After doing a search throughout the forums, I found the CORRECT part number 52385-SK7-N02 for rear trailing arm bushings from Acura. I ordered a pair from my local dealership for $80 each($65 US).
I found Wes Vann’s page about trailing arm bushings (http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bushing/bushing.html), and have found a bit of general advice searching the forums that you should have air tools, a torch, and probably access to a press (but not necessarily). I have a copy of the 93 Integra Helm’s shop manual. Now all I need to find is a good how-to write up on changing the bushings. Honda-Tech had a dead link, and most posts on this board are regarding the ES bushings because these OEM ones weren’t made available until the last few years.
So, anybody that could direct me to a good write-up on changing these rear trailing arm bushings, I would appreciate it. Thanks,
Pretty much explained by all the posts you’ve probably already read.
Use a hammer (or press) to remove the old bushing. (make a note of the orientation of the bushing before removing)
Most likely the middle of the bushing will fall right out, if not, cut it out. Then use the sleeve from the old bushing to help you press the new bushing into place using a press. Make sure to install the bushing in the same orientation as the original (or make the adjustments noted by Wes… personally I’m not sure if it matters either way).
I have been told that you can put the bushings in w/o using a press. But in my experience… this is BS. There’s no way mine were going into place w/o some form of a press to balance the force along the circumference of bushing sleeve.
The hardest part for me was getting the press setup. Because the middle metal part of the bushing sticks out so far it can be difficult to rig up the right materials so the press puts pressure on the bushing w/o it getting in the way. Sorta hard to explain, but you’ll understand once you start. It’ll be handy to have the old bushings laying around (like I noted above) as well as scraps of wood and metal to use as shims.
The only other question I think I have is, do these correct Integra bushings come with their own new sleeves? I know that the Civic bushings that people used to use had to re-use the sleeves so they would be the right diameter to fit.
The oem bushings for the DA are an exact replacement of the ones that are in there, just pull the old ones out and put in the new ones. You do not need to use ANY of the old bushing parts. The only time you need to use old parts is if you’re installing ES bushings or if you’re using bushings not meant for the DA TA.
my mechanic did it when i got mine changed. but you DO need to remove the trailing arm to do it. he tried to do it without removing the arm and it was impossible to reinstall.
there are LOTS of posts on trailing arm bushings on here so seaching should bring stuff up.
I believe someone here mentioned using a section of PVC pipe as a socket to push the metal sleeve back in to the arm.
Do you know HOW your mechanic did it w/o using a press? I know that mine fit pretty darn tight, I don’t see how it could have been done w/o some form of “press”.
more than likely you will need a press. if they were anything like mine, there is no way to do it without one. I even used the press to put them back in to ensure a proper fit. I used a piece of pvc pipe as a socket to push out the old bushing sleeves. (schdule 40 2.5" slip coupler i believe)
that pvc idea is a good one, initially I wouldn’t have thought it would be strong enough… but it must be. Plus its probably fairly thick pvc. If I ever install some more rta’s I’ll definitely go pick up some pvc parts to make it easier. Cause using all the strange shims that I did was a pita.
Funny, I had found that link before already, and was just about to post it to others who are looking for a step-by-step. Definitely a lot easier than my Haynes manual made it sound like, because all you basically have to do is remove the E-brake cable from the trailing arm, remove the brake caliper and brackets and let it hang down, and in my case, remove the ABS sensor.
Unfortunately, every fastener was so tight from the years of rust and grime buildup, that I broke the head off of the upper control arm-to-RTA bolt on one side of the car. And on the other side, all 5 of the bolts were so tight that my impact wasn’t even getting them loose, so I soaked everything down in lithium grease, and I’m going to let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. I’ll throw some pics up of how destroyed the bushings are, it looks like they are about to fall right out.
Got the trailing arms out, and put everything back together with the new bushings. Expensive, but hopefully worth it. One thing I would recommend to those who are also changing their bushings would be to take the entire Upper Control Arm off with the trailing arm. On both sides of the car, I was able to get all the other bolts loose to take the arm off, except for the through bolt from the upper control arm-trailing arm.
Expensive??? :shrug: IMO its dirt cheap considering how much better the car feels afterwards. Plus, its cheap cause the only known option before was to buy complete trailing arms w/ new bushings which are around $250 per side. Thats why no one went oem and they all got the poly ones.
When I did mine I just bashed the old ones out with a hammer, and bashed the new ones in. I used the Noltec ones that don’t require the sleeve off the factory ones though - a direct replacement.
Don’t get me wrong, I think they are good investment now that they sell just the bushings without the entire arm assembly, because they should last as long as your car will. I just wouldn’t consider $70 for a single bushing “cheap”, that’s all :tsk:
As for my direct replacement bushings, I did the same with just a hammer. One side required about 3 swings and it popped out, the other took a little more effort. The hardest part about putting them in was getting them started, after that it was pretty easy going.
