I need help on explaining why it’s more cost effective to do an LS/VTEC swap versus a B18C1 or C5 swap. Check this out the thread:
http://www.albertacars.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=877
Keep in mind the prices are in CDN dollars. Thanks!
If you’re doing it right, it’s not more cost effective!
Really? Compared to a GSR or an ITR swap?
I remember reading an article in Import Tuner where a guy got an LS?VTEC installed into his Civic and the cost came out a lot cheaper than an ITR engine.
Oh poo…
Look at it this way I just did a l/s v-tech engine costed :
ECU 200.00
B16a Head 250.00
SRP pistons 400.00
Shot peen rods 50.00
Arp bolts for rods 35.00
Arp head bolts 110.00
Hone and deck block 250.00
resurface flywheel 40.00
Gsr Cams 150.00
Head gasket 50.00
exhaust gasket 20.00
drill and tap head for v-tech 90.00
v-tech oil line with fittings 100.00
gsr oil pump 110.00
cam seals 20.00
b16a distributor 150.00 or GSR 250.00
it cost’s about 1800 to 2300 to build it right depending on what mods you want to do and parts you want to change
now gsr swaps are going to cost about 3000.00 to 3500.00
Type R 4000.00 to 5500.00
so lsvtech is cheaper unless you can find a awesome deal on a gsr swap.
They are out there but you need to have money ready to go get it. you can probaly get the price down on the ls/vtech if you shop for deals
US Dollars
peace out man
Originally posted by prowler187
[B]Look at it this way I just did a l/s v-tech engine costed :
ECU 200.00
B16a Head 250.00
SRP pistons 400.00
Shot peen rods 50.00
Arp bolts for rods 35.00
Arp head bolts 110.00
Hone and deck block 250.00
resurface flywheel 40.00
Gsr Cams 150.00
Head gasket 50.00
exhaust gasket 20.00
drill and tap head for v-tech 90.00
v-tech oil line with fittings 100.00
gsr oil pump 110.00
cam seals 20.00
b16a distributor 150.00 or GSR 250.00
it cost’s about 1800 to 2300 to build it right depending on what mods you want to do and parts you want to change
now gsr swaps are going to cost about 3000.00 to 3500.00
Type R 4000.00 to 5500.00
so lsvtech is cheaper unless you can find a awesome deal on a gsr swap.
They are out there but you need to have money ready to go get it. you can probaly get the price down on the ls/vtech if you shop for deals
US Dollars
peace out man [/B]
First of all, stop the “v-tech” thing, it’s vtec.
You miss some parts if you are talking about do it right.
- balance the crank assem., pistons and rods
- vtec water pump
- vtec timing belt
- block girdle (if you r using the girdle, you also need B18C oil pick-up, baffle and oil pan)
- new bearings
- Intake manifold
- gasket (oil pan, intake manifold, oil pick-up…)
- B16A cable tranny
- header (if you have stock exhaust manifold now)
That’s all I can think of for now… Someone else fill the rest.
Don’t get upset over the vtech spelling it’s just a little joke man!
Err… ok.
How about this…
A B16 long block is $500 can. This includes a distrbutor, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, vtec water pump (not needed when doing a B20 vtec).
All the other things you (DNA) mentioned are things that you should do on ANY swap or rebuilt… not just ls/vtec, if you are talking about doing it right…:rolleyes:
Damn… if you are building ANY engine, you should do all these things… does everyone do ANY of them (save for MAYBE the timing belt) when they swap in a 13 year old B16.
I assure you that most people do not bother…
But for some reason, all of these things become such a necessity when building an ls/vtec, that otherwise, people will have you believe that it will not last more than a week…
:rolleyes:
Give me a break.
You say “B16A cable tranny”… is that only necessary to build a quick ls/vtec? Sorry mate… if you want a quick n/a B series powered car, you’ll need one FULL STOP. Regardless if its a ls/vtec or B20, or straight B18A/B…
-Thomas
Slap a vtec head w/ just about $800 for new bearings, gsr-pumps(oil, fuel etc) and a few other things. JUST DON’T freaking rev to 8k! Now that cost effective if you ask me. You will get more torque than gs-r’s and b16a(a lot more) and pretty good top end. It really depends if you want a daily driven car w/ sum weekend fun or a monster. If you want all out ls/vtec monster, you’re going to have to spend some serious cash…about 6k.
