighter weight oil like that? Is that true? If so, is it a leak or are you burning it? If you’re losing enough oil that you have to top off everyday like you mentioned and you have to run a heavier oil… I’d say that’s a pretty serious issue and you should be more worried about that than your noisy valvetrain.
Oh, forgot to mention… what LMA’s has the mechanic been installing? Do a search for lost motion assemblies and look for the thread by G2Guru. Honda created a new type of LMA, I believe for Prelude engines, which is of a simpler design. It’s basically just a spring. Because it’s such a simple design it’s failure rate is near zero when compared to the old style.
That is true… the spring type LMA is a lot more reliable and will have more travel before coil-binding. However to use the Prelude LMA in a b-series head requires a .04" hardened-steel washer to be installed under the LMA in order to sit at the right height.
Colin, not sure if you’re aware or not, but the spring-type LMA has been available from Honda for b-series engines as well. No need to rock the Prelude ones anymore.
sounds like you got a serious oil burning or leakage problem and as stated before adjust your valves if you haven’t already and the injectors also make a pretty loud click that’s just the way they are and does the clicking noise increase with engine RPM?
Lost Motion Assembly. The kind that came stock in b-series heads are like a hydraulic lifter… when in vtec the camshaft rides on the lifter. The hydraulic ones were known to ‘stick’ once they get old and cause the notorious head-tick that most b-series engines have. The newer b-series lifter (and all Prelude lifters) are just a simple spring. Not an enclosed one.
[QUOTE=unified112;2152344]That is true… the spring type LMA is a lot more reliable and will have more travel before coil-binding. However to use the Prelude LMA in a b-series head requires a .04" hardened-steel washer to be installed under the LMA in order to sit at the right height.
Colin, not sure if you’re aware or not, but the spring-type LMA has been available from Honda for b-series engines as well. No need to rock the Prelude ones anymore.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I know about the spacer. My post was to direct him in the right path, not give every detail… If you searching the subject all the details, history, part numbers… can be obtained, no reason to repost it.
Alls well and good… I was just curious as to why Prelude LMAs were brought up when Honda makes them for the b-series as well. Sounds as if you’re recommending people to put Prelude ones in the b-series head. It is an old method that is no longer needed.
1.I not sure it’s 100% is LMA problem…but,when my technician change the new LMA,“tick tick” sound direct GONE…Just leave some tappet sound(technician say)…LMA just plug n play only,din’t do any valve adjustment…
2.When VTEC kick in,i not sure it’s still have “tick tick” sound because VTEC more louder than other sound…I just can say,more higher RPM,more louder the NOISY 'tick tick" sound…EXAMPLE…When i just release the gas drop from 5K RPM,i can listen the “tick tick” sound very clear…
3.About engine oil,HONDA say 5W-30 is recommended…But,it’s still suitable to use to a 150000KM engine without rebuild?
4.Yes,my oil burning damn serious…Whatever i have HIGH REV or din’t,i still need to add oil every 2 day to get maximum oil level…
5.Normally i driving without close the window…I almost every moment also taste the oil burning smell…But I din’t found my engine bay have any oil leaking…Even ONE drop also don’t have…So,the smell may be come from air intake or extrator leaking???
[QUOTE=blabong33;2152421]
3.About engine oil,HONDA say 5W-30 is recommended…But,it’s still suitable to use to a 150000KM engine without rebuild?[/QUOTE]
Yes. You shouldn’t need to increase the oil viscosity due to age. I still used the factory recommended weight on my engine which had well over 200k.
[QUOTE=blabong33;2152421]
4.Yes,my oil burning damn serious…Whatever i have HIGH REV or din’t,i still need to add oil every 2 day to get maximum oil level…[/quote]
You should figure out where your oil is going. That’s some serious oil loss. If the problem is terminal, then why bother with the LMA’s at all? You may just need a complete rebuild, at which point you can go over all engine components and replace anything that’s needed.
[QUOTE=Colin;2152507]Yes. You shouldn’t need to increase the oil viscosity due to age. I still used the factory recommended weight on my engine which had well over 200k.
You should figure out where your oil is going. That’s some serious oil loss. If the problem is terminal, then why bother with the LMA’s at all? You may just need a complete rebuild, at which point you can go over all engine components and replace anything that’s needed.[/QUOTE]
Thanks,Colin…
1.May i ask?About oil viscosity,every country also using the same oil type?Even is 4 season country or 1 season country?
