Shown in the picture the lower control arm (I think?) ball joint is cracked and grease is coming out. I assume this needs to be replaced (I am trying to get the car safetied). Should I just purchase another lower control arm from a wrecker or G2IC member with a good lower ball joint or what? I noticed it is pressed in and I don’t have a press. What to do?
As highlighted in the picture the outer tie rod end is screwed onto something to do with the steering. I need the replace the outer tie rod because the joint on it is bad. I can’t get the dam tie rod off because it is seized on. Any ideas?
Both of my ebrake cables look like that! They are rusted shut and won’t rotate around that pivot screw. Do I need to buy new cables or can I rebuild these ones? They are rusted solid and won’t budge.
your balljoint is bad, definitely. you can actually have a machine shop press a new one in for about $40-$50 for the part, and maybe like a $5-$10 pressing fee. they usually have like a 1-2 hour turnaround time, but in a pinch they might be able to do it while you wait. but basically it’ll be around that much for a new joint, and any machine shop can do it (some parts stores even have balljoint installation available–best bet is to ask them). your local honda dealership may be able to do it, if they can’t they can tell you where they go to have it done.
you’re holding the outer tie rod in your hand. it’s attached to the inner tie rod. get some carb cleaner or brakleen and a wire brush, get it all scrubbed up and cleaned off. then get some aerokroil or other QUALITY creeping lube (i use something called “pb” it’s magnetic, yellow can) and leave it on the threads for a couple minutes. then what you’ll need to do is get a 19 mm and a 21mm wrench, and put the 19 on the outer tie rod where it’s hexed and the 21 on the locknut you see in the pic (the big nut on the inner rod). if you’re looking into the fenderwell from outside the car, you want to turn the large locknut clockwise. might take some elbow grease, but it’ll go eventually. just have patience, and throw out a few cuss words if you need to.
buy and run new cables.
www.acuraautomotiveparts.org has really good prices, just make sure you’re aware of their shipping policies ($30 minimum order, $5 handling fee, then shipping is like 5-10 bucks for the items you’re looking at).
On the first ball joint, I’ve replaced those before, and surprisingly you may be able to get the old one out with a hammer. There may be a clip ring just below the rubber boot (between the boot and the knuckle) that you have to remove before removing the ball joint, not positive it’s always there. Also you need to remove the dust ring that goes over the bearings in the knuckle as well, it’s on the backside and should be pretty obvious what it is if you look closely, just use a screwdriver or similar object to carefully pry it out. Just hammer the end of the ball joint with a decent sized hammer and it may just pop out, both of mine did. I just tapped a new ball joint from autozone into the hole and secured it with the supplied clip ring, and good as new. Very easy replacement if it comes out easily. Good luck!
i was told that it needs to be pressed in…so…it can be just hammered into place? just throw on the retaining clip and good as new? sounds easier than it should…i gotta get mine done asap.
i need new:
both ball joints
sway bar bushings
outer tie rod end links
right lower control arm
trailing arm bushings
should be alot of fun!!! NOT!
all that work was quoted as $912 @$70/hr. thats a hell of alot of money that i dont have to spend so what ever i can do on my own i will.
i am seasoned veteran at this i just replaced both of my ball joint without a press just take the knuckle out remove the ring from the one end and just hammer that sucker out it doesnt take too much force and when you put the new one in just use a big socket that is similar size to the joint(to apply the pressure over the housing and not on anything that will brake) and bada bing your set.
oh and when you hit the joint out the wheel bearing cap will pop off cause the way the bearing sits in the knuckle just tap it back in LIGHTLY with your hammer after you install the new one