Vtec water pump isn’t needed.
Originally posted by brekekex
[B]Err… ok.
How about this…
A B16 long block is $500 can. This includes a distrbutor, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, vtec water pump (not needed when doing a B20 vtec).
All the other things you (DNA) mentioned are things that you should do on ANY swap or rebuilt… not just ls/vtec, if you are talking about doing it right…:rolleyes:
Damn… if you are building ANY engine, you should do all these things… does everyone do ANY of them (save for MAYBE the timing belt) when they swap in a 13 year old B16.
I assure you that most people do not bother…
But for some reason, all of these things become such a necessity when building an ls/vtec, that otherwise, people will have you believe that it will not last more than a week…
:rolleyes:
Give me a break.
You say “B16A cable tranny”… is that only necessary to build a quick ls/vtec? Sorry mate… if you want a quick n/a B series powered car, you’ll need one FULL STOP. Regardless if its a ls/vtec or B20, or straight B18A/B…
-Thomas [/B]
God damn it. I just tried to help out. I didn’t say you shouldn’t do this and that for other set up or build up. You give me a break.
Parts wise here’s a comparison: labor for install in the car not included.
Type R motor with trans, ECU, etc everything you need to do a swap $5500
LS/VTEC: the way I build them for as a package.
- LS Block
- B16 head w/B16 manifold
- B16 trans/cable
- New HD pressure plate/ 6 puck sprung clutch
- ARP head studs
- New Head, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold gaskets
- New timing belt
- New GSR oil pump
- CTR pistons
- New rings
- New bearings
- Labor for machining block/balance
- Labor for assembly of block
- Tapping the B16 head for LS/v conversion
- Earls steel braid and fittings for the oil lines
- DC JDM 4-1 Ceramic header
- AEM cam gears
- B16 ECU
- Distributor
- New distributor cap
- New NGK spark plug wires
- new spark plugs
- Clutchmasters flywheel
- ITR intake and exhaust cam
- Cam seals
All for $4950
I think the LS/VTEC becomes a much more cost efficient setup. The performance will be similar to the type R. You get more part for your money. everything is redone as far as maintenance stuff such as timing belt and gaskets. and this is all installed in the motor. except the header.
Wil www.exospeed.com [Exospeed webstore debuts in mid january]
crex22@exospeed.com
Thanks for your help guys 
It’s all cool now. Alot of people still think the idea is dumb and a waste of time and money where I live. I’m still gonna do it though… I’ll pretty much be the first and only one in my area. I guess we’ll wait and see
not to forget the obvious - when the ls/v is done “right”, its almost a brand new motor. The gsr or type R will have miles on it and it probably had the crap driven out of it too. Can’t put $$ on that but its got to be worth somthing.
d
good point
brekekex
where can you get a b16a longblock for 500 in toronto
would you recomend any shops in toronto that know what they r doing
thanks
Ok let me try a swipe at it…
Here is what I think…TRUE a good well built LS/Vtec can become extremely costly (even more so compared to a Type-R)…you all want to know why?
That’s because all you are goin crazy with the super high performance parts as if thy’re free. Most people that do the Type-R/GSR just bolts in the damn motor. Those who do the L/Vtec gets everything that they HEAR are good from everyone else…the cams, pistons, shotpeen this, polish that, replace this…blah blah blah…you guys get the drift (I hope)
This is the only reason that it cost so damn much (I did the same with mine L/Vtec)…those who built and install the L/Vtec has the mentality that “Well, since the motor is already apart I should do this…”
To have a well functionable (daily-driven) L/Vtec, I think you only need:
-to change all the seals, gaskets, and bearings (especially the crank bearings).
-buy a complete b16a block and take everything out of it (pistons, oil pump, head, ecu tranny…) should save alot then to buy it seperate. I bought a complete b16 for $550
-B18a timing belt and water pump works for me.
-I spend the money that I would have saved on labor in high perfromance parts.
One final word of advice…NO BLOCKGUARD…
GL
Ken
ExospeedAM
ExospeedAM, You ever built a completely stock ls/v? As in no upgraded performance parts beyond the b16a head and ECU? I’m still trying to figure out how much power one will put down completely stock. I’ve extrapolated that the hp curve looks like it drops off by about 7.5K; i’m curious to know what kind of power it will make even if you didn’t rev it past the stock LS redline.
d