I had a little accident one nite and now my lower ball joint is bent… Not the actual ball joint BUT the bolt that holds the castlenut, and my tire is wearing out on the outer part on the tire.
Can I change this Lower Ball joint myself? Autozone was very generic on their instructions but my haynes manual says it’s a Machine shop that can take out the LBJ (Lower Ball Joint) from the Steering knuckle assembly.
Thanks ya’ll
BTW. anyone in Atlanta, GA?? =) :rockon:
youll need a press to get it out of the knuckle. there is also a smaller tool that autozone should rent out.
I just had a friend do mine at his shop. I took him the knuckle you take off te c clip an hit it with a hammer the you slide the new one in no need for a press. I watch him do it in like 3 min an was like dam that eazy
yup thats all u have to do and when i found out it is that easy i was mad that i always paid 25 to get it suposevly presed in with a machine
really? damn. i was always afraid to have to pound the hell outta the new one. Ive seen people do hubs like that too. not my style i guess
isnt there a little lip on the hub that blocks it a little bit? i woulda changed mine last year but saw that lip stickin out n said fawk this
That lip is just a dust shield, just use a flathead screwdriver and pry it off… comes off real easy.
But anyways… it’s a fairly simple procedure. If you have already changed your axle before then you’re really half way there.
Next, take the arm that contains the ball joint completely off the car (it’s easier this way) and then pry off the dust shield then with a circlip plier, take off the circlip located on the bottom of the ball joint.
Have a friend hold onto the whole arm and with a heavy sledgehammer, pound the ball joint (from the bottom) and it will pop right out (takes about 3 pounds).
Next, use a ball joint press tool (you can rent from Kragen) and again, have a friend hold onto the arm and use the bj press tool and press in the new bj. When it’s completely in the arm… put on the circlip to lock the bj in place.
Reassemble everything in reverse and don’t forget to use a fresh new castle nut pin (forgot what they’re called).
unless u get some cheapo balljoints they need to be pressed in. i went to autozone and got the right balljoint and after spending 20 minutes with a hammer trying to get it in i went and got the real tool for the job. the new one shouldnt “slide” in its supposed to be a press fit which requires a balljoint tool or a press
i would recommend pressing them in just easier, you can do it with a good hammer tho i’ve done it many times but yeah balljoint tools make it much much easier, i wish places near me rent tools like this theres a couple places but the tools they have are always beat and like generic multi vehicle tool kits i’ve just started purchasing the real stuff and amassed a nice collection of tools for my garage 
Never trust a Mechanic
In a rush to get that ball joint replaced before an expected road-trip I took it to a mechanic…
I shouldn’t have ever trusted the bastard with my car all freakin day… I Swear! Now my steering clanks once after every sudden turn.
I think that he took off the Upper Control Arm and replaced it with a used one or one that belonged to another model… First off he told me that the upper ball joint was a pain to remove 'cause (according to him) it had already been messed with and it was a bitch to put back together. But the whole upper control arm looks cleaner and in far worse condition than any other parts of my car… (As though he had THAT upper Control Arm stashed some place waiting for someone to bring in the right model and him to take the good part.)
Also, I recall the Upper Ball Joint was WELDED on the Upper Control Arm… This MthrFckr put rings and told me that the rings were like that when I took it there.
Point blank… I’ve had my car for over 5 years and never was there any play in the steering, the Shit-brained tard ruined my upper suspension. =(
I told him that I noticed some play in the steering where it clanks if I turn and he blamed it on the steering ARM! The whole fukin arm! Who that FUCK does he think I am?
Pissed
Could I prove to the cops that what he did fucked my car up? his negligence or theft? I already looked 4 some pics of my previous fixes but have none of the Driver’s side upper control arm. And I can’t really prove the fact that this morning my car had no play in the steering and now it does…
OH! the bastard told me that he didn’t test drive my car BEFORE changing the lower ball joint, He called me at 12:00pm to tell me that the Ball joint I took him wasn’t the right size, and that there was some play in the steering arm.
i’ll take pics of the mediocrecy he pulled there. =(
Thanks, I Solemnly swear NEVER to take my Teggy to any fukin mechanic ever! :rockon:
if your going to take it in bring it to a dealer man, people try to save money by going to side of the road mechanics and this is what happens… sorry to hear about it i doubt theres much you can do about it, also i’d check to make sure everything is tight who knows if the upper arm is even for a da?
Even at a dealer, once they replaced something I had already replaced for new… the Ignition Coil… (Somehow that turned out…) (OMG! that wasn’t even the problem >__<, it was oil reaching inside the Combustion Chamber through the Valve Cover gasket rings that was making my car studder. I knew I should’ve said no to the mech when he called and suggested a new cap, rotor, and Ign. Coil)
watever! lol, Thanks 4 the concern.
What do u mean by DA? I’ve been trying to figure DAt out my entire G2IC-life lol
well i guess the correct term would be G2 lol but DA/DB1/DB2 are the chassis codes on our cars… not sure if you were serious but i’ll define it anyways
The upper control arm is kind of a bitch to remove so I bet you anything that he tried pounding it out and accidently hit the ball joint itself instead of the arm and broke the ball joint… either that or just retorque all your bolts, maybe it’s still loose…
If you have time… unbolt the hub arm from the upper ball joint and wiggle it to see if it’s all fcuked up…
yes make sure the suspension is torqued to spec not just tight. if not shit can become loose and to much can cause premature failure. like the ball joints and outer tie rod ends. if your lower ones are bad chances are the upper ones as well.upper ball joints are not replaceable you need the whole arm. dont go cheap please. and after its all in technically you should get an alignment
Hybrid90: Well he was stupid as fuck 'cause it’s obvious that he didn’t have to pull the UBJ out of the Upper control arm. I mean it’s just common sense, rite? Take off Castle nut from UBJ and push the bolt in as u pull the UCA out… no need for dumbass to take out the UBJ. SPECIALLY when the ubj is supposed to be welded onto the UCA.
Man A: I’m definitely having to replace the whole upper control arm for new, after u see what that Ape did to the UBJ u’ll literally freak lol. Pics are a must for this one.
LoWnSlOwDa9: Thanks, I really had no clue. =)
thanks all… this really helped… what would i do without this effin’ forum i swear!!! <3 no homo on the heart…
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293262677&sr=8-1 One of these bad boys will work too. Harbor Freight has them for cheaper. This is what I used to change mine. A piece of cake!!!
I used that same kit from harbor freight and it worked great. Made it so easy and no need for a press. Putting the spindle in a vice helps too.
Also, you don’t really need to go out and spend $80+ on that set because your local auto parts stores (Kragens, Autozone, Napa Auto etc…) rents the same type of kit out for like $7/day… just saying.