make your own in-line fuel pressure gauge

this is a how-to on making your own fuel pressure gauge. it sits inline with the fuel-in line between the fuel filter on the firewall, and the passenger side of the fuel rail. you basically get this gauge, some fittings, some teflon tape, clamps, and some cutters, or strong scissors, then you connect this guage to the T fitting. it’s optional to get a new fuel line incase you dont want it anymore, or as a backup.

things you’ll need

  • 0 - 60 psi gauge from kragen, or any auto parts store. - less then 10 bucks (monkey grip)

  • fittings to put the gauge inline with the fuel-in line between fuel filter, and the fuel rail - about 5 bucks all together. from “the home depot”

(one) T fitting -
“watts” A-704
female pipe tee

(two) adapters -
“watts” A-192B
1M" X 1/8"
I.D. hose barb to MIP adapter

  • teflon tape

  • 4 small hose clamps

  • oem fuel line (optional incase backup)

  • tools (cutters/scissors, screwdriver, adjustable wrenches)

after you get everything… then here’s what you do…

  1. release pressure in your lines, remove your fuel cap…

  2. time to setup the intersection.
    use a wrench, pliers, or anything to grip onto the tube at the bottom of the pressure gauge. then with your hand and the wrench, take the pressure gauge apart from the adapter that allows you to use the guage with the tire valve.

  3. get the T, then get the two fittings. use teflon tape on the threads. make sure not to use too much, and apply it opposite of the threads. apply it tight.

  4. put the two fittings on the end sides of the T fitting. tighten them up. (dunno how tight. i just did until i thought it would seal fine…

  5. get the gauge, apply teflon tape onto the threads in reverse thread. same as the fittings. then tighten it onto the top of the T fitting. try tightening it until you can look at the T, with the guage facing you.

  6. disconnect your battery, the negative… just to be safe while working with fuel.

  7. get rags, napkins, shop rags, etc… pile some under the fuel line. (removing your intake should clear up some room…) then think about where you want the gauge to sit… then cut the line there…

  8. the hose will not be super tight onto the fittings, so it’ll be good to double clamp the lines at each fitting side.

  9. double check the tightness of the clamps… they will be holding up an average of 40psi…

  10. after everything is almost done, close up… the fuel cap that is…

  11. hook up the battery, then get in the car… turn the car to the “on” position. then check the gauge if your getting pressure through…

  12. make sure you set your ecu correctly… cause it will try to learn new air/fuel readings…

i think that’s about it… and the pictures are not hosted by anyone else but g2ic right now, so if someone has a server, please try to upload them, and host them for us. thanks.

any questions. feel free to ask… i’ll get pics of the guage in my car as soon as i can… so far, about a month of it on there… it has been fine from any leaks, and it has given me good readings… but for some reason… my fuel pressure drops qucker then normal after i drive… so i might need to tighten up the clamps more…



archive that… i mean archive him… or uhh archivethings? DOH! ok i got it… archivethis :crazy:


good show tegpunk. :up:

edit: here’s the pics hosted by me. i’ll try not to delete 'em. :wink:

good job man, but should there be a better gauge then a air pressure one? would it work with any other type of gauges? i have a gauge that reads in psi too, so as long as it in between the line and it’s not leaking it should be fine then right?

i think almost any gauge that reads PSI and has the right thread pitch will be fine, as long as it is sealed up correctly.

wow that is cool!
how much did the whole parts cost and how long

the prices are located in the first post. you hafta read. :stuck_out_tongue:

as for how long, time will most likely vary. i guess it all depends on how difficult it is for you to screw, cut, and clamp. :shrug: :smiley:

hahaha the gauge i had turned out to be the B&M one… looks like you can get a banjo (sp?) bolt and a 90 degree elbow and then put the gauge on it. then bolt it to the fuel filter. thats what the B&M one looks like.

ok, ima delete the pictures that i have on g2ic… looks like mark is going to host them for now. i’ll have the pics saved onto my computer, so in any case that mark’s uploads go away, feel free to email me for pics…

good job Kev. :clap:

hm i wonder if there is any chance of corrosion from the hot gasoline. someone ask B&M if their internals are ss or nothing special…

never thought about it… i guess i’ll check next month or sumthin…

after running it for about a month or so… i took it apart again when i pulled the motor apart… didnt seem like anything was building up in there… either it wont, or it wont until a long period of time…