Ok, i have a built and boosted jdm b18b w/ wiseco 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, wiseco 3layer steel headgasket, dsm 450 blue tops, dsm 14b, intercooled, walbro 255, running a custom xenocron basemap, my question is where would i install the knock sensor for tuning and how wou:d i wire the sensor to the ecu for datalogging?
well, you need the engine out of the car. you have to drill a whole in the block close to the top of the cylinders without hitting and oil jackets or water jackets. wiring it is easy, you just run a wire to the ecu. in my opinion, leave the knock sensor off and you bre to tune. you can eliminate the use of the sensor. all the sensor does is shut down the engine if it detects knock. the factory honda sensors are junk anyway. a lot of people will say that you need it, but if your engine is built right, then its not a big deal.
So i should be good without one? i have a couple of friends willing to help me tune but they are used to 600hp awd dsm’s and use their knock sensors to tune
how much hp are you looking at putting out? i just realized, you only live hour and half from me. there is a guy here that tunes with BRE. he is great and cheep. he can hook you up.
I want to try for 300hp but i’ll settle for 275 somewhere around there on 12lbs, i dont realy have the money for a tune thats why i was gonna go with my dsm friends cuz they enjoy doin that stuff… im still having issues with the studs backing off the t3/14b adaptor plate and my turbo droppin an 1/8" in the back and i have a boost leak that just apeared… so it might be a while till i get the money and everything set perfect. i keep meanin to roll up to IF to check the scene but im still a little sketch about the studs
well, i’d be careful about runin your car without a tune, thats more harmful to your engine that runin 20lbs of boost. the guy here would do it for under 300 and that includes socketing your ecu and datalogin it. he’s awesome. just save up some money quick cuz it will save you a lot in the long run
I know a few guys that put the knock sensor in where tha bottom alternator bracket goes. I say get the ecu chipped and just bypass the knock sensor (if the ecu your using reuires it) and get it tuned asap.
I already have it socketed with a basemap for my setup, its dataloged and everything on a pr4 obd0 ecu
for some reason i thought you were running a ls vtec. with a pr4 non vtec you can’t even hook up a knock sensor. the computer won’t read it. that being said, if you have that all done, then id bet he tune it for $100
How can i get ahold of him? and since theres another g2 member in this redneck state is there any meets or anything close by, ive been wantin to talk honda with someone but everyone around her speaks diesel and civics with their single slammer 2hp motors
get an account on idahomotorsports.com
look up lscivic. he knows his stuff.
there are a lot of honda guys on there
Ok thanks, now i got another problem, i have a t3/14b adaptor plate to bolt the 14b to my t3 mani. the plate is countersunk and has allen bolts holding it to the mani, the threads were drilled out of the turbo and i have studs dropping down from plate through the turbo and bolts holding it, my problem is that the studs keep backing out of the plate and droppin the turbo enough that it leaks bad. like 1/4" space. ive tried loctite and lockwashers but the locktite burns off and the washers heated up and esentially turned to normal washers. is their anything i can do to prevent the studs from backing out? i dont have the cash to pay for a new setup or even cash realy.
try using some 1500 degree RTV (gasket maker) you’ll have to wait till its cold and let it set 24 hours but it should work like loctite but should hold up to the temp