2.HONDA MALAYSIA recommend 5W-40 for B series…Still thinking the brand because the price quite different much…
3.Normally for a B series engine,4 liter oil should be enough,right?But,i don’t know WHY my engine need around 5 liter to read maximum oil level…
4.16 pieces valve seal changed but still have white smoke…Next step is changing piston rings…REALLY NO IDEA…
5.New LMA changed(FOC) and valve adjustment on 28/05/2010…
Found the broken spring stuck inside the LMA seat…Till the LMA can’t sit properly…
You can change viscosity, and you may want to based on climate conditions. However, my point is that you’re putting a bandaid on the situation. You can try to change viscosity to prevent oil loss, but what’s the point? If you’re losing a quart every day or two, that’s too much oil loss. You’d have to run an incredibly low viscosity oil to prevent that oil loss. The problem is leakage or burning. Who cares about viscosity - fix the real problem!
Normal wear and tear on an engine shouldn’t require that you increase viscosity. On my older motors (150-250k) you might burn a quart every 3-10k miles using standard 5w30. If you change to a lower viscosity oil you aren’t going to drastically (if at all) change the amount of oil loss. So why run the wrong weight oil if it’s not doing anything significant?
If you have abnormal wear and tear causing massive oil loss (like in your situation) then you need to fix the cause of the problem, not add thicker oil.
Research oil weights to understand what the numbers mean. 5w30 and 10w30 are essentially the same exact thing. Only difference is on cold starts in cold climates. Once up to temp they are the same.
I don’t know why Honda of Malaysia recommends 5w40, it’s even possible that oils in your country are rated slightly differently than in the US. But even then, it’s not that much thicker than 5w30 so I don’t expect it to really have ANY effect on anything in your situation. It’s not going to cause a problem or anything. If that’s what your country recommends, then run it. Really this thread needs to stop talking about oil weight, it’s not a factor in anything going on here and we’re splitting hairs. Lets get back on topic.
Capacity is 4.2qts at oil change, and 5.1qts at engine overhaul (per Helms manual). 4.2qts doesn’t put the oil level at the exact top marker, it’ll be somewhere in between the two marks. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about it so much.
White smoke = water/coolant. Black smoke = fuel. Blue smoke = oil. Are you sure your smoke is white and not bluish/gray?
Typically if your valve seals are bad they will leak while the car is parked (oil leaks into cylinders w/o engine running), leading to a large puff of smoke upon initial startup but not much after that. This isn’t the case with piston rings that are bad.
[QUOTE=Colin;2152859]1) You can change viscosity, and you may want to based on climate conditions. However, my point is that you’re putting a bandaid on the situation. You can try to change viscosity to prevent oil loss, but what’s the point? If you’re losing a quart every day or two, that’s too much oil loss. You’d have to run an incredibly low viscosity oil to prevent that oil loss. The problem is leakage or burning. Who cares about viscosity - fix the real problem!
Normal wear and tear on an engine shouldn’t require that you increase viscosity. On my older motors (150-250k) you might burn a quart every 3-10k miles using standard 5w30. If you change to a lower viscosity oil you aren’t going to drastically (if at all) change the amount of oil loss. So why run the wrong weight oil if it’s not doing anything significant?
If you have abnormal wear and tear causing massive oil loss (like in your situation) then you need to fix the cause of the problem, not add thicker oil.
Research oil weights to understand what the numbers mean. 5w30 and 10w30 are essentially the same exact thing. Only difference is on cold starts in cold climates. Once up to temp they are the same.
I don’t know why Honda of Malaysia recommends 5w40, it’s even possible that oils in your country are rated slightly differently than in the US. But even then, it’s not that much thicker than 5w30 so I don’t expect it to really have ANY effect on anything in your situation. It’s not going to cause a problem or anything. If that’s what your country recommends, then run it. Really this thread needs to stop talking about oil weight, it’s not a factor in anything going on here and we’re splitting hairs. Lets get back on topic.
Capacity is 4.2qts at oil change, and 5.1qts at engine overhaul (per Helms manual). 4.2qts doesn’t put the oil level at the exact top marker, it’ll be somewhere in between the two marks. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about it so much.
White smoke = water/coolant. Black smoke = fuel. Blue smoke = oil. Are you sure your smoke is white and not bluish/gray?
Typically if your valve seals are bad they will leak while the car is parked (oil leaks into cylinders w/o engine running), leading to a large puff of smoke upon initial startup but not much after that. This isn’t the case with piston rings that are bad.[/QUOTE]
Hi,Colin…Sorry late reply…
1-3.Oil changed to fully 5W-40…Feel the power of oil…Thanks a lot about your recommendation…
4.After a TEST,confirm is light BLUE…Within this few week,i will send in to shop to checking the problem…Then i will update again to end my post…
