Hey guys anyone with LS Vtec experience can you answer these questions for me?
Did u do move the dowels and plug that oil hole yourself or did u have it all done at the machine shop?
Did anyone do the swap and not re-ring or swap pistons? (I’d like to avoid pulling the engine block to get it honed for new rings)
What was your final cost?
As far as activating the VTEC, I heard u use another ecu…does this ecu completely replace the current one? If not a ecu can you use a Vtec Controller such as field’s or apex’i’s?
Thanks
jim
as far as the conversion i was told by many people to get a machine shop to do it. and the bottom end should be rebuilt, ive heard stories from alot of people that didnt and regret it alot in the long run. just wondering if ur were gonna do the rebuild cause it seems to be a wise choise
?1) I did it myself on a drill press
?2)No I didnt swap or re ring
?3)Well I paid $600 shipped for my b16 (to use the head) and at first I used an auto meter rpm activated switch and relay box to activate the vtec. That way sucks because it does not have the correct fuel and timing maps. Now Im using a Zdyne reprogramed stock ecu with the one wire conversion and pr3 fuel and timing maps. Im having problems with it running lean at idle but I plan on upgrading the ecu to Zdynes gold conversion soon. If your car is a 90-91 you can use a pr3 or pwo which will replace your existing ecu or you can check out Zdyne @ www.zdyne.com . As far as cost I could have done it cheaper but I wanted the b16 block too (I have plans for it later). I could have probably done it for $500-$900. But if you have a 92-93 you can use a 92-95 and maybe a 96 gsr ecu. Not sure on the 96 tho. Im also not sure if you can just use a vtec cont. HTH. Let me know if you have any more ?s. Later.
Aron
IDK about the bottom end rebuild. My engine burns almost no oil and compression and leak down tests are giving great results. Which is way I don’t know if I really need to rebuild the engine. I figure as long as I keep the rev limiter where it is or pretty damn close (400 rpm at most), the only difference would be in the vtec cams which engage at higher rpms. The compression is the same if not close, and I won’t be revving any higher to put anymore stress on that weak r/s ratio. Well if anyone else has got opinions or ideas let me know as this project is gonna start after christmas!
Thanks
Jim