Hey guys,
I am getting the parts together for my engine bulid, I want to stay away from Forced Induction or LS/VTEC. I am going all motor. This will be my first motor build. I am waiting on getting a motor stand to get started.
The set-up is as follows:
Block:
B18A1 Block
P30 Pistons Or does anyone have any suggestions on aftermarket brand? I want more compression. As I said I am a noob but I know how to wrench.
ACL Performance Race Main/Rod Bearings
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head & Main Studs
shotpeened ls rods or any suggestions on a good rod?
ACL Bearings full gasket kit or cometic (undecided)
Head:
B18A1 Head
Blox Intake Manifold
4-2-1 Race Header
Cometic, Hondata or ACL Race Intake and exhaust gaskets.
3" Intake
Crower 403’s
Crower Valve Springs & Ti Retainers
New Steel Valve Locks( anyone know a good brand?)
New Valve Seals ( anyone know a good brand?)
The Oldone Flat faced Valves or any suggestions?
Adjustable Cam gears ( any good brands?)
Blend valve bowls and 3 angle valve job
I am open to all advice and suggestions
Does anyone know any good desktop dyno programs that are cheap or free?
did you already buy all those parts? seriously theres alot of other threads here that document build ups… just follow along with any lsvtec block build, since its basically the same shit, but built for more rpms… then just slap your head on
Thats an ignorant thing to say, I have seen plenty of All motor LS builds. Yes they don’t make a lot of power but it will keep the driver happy. Ls-Vtec are a pain in the ass to tune. They will always be off on timing and they can have catastrophic failures if not built right. your basically comparing apples to a hand grenade. I have decided against my Ls/vtec build because i was realizing that i had too much money into it to just have it possibly fail. I spent around $2500 in parts alone for my Ls vtec build. You can build a nice LS motor for that price. I have since sold all my parts, and i didn’t even make all my money back, i only made $1500-$1800 back so ya. its not worth the risk nor the money spent for minor gains and vtec!
well i have seen out here pretty good built and reliable ls/vtec swaps here. its all about the money yes, but i would consider it still just built the right way. but for me id go for a gsr swap.
timing is never right on an LSvtec, beacause you cannot use the timing marks on the cam gears to set timing. its going to be slightly off because the LS blocks are a little bit shorter than the gs-r. if you go by the timing marks it WILL be off. no different than milling your head or decking the block. just watch the motor when you are installing the cams.
building a strong LS all motor short block is no difference than building a LSvtec short block
building a lsvtec head, is the same as any vtec head.
seriously the only difference between a LS, LSvtec and a vtec motor is that there is a different head on the block. if you can get the head to seal, get the oil line to seal. there should be no problem.
the fact that people blow rod bearings on an lsvtec and say its because they have an LSvtec makes no sense. there’s no difference between running a LSvtec and LS to 8500k. its the same freakin block.
if the HG doesnt seal, get a new HG and try it again. people F up on the HG sometimes regardless of what motor you run.
every B series motor is hard on the rings and the cylinders, i dont care if you have a b20 or a ITR motor. it will burn oil after some point in time, just because of the side-loading on the cyl walls. cylinders turn oval, the x-hatch dissapears. its all normal. that doesnt mean a motor is unreliable. if it doesnt burn oil, you just didnt drive it hard enough for it to happen yet, or you’re running a thicker oil.
if you are really weary… just spin it to 8k. an LS all motor will hit that with 404-405 crower cams anyways, and ITR cams are pretty much just as big as those.
if you do seriously feel more comfortable with a LS motor. thats perfectly fine, you can still be happy, its just that anything i’ve seen with more than 185 whp idles pretty rough. fastest i’ve seen was a 14.2@97. they are cheaper however! if you ever blow it up to rebuild
Sorry, just hyped to see others doin’ the same built type I’m gettin’ ready to do in a few months. I love the price, & I’m just not a big fan VTEC. It’s not for me.
I’m goin’ a bit milder than you though. No pistons or rods, no valves. Everything else is pretty much the same. Glad to see my choices are good to others as well.
Definetly subscribing to your thread. Keep it up!
:getsome::manual:
Corniest quote ever: “Get yours today! JDM is IN!”
id be interested in hearing how this goes/went because i am looking at rebuilding my b18a1, its got 228k on it and i think its time to really get some power to it
Personally I do not agree with a building a non vtec honda motor for all motor it’s just lame…If you are trying to save money and work with what you have then just go ahead with it because that’s understandable…but you must understand that you WILL not make as good numbers as an VTEC head will, not be able to rev as high VTEC is the best thing about Honda Motors…what are you goals for the car and HP???
basically we are just doing it to be different. I understand that most people dont understand. HP numbers I am really unsure. The car is a basically a well balanced daily driven show car.
will the timing be off on a b20vtec also?? I have a b20b sitting in my garage al torn apart waiting for a rebuild to put into my 91 teg, but i want to do a vtec head or would it be cheaper and better to go with a obd1 b18c or a obdo b16 or obd1 b16???
I am unsure on the timing at this point. What you decide to build is your choice but the b20b with a vtec head would most likely be the cheap alternative.
My timing is dead on on my LSVTEC, oh wait do you guys degree your cams? Hmmm guess not.
LSVTEC’s can be build for reliability, if you want to put over 100k miles into your motor, rebuild it to stock specs, once you start upgraded anything over bolt ons, your reliability starts to decrease. It’s just plain and simple…