Im definitely gonna stick with the tires I have as of now, simply because I have them and they’re working for the moment lol. But when the time comes for a new set, im definitely going to do more research than I did before purchasing these.
Mainly the car is just a Daily Driver, I’ve never taken it to the 1/4mile track… But I would actually like to take it to the local road course and have some fun there.
But before all that, I just want the damn thing back on the road!!
oh yeah, we werent expecting you to jump up and order a set of tires lol. usually my advice is given as far ahead of time as i can. i figured you still even had the falkens on steelies and were going to burn through those too before you bought new tires for the meshies.
anyway i feel its way easier to prevent a spark than to put out a forest fire, so ask away. advice here is freeeeeeeee!!!
Slight update.
I installed the new clutch cable I ordered to replace my old, stretched cable… so this was the first time I was able to actually move the car under its own power since building the new motor… and I must say…
The feel of vtec never ceases to amaze me. The motor pulls way hard (And didnt blow up upon vtec engagement!!!)
Just need to start back on the paint and get that handled, then the beast is ready for the road.
BIG thanks to Colin for the speedy delivery and rock-bottom price of the clutch cable… saved my ass for sure.
w00t!!!
tell us more about that header, im curious how it is?
Its hard to give a comparison, being that the previous header was the stock LS unit, on the stock LS motor.
That being said, this header does NOT clear the stock crossmember… Modification to the crossmember is necessary. But I’m planning to get to the FullRace Traction Bar, so it wasn’t a huge concern to me.
Though it does sound pretty damn mean, and the piping feels solid with minimum bends. Overall I’m happy with it.
Driving the car at like 2000-3000RPM is freakin loud. Anything above that is WAY loud lol. But that is expected of most any car running open-header.
I’ll be installing the RS*R unit and Carsound Cat in the next few days hopefully.
So I visited my tuner yesterday and got me a Neptune basemap. Vtec engage at 5200rpm, launch control at 4200rpm or higher… CEL shiftlight at 8k and redline at 8600rpm. I told him that I don’t plan to rag on the motor so I don’t mind keeping the redline lower. When I have it put on the dyno the redline will probably be closer to 9k.
I also finally put the exhaust on so I could take some measurements and find out how long my catalytic converter needs to be. And while I was under there, I installed my PasswordJDM shifter bushings and new bitch pin and retaining clip. The shifts do feel quite a bit more solid, but I haven’t driven it yet, just sat in it and shifted with the car off. Once I get the cat all welded up and installed, I’ll update with my opinion on how the shifter bushings feel.
On to the pics.
All I can really say is “WoW”
absolutely awesome build and very nice choice of color:rockon: considering what you did with the first paint job. Im sure this one will look like glass when its all done:up:
proper built with quality parts FTW
Kind words guys… thanks! It should be a fun car when all is said and done.
Damn! Where you’d get the brand new RS*R at?
I’ve actually had it sitting in my closet for over a year… as the title of the thread indicates, this build has been in process for way too damn long! Lol. But yeah, I bought it directly from RS*R like 1.5yrs ago. It has since been discontinued, correct?
Okay so, today I ran across a strange issue…
After recently putting in the motor, I ran a new ground cable for the motor. From the chassis to the valve cover. The only other ground (besides the Alternator-to-fusebox) was the main ground for the battery (which odly enough runs straight to the transmission, not to the chassis, odd?).
The other day when I started the car and let it idle… I noticed whenever I would blip the throttle, the clock and gauge lights would get brighter… when it idled down, the lights and clock would dim and my temp gague started to run hot… now, its been over a year and a half since driving the car, but I do remember the headlights dimming when coming to a stop… so I thought maybe my alternator ground is needing replaced, but couldn’t think why the temp gauge was going wonky.
Now, I have a steel-braided oil line running from the block, through the firewall by the throttle cable. I reached down to move it, and all the sudden the clock and dash lights go bright and my temp gague falls down to operating temp! I move the cable back the other way, the clock and dash dim… I was like wtf?!? After thinking about it, having only one ground on the valve cover, and nothing to the block, the motor wasn’t grounded correctly, hence my dim and temperature issue.
So needless to say, I ran a new ground from the chassis to the block and got rid of my small electrical gremlin.
And after a week and a half, I finally got my flanges for my cat! Now I can weld it up and the motor/swap will be complete! Just paint work left, meh.
HELL YA BRO! good job on the build. hard work and time, goes a long way.
Thanks man… I’m hoping that I can get it finished up soon. Money is slow right now and I still need to buy a few materials for paint… But hopefully in the next 2 months its back on the road and putting a big smile on my face. I know its all worth the wait but DAMN, it can be hell! lol
subscribing.
can’t wait to see the finished product
Looking good, man. Was the direct-to-metal primer/sealer more expensive than regular primer/sealer?
If I recall correctly the primer/sealer was like $80 a gallon for the sealer and reducer. Hardener was another $15-20. I like this stuff because once its cured, its a bitch to get off… which is exactly what a good direct-to-metal primer should do. Hopefully it prevents rust well also.
Will you be tuning on a dynapack or dynojet? If it’s a dynapack we can very easily extrapolate how your numbers might compare to mine. Our engines are essentially the same except:
Pretty much all of that stuff should yield you more power, except for the cat and intake, and depending on if you’re better, worse, or even regarding the throttle body. I hit 188hp and if you’re looking for 190hp on a dynapack, I think you’ll hit that easy considering those mods you have should easily make 2hp more than me.
If you’re looking for 190whp on a dynojet then we can make some basic calcs (according to some rough numbers from Church’s website). 190whp on a dynojet should be about 216-221 at the flywheel. With those same numbers my engine should be putting out about 208-213hp at the flywheel. So the question would be if those mods you have would result in an extra 3-13hp (at the flywheel). And I think that’s definitely likely.
Have you scoped any similar builds on the H-T All Motor or Tech forums? I would think the displacement alone would bring you up to those higher levels above my engine (assuming everything else is legit, as it seems to be). And IMO you gotta get that thing on a dyno ASAP! I assume you did all the necessary break in procedures and used the proper oil. But still, having a non-stock engine running for any length of time w/o tuning scares me.
:thumbup:
Thanks for sharing, wish I could do half the stuff you are doing!