I’ve been researching a lot into doing a b16 head on my LS block (I have a b18a1, looking to eventually go the way of N/A LS/Vtec), and the work that goes into it, but a few gen2 questions keep popping up. I thought of posting on another forum, but there are always flamers who will tell you to go sort through 300 pages of thread topics to find the answer. I don’t exactly have a lot of time on my hands to just sort through that much stuff, but I have looked for answers to these questions.
The first is simple enough. If I go with a b16a1 or b16a2 head, (thinking of size/length) will I need a custom or specialized timing belt, or is the timing belt that is built for the LS block be adequate?
Second: If I went with a b16a2 head, would I have to convert from OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2?
Third: There’s a dozen opinions on head gaskets, block guards, and sleeves. If I plan to keep the motor N/A, is there any need to modify the block to accommodate the higher piston speed?
Fourth: I know pistons/rods will probably have to be changed out, but what about the crank and bearings? Will ITR bearings work, or are there better bearings out there for an LS/Vtec? It is possible, worth the cost, or even necessary to attempt to swap the crank for an ITR?
The final question has nothing to do with any of that.^ :ot: However, I figured I’d wrap it all up in one post.
When I changed out the timing belt, I noticed the rear plastic casing (that presses against the head/block) was warped and would not go into the other timing cover pieces like it should. Is this a potential problem for the timing belt or the cam gears (it presses against the cam gears just a bit.), or what? I can post pictures eventually if someone needs more specifics on this one.
1-the timing belt you choose depends on what water pump you use. it’s recommended to use a vtec water pump which in that case you would need a vtec timing belt. gsr or type-r. b16a is too short. if you use the ls water pump then you use the ls timing belt.
2-re use all your obd0 or obd1 sensors and you’ll be fine. depends what ecu you plan on using.
3- no modification is required if staying n/a. headgasket depends on where you place your dowel pins. if you drill the block you use the vtec headgasket and if you drill the head you use the ls headgasket. if you buy aftermarket dowel pins usually you use a ls headgasket.
4- crank stays stock and you use ls crank bearings.
as long as the plastic isn’t rubbing on the belt you shouldn’t have any problems.
I am building an ls vtec right now. I had it in the car and the first cyl. went so I pulled it out and did a rebuild but added some goodies. The question I have is also with question 1. MY timing belt is pretty loose but it looks somewhat new. I was thinking about buying a new one but I’m not sure what pump I have. I bought an ls vtec yrs ago already done and it came with it. Is there any way I can tell what kind it is. How many teeth should it have? Thanks
redtegra prettymuch summed everything up. Its worth going with the vtec water pump and the GSR/ITR belt… It helps with coolant flow at higher RPM. (Preventing cavitation)
The cylinder sleeves can stay stock, no need to sleeve unless you’re going for a huge bore or very high cylinder pressures (boost). Always use an OEM head gasket, and it is better to use the vtec (GSR or B16) gasket… get the Golden Eagle dowel kit and you wont have to do any drilling or anything.
If you put a Type-R crank in an LSVtec motor, you’d actually be DE-stroking your motor… You would technically lose power.
Timing belt must be VTEC model not because of the water pump but because of the difference in height of the VTEC head. Its taller so the belt is slightly larger. Water pump can be either. If you plan to run at high RPM, then the VTEC water pump is better because it runs at a slower speed to prevent cavitation. The only reason the VTEC water pump has more teeth is because its slightly larger in diameter so it will run more slowly at a given RPM than would the non VTEC pump. Its a good idea to change the pump anyway so it makes sense to go with the VTEC model.
The plastic piece you are talking about at the end of your post has to be changed. The VTEC piece is different so your non VTEC plastic will not fit. In fact the only one of them on the end of the engine that does work is the bottom one that goes on the crankshaft. The rest of them, front or back must be from a VTEC model engine. It can be from any of the engines B17, B18c/c1/c5. If you end up buying them, I suggest buying the top one for a B17. The slots at the top for the cams are horseshoe shaped allowing the cams to be removed easily with the plastic in place. The later model 94-01 plastic piece is circular at the top, meaning the cams must be slid out sideways which is much less convenient and even a pain in the ass. Some guys forget about using the plastic totally. I would not recommend that because the plastic does a good job keeping moisture and dust from attacking the timing belt.
I used my old timing belt. It is pretty much new but couldn’t figure out how to take the slack out of it. I figured it out and it works fine. I have the 22 tooth pump and I think that is the gsr one. I’ve used it on my other ls vtec and worked fine
Wow, got this question answered like 3 months ago and someone revived the thread. :crazy:
LOL
I’m probably going b20 with the intention to turbo at a later date, no ls/vtec for me until a later time. Might go with a sleeved b20 as a bottom end and go b20/vtec, should I decide to sink money into it.
Thus, this question is irrelevant to me, as I’ve gone another direction.