I’m planning on building an all motor LS, I know I can go LS/VTEC and make more power but I don’t want to go VTEC for now so that’s out of the question. I’m getting a set of new OEM PR3(USDM B16) pistons and was wondering if those pistons and wrist pins will fit, with no modification, on an LS rod. I know people have done it before, I’m just not sure if they used different wrist pins or had to do some machining to either piston or rod. I’ve read Type R pistons need to be shaved or something to fit on the LS rod. I just don’t want any surprises when I take it to the machine shop. Which brings up another question, since I’m going to be taking all the parts to the machine shop what exactly should I ask they do? For one I know I’ll be asking for the cylinders to be bored .25 over but as far as balancing and stuff like that are there any suggestions? I’ll be clueless at a machine shop and I don’t wanna get taken advantage of with them selling me useless work.
Also all new piston rings, bearings, rod bolts, oil pump, water pump and gaskets will be used. Anthing else I’m leaving out?
if you got money then get the crankshaft micropolished and knife edged, ur head port & polished, and if u have ur IM already then get the head to match the runner side so ur gettin the full efftect of that IM. Get the Throttle body bored out to match ur IM also. 5 angle valve job and that should cover the basics…get u a good start to ur build :bowthank:
Hey YeYo
Props for staying non vtec. Lots of people opt out for the vtec head which is cool but it’s also cool to stay non vtec.
The pr3’s will fit on the LS rods no problem. No machining required.
You should have the rods shot peened and balanced at the same time as having the pistons put on the rods. As well the ARP rod bolts your having installed may require the rod to have to be machined, no big deal they should be able to do that at low cost.
I’d recommend the micropolishing of the crank.
How extensively you want to go with your build and how much money you have will determine how far to go.
The knife edged crank is good but will be costly. The micropolishing is about all i’d do for a mild street build.
You’ll have them overbore and hone your cylinders. They may ask for the new pistons as well when bore/honing.
You can have them check the specs on the deck of your block; may need to be decked a little;and better to do now then to find out your cylinder head won’t seal properly because you deck is uneven after it’s in the car.
Same with the head, make sure it’s within spec. May need to have a slight mill to true it up.
The port matching is good. A valve job is the best bang for your buck. A good valve job and replace your valve seals. Hot tank everything.
Should be good with that. If you want to go more extensive with the knife edging and port and polishing then you’ll be kicking out alot more cash.
Hope that helps, good luck on the build. Those pistons will give you a good CR to work with. Some brian crower stage II’s or crower 403’s or 404’s and you’ll make some good power and torque.
Thanks for advice guys. I’ll defintely be taking it into consideration when I get all the stuff together and head to the machine shop. Now my only problem would be to find a good machine shop in NJ or at least the tri state area.