LS/Vtec - headbolt? & more

ASSISTANCE Hybrids & Advanced Aftermarket Engine Performance
1

ok so I picked up a jdm b16a head, stamped 91 and I am putting on my 91LS. I have had the head machined, minor milling to make it flat.

what head bolts do I need? I see on ARP home page catalog → http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
← I can get studs, but there is 4 different part numbers for honda B-series motors, (b18a1, b18c1, b16a, and b20b w/b16a head)

or what if I just wanted to use OEM head bolts? what motor should I order parts for?

also what timing belt do I need? I was told any b16 will do, can I just get a timing belt kit and waterpump for a 99 Civic Si? or should I get for a 94-95 DOHC V-tec Del Sol? 93-95 GS-R?

2

you need to search, there are a ton of LS/VTEC threads.

stop talking to whoever told you that a b16 timing belt will work, because it won’t. Head bolts/studs and timing belt/water pump need to be sourced from a GSR.

3

I have searched, thrugh many threads that end in people saying search, many more threads debating the reliability of the ls/vtec, dateing back to 2002, but nothing specfic to exactly what bolts to use.

I have seen people say to use GSR parts, in the link above the only GSR head studs are for a b18c1, is that correct for a b16a head going on a b18a block?
same with the timing belt kit, ok find GSR parts, can I assume you mean a 93 1.7 or will any b18c GSR will do. The DOHC Del Sol parts will not fit?

I enjoy the site, come and read / research / search often, I hardly ever post. If anyone has actually done this swap themselves, please let me know what parts you used, I’ve had enough “educated” guesses. Thanks guys.

4

:search:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89858&highlight=lsvtec+headstuds

5

im telling you what to use because i’ve done the build and swap myself already. I sourced all of my GSR parts from a gen 3 GSR. You can’t use those sel sol parts because the deck height is shorter for a b16 than it is for a b18, therefore bolts and timing belt will be too short. the b18c has the correct deck and head height. once you move to the gsr timing belt, you need to get a water pump with the correct number of teeth to match

Heres my thread detailing my build. Unfortunately the account i had hosting the pictures is now disabled, however i can email those to you if you want them.

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154505&highlight=basic+ls%2Fvtec

6

Yes you need the B18C1 bolts or studs. Personally I like the studs. It helps align the head properly as you are installing it. Very useful if you ever have to remove the head while the engine is in the car.

7

lsteg!

Can you send me your pictures as well? i am fascinated with this and have considered doing the exact same built myself. It will be my first build but 2nd motor swap and i think your pictures will help.

TimothyGamble@comcast.net

Thanks
Tim

8

Thanks for all the feedback guys,

I did get the ARP vtec studs, I used the vtec headgasket that came with the Golden Eagle kit, the stock LS gasket will not fit over the GE dowels. I have finished the swap, drove my car for the first time today. No vtec though**

I used a JDM 91 PR3 1.6 head & intake manifold, JDM vtec solenoid, GE full kit, liquid teflon for thread seal (I hate teflon tape on oil lines) stock LS distributor after hacking a leg off, now only one bolt lines up to hold it in place. Re-using old LS timing belt & waterpump for the moment, I couldn’t get the crank nut or pully off with the tools I had.

I had a few small oil leaks, have most of them taken care of (had to RTV the sandwitch plate to the block)

                      ----WARNING!!! ELECTRICAL!!!----

**The car wouldn’t start!!! car is a 91 LS 5spd
after trying a few different things, swaping a obd1 §§§§§ (T42), which also needed a leg grinded to fit next to the solenoid. Confirm getting spark & fuel, check base timing and the white mark is a degree off when cams are lined up (OEM pr3 cam gears). But its not enough to be a full tooth off.

-I am using a p28 ecu with a skunk2 chip(4.8k vtec) and I know its not a great tune, was only going to be temp. untill I get dyno tuning. I tested the ecu in a 93 GSR, it started the car, idled ok, drove fine, vtec was fully engaged by 5k, which is earler then his stock 1.7 crossover.

-Using a jumper harness I found off Cregslist it was used and did not come with instructions. After searching the net I was able to find a company that sold a obd0->obd1 jumper that matched the single 12 pin connector wire colors. I used 7 of the 12 wires, 4 went to oxygen sensor, 2 went to vtec pressure, 1 for solenoid, there are 5 left, 2 are used to pull codes by jumping, 2 go to a ITR manifold, and 1 for a knock sensor.

ok so even if I screwed up all the wiring, or I found the wrong instructions, these instructions & harness have 2 red power wires and 3 black ground wires, instructions don’t specify which goes where. But thats not the point. None of those sensors would prevent the car from starting or even idle or drive correct?

after 3 days of scratching my head and swapping dizzys, checking spark, ect, ect… I plugged my old stock LS ecu back into my wireing harness. car fired right up, idle is nice 750, revs up fine, needs a valve adjustment but is still quieter than I ever got my solid lifer LS, that thing alwase ticked.

ok so if the p28 is good (I will re-test), and the engine is all together fine, what is the problem? bad jumper harness? the p28 need to see a obd1 §§§§§? Was I supposed to do anything to my fuel injector resistor block? I’m using my stock LS fuel rail & injectors,

Thanks for everyting guys!! will keep updating what I figure out.

ps. I baselined my car on a dyno at school befor the swap, 3rd gear 122hp / 117ft-lb all stock exceped for a open air box and zip-tye’s. after everything is strait I will dyno again.

9

If you take a look at my car in the “gallery”, there is a picture of my engine showing the ARP studs.

10

If you are using your 91 injectors, they use a resistor box. OBD1 injectors do not use a resistor box. Frankly I don’t know if this is an issue for you. If the ECU is an OBD1 model, then I would think you need to convert to the newer injectors and do away with the resistor box. Don’t act on what I have said here because I am not sure if this is correct. It is definitely an issue to resolve.