So I called the shop I was talking about and it turns out the hytech replica header they’re selling is the small tube version not the large tube version, he said its fine though for an N/A JDM B18C(R) with stock internals he said I wouldn’t want to use the large tube version. He has a couple left for the $350 price.
Right now I’m also looking at the headers available on honda-tech.com for order but it seems like a lot of them have really died down and the nitrate coated versions aren’t available anymore which really sucks because the nitrate coating has a lot of advantages…
I have a Hytech knock off.
Be aware that the outlet flange is 2.5" and located further back on the chassis than the OEM setup. This will require a custom cat/test pipe setup to match up with your cat back.
Your Megan header likely has a smaller 2.25" flange as well.
Yeah once I finally make my header decision I plan on getting a whole new exhaust built around the header. I’m going to do a full 2.5" stainless exhaust with Magnaflow hi-flo catalytic converter and a resonator and I’m not sure which muffler yet. Then I’m going to sell my current exhaust setup to someone with a basic B18A setup or something because its perfect for an engine with that type of output.
[QUOTE=therealkroysc;2164111]Building a new exhaust past the header is the best way to do it.
Take a look at this exhaust kit. My friend just purchased one and it turned out great. I wish I would have known about them when I did mine. http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servlet/the-72/90-dsh-93-ACURA-INTEGRA-EXHAUST/Detail[/QUOTE]
That’s a good link, but I’d probably go with KTeller since they’ve been working with Hondas for awhile and have a presence on H-T and are a part of the Honda Community. Price is similar as well.
If it were me I’d scrap the shitty clamps and what not supplied by the two companies above and fork over the extra dough for flanges and gaskets which mimic the OEM setup. But that’s me.
True that. Clamps are no good. Welding and flanges are the way to go. I just remembered something about the Tri-y setup. You will need a JDM 2.5" flange and the donut gasket off of a S2000 to match up with the back of the header. Not sure if these kits come with them or not.
Ahhhh that is some very nice stuff there thanks for the links guys. I’m saving up $$ now to completely re-do my exhaust, I’ll post the results when I finally get it done.
What do you guys think about what that shop said about the small tube and big tube versions of the hytech replica, is he right? or should i really go for the big tube version with the JDM B18C(R)?
Bigger tubing is always going to be better imo. Now is it worth it for the price difference? That is a question that needs to be asked.
Seriously though, I’ve been completely happy with the sound/quality/performance of my eBay header for $75 shipped. If I was fully built and cam’d and all of that, then I would probably see better gains from a quality/name brand header. But having a mild lsvtec (Type-R cams, Type-R IM, type-r spec pistons, nearly a B18c5 clone), a eBay header with 2.5" collector does the job well, especially for the price.
That’s the exact one I bought… same seller and everything. It fit well, even matched up with the support-bracket on the back of the motor. Now, I haven’t actually driven the car on the road since tyhe swap, but there was a dyno sheet for a mildly built lsvtec (gsr head, pr3 pistons, R cams) that pulled 190whp and I think 146wtq. Not bad for a dented eBay header that they had.
I’ve run my motor for about 20 minutes so far, and the header actually turned a light gold color… looks pretty sweet imo. And for $70’ish shipped… you really can’t ask for much, but I think they go above and beyond expecations when you take the cost into consideration. I think (pipe size wise) it is close to that of a 4-1 JDM header if I’m not mistaken. Feels like a solid piece. But as I said, for the prive, if I had to buy another one in two years, I wouldn’t mind in the slightest bit.
Ground clearance wise… my car has a moderate drop, and the header sits about half an inch lower than a Sprite can. Clearance could be a ‘little’ better, but I can definately live with it as is.
edit here is a picture of the clearance. Sorry for it being so huge, I uploaded it from my phone and didn’t have a chance to re-size it.
If you search for my build thread you can see my car from a side view and see the ride height and that should give you a decent idea of how the header hangs.
Wow thats pretty crazy, especially for the price. Thanks for the link and all the info, its definitely on my list of ones to consider now lol. fuck thats cheap
Here is a pic of it the day I got it… it was exactly as advertised.
The downside, being that it wasn’t designed for a G2 is that you have to notch the crossmember pretty good to get adequate clearance. But I plan to get a traction bar within the next year so it wasn’t a huge concern for me.
That looks pretty much identical to my Megan 4-1 (which was purchased years ago by a friend). Looks like companies are making knock offs of knock offs now, lol.
Knocked-off Knock-offs is where its at!! Heh. Like I said, for the price, I can’t see much of a downside with it. Maybe I’ll have a different opinion in a few months when its actually being driven.
As far as clearances… I can’t say for sure because I deleted my ac/ps with my swap. But I can say that the AC looks like it has plenty of room. The PS looks a little closer, but I imagine that it should still bolt up. I can take a pic of that if you’d like.
[QUOTE=unified112;2164273]Now, I haven’t actually driven the car on the road since tyhe swap, but there was a dyno sheet for a mildly built lsvtec (gsr head, pr3 pistons, R cams) that pulled 190whp and I think 146wtq. Not bad for a dented eBay header that they had.
[/QUOTE]
I just barely made it over 200hp (200.2 at the hubs) with my Megan header. It’ll definitely handle over 200whp, not sure how high, or how high it compares to the nicer pieces on the market, but you can easily make over 200whp with this header, especially if you’re running more displacement and/or a more built motor than I.
I have some random photos that might help you figure out if it’ll fit w/ the AC/PS. But like Unified112 I ditched all of that stuff YEARS ago.
Looks like Colin is on top of it. The way my header sits looks damn near identical to his.
As I said the AC looks fine, but the PS looks like a close fit.
On a side-note (forgive me for going off topic): Colin, have you done something else lately to your motor? For some reason I thought I recall less peak numbers… Er, oh, wasn’t it 200whp with the 3" Velocity Stack intake? That sounds familiar. I’m going to have to re-read your post and see what your setup has done. I’m really hoping for over 190whp with my lsvtec, but I dunno if it will be had. Maybe take a peek at my build and give your insight?
Correct, 200.2hp was with the muffler removed and a 3" velocity stack, no tuning. And remember, that’s on a dynapack, not a dynojet. Dynapack numbers are pretty much always higher than dynojet due to the fact that it’s measured at the hub opposed to at the actual wheel. LMK what your build list looks like, or link me to it, I wouldn’t mind checking it out.
